Once the preserve of the rich or famous, hiring a private yacht is now the perfect – and affordable - way to explore the south of France
Intermittent flashes glint on the surface of the ocean as we slip away from the port of Marseille, leaving rows of bobbing boats behind. ‘I saw this yesterday, it’s fish jumping out of the water – they’re big, probably tuna,’ exclaims our skipper Eric.
This dreamy region in southern France seems to be rich in sea life of all kinds – along with athletic fish, that afternoon I also spot a dog on a paddle board and bronzed teenagers leaping enthusiastically from craggy cliffs into the inky blue water.
I’m on a 12 metre, four-cabin Lagoon 40 catamaran hired through SamBoat, a digital platform for boat rental. The boating equivalent of airbnb, and opening up the ocean for people who previously thought that private yachting was inaccessible or exclusively for the international jet set, it’s now possible to build your dream boating trip at a price that won’t reduce your bank manager to tears – even if you are a novice sailor.
With the freedom to choose which boat to hire, set your own schedule, decide where you want to go, and a skipper on hand (if you need one – you can drive the boat yourself if you have a license) to show you the best undiscovered spots, sailing is the pinnacle of ocean exploration; it’s quite literally a breath of fresh sea air, especially after the restrictions of the past couple of years.
While Eric steers the catamaran due south, we tuck into an alfresco lunch under the shade of the aft canopy, feasting on fresh baguettes – bought just before boarding from Marseille’s oldest bakery, La Four des Navettes – stuffed with buffalo mozzarella, tomatoes and basil.
Customers can either order groceries online before sailing as it’s self-catering and have them delivered to the boat, or bring food on themselves; we had preordered for out two-night mini cruise which took the stress out of shopping on arrival.
The region is famous for its calanques – steep-walled inlets comprised of limestone or granite –many of which are difficult to access except by boat. We drop anchor for a refreshing swim at the scenic Calanque de Morgiou, one of the biggest calanques between Marseille and the port of Cassis, which is to be our base for the night.
We arrive in Cassis just as the sun sets, and I instantly feel right at home in this incredibly picturesque harbour, which is flanked by pastel-coloured buildings, restaurants and bars.
Unlike its flashier Côte d’Azur neighbours, this popular Provençal fishing village is laidback, with a maze of pretty streets to explore –the marina is perfect for a spot of people watching, accompanied by a chilled aperitif.
We dine that evening on the terrace at the elegant La Presqu’ile restaurant, which is set on a pine tree-fringed peninsula overlooking the bay.
The town is famous for its wine so we opt for a crisp local rosé, Chateau de Fontcreuse, followed by an ocean-inspired menu featuring flavours of Provence – highlights include bluefin tuna gravlax style with coffee, apricots and sumac, and monkfish served with butter foam, white cabbage, red berries and wasabi.
The following morning, a healthy breakfast on the boat fuels us for the day before we set sail towards the Riou Archipelago. En route we pass the geological formation Eagle Cape (Cap de L’Aigle) and La Ciotat, a small town with a shipbuilding history that is still evident from the water.
We drop anchor adjacent to Riou Island, also known as ‘the island of birds.’ One of the largest islands in the archipelago, the sea is vivid turquoise and the limestone cliffs are teaming with birdlife: it’s clearly breeding season on the uninhabited island as we spot a number of juvenile gulls taking their first tentative steps into the water, watched over by attentive adults.
After a couple of hours lazing on the small, sandy beach, we while away the evening at anchor in the archipelago. It’s a chilled, low-key night as we dine on salmon, prawns and avocado, followed by pasta with cherry tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella and basil.
With yacht rock classics providing a fitting soundtrack, we wash it all down with a chilled bottle of Pouilly-Fumé, while a hazy sunset smudges the sky.
The following morning, conditions are perfect as we sail back to Marseille to disembark and enjoy a leisurely lunch before heading to the airport.
Boasting the biggest port in the country, this cosmopolitan city is an ideal pre or post cruise stopover with much to offer visitors – as well as being the gateway to Provence, it’s also blessed with 2,900 hours of sunshine throughout the year.
Our reservation is at La Table Du Fort in the old port which utilises local ingredients in its creative dishes: our spread includes an amuse bouche of courgette and mint puree, risotto with langoustines, and local speciality sea bass bouillabaisse with seasonal vegetables – this rustic stew, once called the ‘poor man’s’ soup, was originally made by Marseille fisherman.
With the temperature in the 30s, we spend much of the afternoon under the canopy at brasserie Cafe Simon, ordering Aperol Spritzes’ all round to help quench our thirsts in the searing Mediterranean heat.
Whether you choose to spend your time in Provence on the water, on land or a combination of both, this diverse region is, by all accounts, a feast for the senses: once you’ve had a taste you are sure to want to return.
The Details:
To book a boat rental or to find out more, visit samboat.com. Prices start from £100 a day.
