Proudly offbeat and quirky, full of history and a shopper's paradise to boot, Totnes is one of the county's must-visit towns, especially in the run up to the festive season.
Markets are a big deal in Totnes and they really go to town in the run-up to Christmas.
Festive markets and late-night shopping events take place throughout December, with good food, good shopping and a great atmosphere guaranteed in this must-visit place that really is one of a kind.
There’s a local joke that Totnes is twinned with Narnia. It even used to say that on the road signs as you came in before officials removed the highly unofficial slogans.
The South Devon town certainly is quirky but that’s just the way everyone likes it. Yes, there are shops selling crystals, fossils and world instruments (all in one shop, actually, Rhythm & Light in Fore Street) but there are also lots of useful high street staples, including three butchers, a fishmonger, greengrocers, bookshops, a stationery shop, plus loads of lovely cafés and delis.
It’s fiercely independent here. Residents famously campaigned against an application for a Costa Coffee back in 2012 and won. Today, there are a few chains but they’re definitely in the minority. As a result, Totnes is a fantastic place to mooch around a wonderful collection of shops you won’t find anywhere else for unusual artisan gifts, vintage finds or just a lovely sandwich.
But don’t let all the pretty things and tasty treats distract you from the incredible history of this medieval town. Totnes has a national reputation for its many notable buildings and monuments. You don’t have to walk far to see most of them either, in fact, you just have to look up to see the East Gate Arch or the detail in the Grade I-listed Elizabethan merchant’s house (home to Totnes Museum). Then there’s the guildhall and the imposing St Mary’s Church, with its fine red sandstone tower, topped by four pinnacles.
There’s always a great energy here, whether that’s the crystals or just the fact that people who live in Totnes really love their arty, alternative town where pretty much anything goes.
Totnes Christmas Markets and late-night shopping events take place on 6, 13 and 20 December. There’s also a free gnome trail for the kids.
FOOD & DRINK
Even on non-market days, Totnes is foodie heaven, with a fantastic range of cafes and restaurants doing interesting menus. Gather (Fore Street) showcases dishes using locally sourced and wild foraged ingredients from the area’s fields, shoreline, rivers and hedgerows.
Seeds 2 (High Street) serves wholesome and healthy vegetarian and vegan dishes, as well as handmade pastries, buns and cakes.
The Curator (The Plains) is a busy Italian coffee shop and community hub. Everyone likes to meet here for a speciality wood-roasted coffee and fresh Italian-baked treats, as well as a full brunch and lunch menu.
The Bull Inn (Rotherfold Square), an organic, ethical pub and hotel, serving seasonal menus, including small plates to share (or not to share).
For some serious soul food, head to Pie Street (High Street) for melt-in-the-mouth pastry and fillings. Pies are freshly made on the premises from local ingredients and a choice of five different gravies, buttery mash or beef dripping fried chips on the side.
Liquid refreshment-wise, there are some great pubs and bars in Totnes, too. If you’ve got the stamina, there’s a well-worn trail/stumble that includes the Albert Inn, the Steam Packet Inn and the Lord Nelson.
WHERE TO STAY
The obvious choice is centrally placed Royal Seven Stars Hotel (The Plains) housed in a seventeenth century inn. The Old Forge (Seymour Place) is equally atmospheric with ten en-suite bedrooms (many with their own outside garden patio) inside this 600-year-old stone building.
For B&Bs, the award-winning and family-run Four Seasons (Bridgetown) is a good choice, or the Bay Horse Inn (Cistern Street) has three welcoming double rooms above the pub.
There are some self-catering choices in the heart of the action, including Leechwell House (Leechwell Street) a beautifully renovated listed townhouse or try home from home, 1a Rowsells Lane, an unusual two-bedroom upside down house close to the river and a short two-minute walk to the town centre.
Nearby, you can stay at Dartington Hall, a medieval, Grade I-listed building which forms part of the 1,200-acre Dartington Estate. Also in Dartington, there’s the wonderful Cott Inn, one of the oldest thatched inns in Britain, featuring five boutique rooms, as well as some fine dining.
MORE TO DO
Brutus Stone: No trip to Totnes is complete without a visit to the Brutus Stone, found set into the pavement in Fore Street. The stone is meant to mark the spot where Trojan Prince, Brutus, disembarked from his ship. As he stepped ashore on to the stone he said: ‘Here I stand, and here I rest. The town shall be called Totnes.’
One of a kind: Totnes Castle is a classic Norman motte and bailey castle - a wooden or stone keep on a raised area of ground, called a motte and a walled courtyard or ‘bailey’. Totnes Castle is one of the best-preserved examples in England.
