Ilfracombe’s Tunnels Beaches are now a prime wedding venue, as GILL HEAVENS discovers

There is nothing new about the Tunnels Beaches in Ilfracombe; in fact they have been a tourist attraction for almost two centuries. What is new is that over the last few years The Tunnels have been given a new lease of life and been transported, in all the best possible ways, into the 21st century.

At the beginning of the 19th century Ilfracombe was becoming a fashionable holiday destination and swimming was an increasingly popular pastime. The stunning Crewkhorne Cove would make an ideal bathing spot if only access could be improved. This was no simple undertaking, several tunnels needed to be carved through the North Devon cliff to allow passage to the bay below. So with typical 19th century resolve hundreds of Welsh miners were imported to excavate six tunnels and construct three separate bathing pools. The cove was renamed Tunnels Beaches and our hero was born.

The rocky coast in this part of Devon has excellent water quality; the steep cliffs act as a barrier to contamination, the result being unrivalled water clarity. There is excellent rock pooling in this area and perfect conditions for kayakers. It is also a wildlife hot spot with peregrines, porpoises and seals. The surviving tidal pool, refreshed by the sea twice daily, provides a safe haven for young children and is also ideal for adult swimming.

Fast forward two centuries and we have a similar tale of enterprise. Jamie and Zoe McLintock purchased the beaches from Zoe’s parents in 2001; including a beach shop, a bathhouse in need of renovation and storage sheds. This was not as reckless as it might sound; they had some favourable talents to bring to this daunting project. The tunnels had been in Zoe’s family for two generations and she is a trained graphic designer, Jamie has a business degree and worked as a marketing consultant. Most importantly they had enthusiasm and could see the potential.

It all started positively, the McLintock’s first full season was a sunny one; and then the rain began. After several wet summers they realised that in order to survive they would have to diversify and they set about creating the Courtyard Building. The brief was to create somewhere for children to play in a safe environment and for adults to get a decent meal in pleasant surroundings, indoors and out. Over the winter of 2007/2008 they built the beautiful weather boarded oak-framed building, which certainly fulfils the brief, guarded by a spectacular pirate play ship.

There was more change to come. In 2010 the construction of the bespoke wedding venue commenced, in a prime position overlooking the Men’s Beach. This new facility, with its curved design elegantly embracing the cliff behind, is cantilevered to preserve the spectacular view. Located in the arms of a tranquil bay, with gourmet barbeques and designer deckchairs; secluded except for the odd bull seal attracted by the music provided by an integral sound system. It is not hard to understand why this venue is proving so popular. What is ironic is that a place originally so intent on keeping the sexes apart - mixed bathing was not introduced until 1905 - is now a prime marriage location!

In 1836 the Ilfracombe Sea Bathing Company built a bathhouse for the local population, fed from the bay below by use of a wood fired boiler. Bathing in sea water was encouraged at this time, mainly for reasons of health and hygiene as opposed to pleasure (the Victorians seldom encouraged pleasure!) The obvious next step was to renovate this building. So under the watchful eye of the Listed Buildings Officer, Zoe and Jamie have created a characterful nine bedroom house for both wedding guests and private use.

Jamie has spent many hours researching the site’s history including the antics of Professor Harry Parker. A champion swimmer and eccentric, he gave exhibitions of “ornamental swimming” in the 1890’s. Harry Parker Junior’s programme included imitating an octopus, smoking under water and submerged revolver shooting, all rounded off with a little escapology.

The Tunnels are steeped in history, timelessly beautiful, sensitively developed, with something for everyone to enjoy whatever our weather may throw at us.