Doc Martin is about to hang up his stethoscope. What will it mean for the people of Port Isaac, home to this hit television series for 18 years?
'Here they come,' says John Brown, founder of Port Isaac Tours. 'Follow me.'
We walk down to St Endellion car park where a coach load of US tourists has just pulled in.
The passengers stepping off today have travelled from all over America, including Texas, Kansas, Connecticut and Indiana, united by one common goal – to see Doc Martin’s village.
Port Isaac (or Portwenn as it’s called in the TV series) has been the beautiful backdrop for the hit ITV drama since 2004.
The long running series, which stars Martin Clunes as grumpy medic Dr Martin Ellingham, is watched by loyal fans in 138 countries.
They come to Port Isaac in their thousands each year, often timing their break to coincide with filming schedules or the chance to be an extra. Many, however, just want to be here.
'Oh my gosh - I feel like I’m living in some kind of dream world!' says US fan Nancy VanArendonk, slowly surveying the rugged Cornish cove she has seen so many times on her TV screen. 'Where I come from in Indiana, all we got is corn and soya beans. I can’t believe I’m stood here in Doc Martin’s home,' she adds, admitting the main reason she watches is for the scenery. 'Oh, it’s just incredible...'
Port Isaac’s global fame has seen the quaint little fishing village adapt and thrive, with cafes, restaurants and shops making the most of the constantly passing trade.
'It’s done wonders for the village, no doubt about it,' says Teri-Louise Grills, who works in the Lazy Days café in New Road, home to ‘Bert’s Bench’, a seat of honour for actor Ian McNeice (Bert Large). 'We wouldn’t get customers coming from all over the world, otherwise.
'I used to work in the fudge shop down in town and we’d get American fans ringing up to ask for the filming schedule.'
Café owner Debbie Singer tells me about the ‘Clunatics’, a group of women who come over from Washington whenever they can.
They are said to have monthly meetings about the show and know exactly which colour tie Doc Martin wears in which series.
'People just love it,' adds Debbie. 'You should see it here on filming days.'
Of course, being in the limelight is not for everyone. Locals not involved in the tourist trade find it tough to have their home turf invaded by (albeit apparently very polite and thoughtful) television crews every other year.
Road closures and diversions, plus legions of fans blindly following sat navs down Port Isaac’s narrow streets can be disruptive.
But for most residents, Doc Martin is simply part of life.
'The crew often come in here for coffee and cakes,' says Wes Hamilton, owner of May Contain Nuts cafe in Fore Street. 'I get on with them really well,' she says, adding that she appeared as an extra in series seven. She shows me a polaroid picture hanging behind the counter of her with Louisa (Caroline Catz) and Ruth (Eileen Atkins).
On the other side of the shop, shelves are filled with Doc Martin memorabilia, including mugs, keyrings and coasters.
'It brings people here, no doubt about that,' says Wes. 'And it’s been great for my daughter,' she says, talking about 20-year-old Lillie who studied media at college and did work experience with the crew before recently getting a job with them as a runner. 'She’s grown up with it being filmed here and now she’s working on it.'
Doc Martin is set to air its final series this month, but there’s a belief here that the legacy of this programme will live on. ('There are still Last of the Summer Wine tours in Holmfirth,' as one local observer pointed out).
Fans will visit Port Isaac, long after the cameras have stopped rolling because of the extraordinary reach of this programme. Besides, there’s a Christmas special and possibly a documentary planned
'Oh, yes, this his will carry on for a long time yet,' says our tour guide and lifelong Port Isaac resident John (a star in his own right. He’s a member of the famous folk group Fisherman’s Friends). He’s just received confirmation of a booking for next year of three coaches of Icelandic tourists. 'They come here from all over the world.'
'Oh wow, is this the pharmacy?' asks one starstruck US tour member as we approach Fore Street.
'Not yet, I’ll tell you when we get there,' says John. 'For now, I want you to see this,' he says, leading the group towards the house where hypochondriac Portwenn resident and pigeon fancier Malcolm Rayner (Christopher Fairbank) developed a lung infection, caused by a reaction to the faeces of his beloved birds (series six, episode six).
After repeating this a couple of times to some stragglers at the back, John directs them towards a row of cottages at the top of Fore Street. Canadian Terrace was built towards the end of the 19th century to commemorate the return of an emigrant from Canada.
'Port Isaac is not just Doc Martin,' former lobster fisherman John tells me in a quiet moment off-set. 'There’s a lot of history here and I try to include that on the tours whenever I can. People are always interested.'
With that, it’s onwards and upwards towards Roscarrock Hill and Fern Cottage, better known as Doc Martin’s home and surgery and currently on the market with John Bray Estates for £1,150,000.
John informs his group in case there are any takers. That would be quite some souvenir, but I wouldn’t put it past this lot. Some are already busy working out the exchange rate.
We part ways and I head back up a now very busy Fore Street. It’s full of different walks of life, languages and accents but if you listen very carefully, you can definitely hear the occasional mention of a Portwenn character.
You don’t have to like Doc Martin here, but it helps.
A home from home
Doc Martin’s cast and crew have been made to feel part of the community and they in turn have been good to their surrogate home.
Production company Buffalo Pictures makes regular contributions to Port Isaac’s village funds, used to support a range of local facilities. Actor Ian McNeice also regularly shakes a fundraising bucket for the local RNLI.
The boost to tourism in the area was recognised by Cornwall Tourism, which presented a special award to the Doc Martin team at a ceremony held at Truro Cathedral in 2019.
Live like the Doc
Fern Cottage, Doc Martin’s surgery and home in the series, is on the market with local firm John Bray Estates.
Managing partner Josephine Ashby says the property had received an ‘exceptional level of interest’ due to its landmark location.
The cottage’s previous owner, who wishes to remain anonymous, bought the building in 2013. He says: 'Initially I acquired the cottage as a second home but quickly realised I was a custodian of a significant national treasure and became its keeper.'
You can find out more and see inside the gorgeous cottage here.
