A tribute to pioneer Ethel Haythornthwaite, there are 95 ‘Ethels’ (hills – most of which are 400m above sea level)in the Peak District, all fabulously wonderful and unique in their own right. We list them all – and showcase the best along the way
The Peak District’s status as Britain’s first national park is a source of great local pride. So too are the rugged landscapes and landmarks that makes it the special place it undoubtedly is.
While no areas of Derbyshire or the Peak are designated as mountainous, there are nevertheless no fewer than 95 hills of varying shapes and sizes (but predominantly 400 metres-plus above sea level) which are, in many quarters, referred to as ‘Ethels’.
On the grand scheme of things, this labelling of 95 of the region’s most prominent and best-loved raised areas of land is a recent one.
It was in May 2021 that these hills were collectively named by the CPRE countryside charity in honour of Sheffield-born Ethel Haythornthwaite, a relentless environmental campaigner and a pioneer of the countryside movement, notably within the Peak District she was so passionate about.
The millions of visitors to the Peak each year have Ethel to thank in no small part for the freedoms they rightly enjoy on their outings. Ethel died in 1986 aged 92.
And so a phrase was coined – ‘bagging an Ethel’ – an evolution of ‘Peak bagging’ or ‘hill bagging’ where hikers attempt to reach and, if you’re competitively-minded ‘conquer’ collective summits – thus ticking them off a defined list (in this case, the 95 Ethels).
Many hills gain their prominence based on height, but this is not always the case when it comes to the Peak District.
While most, admittedly, would know that Kinder Scout offers the highest summit in the Peak, height doesn’t appear a significant factor in which of our hills people like to reach the summit of – with factors such as views, location and ease of access arguably more important.
None of Mam Tor, The Roaches, Chrome Hill, Parkhouse Hill, Parkhouse Hill or Thorpe Cloud – to name just six – appear in the top 20 in terms of elevation but are arguably among the most popular hills to visit.
Thorpe Cloud, in fact, sits 94th out of 95 in terms of height, reaching 287 metres above sea level.
An online list of all 95 Ethels exists, created by passionate walker Daniel Pomfret, where you can track your progress of ticking off Ethels and interact with likeminded walkers (ethels.uk).
Here, we have created a list, in height order, with a box to tick upon completion. Alternatively, why not tick off all those you have done in the past.
Wondering where to start? We’ve asked a number of passionate and experienced Peak District walkers their favourite Ethel and why.
Happy bagging – and do let us know how you get on throughout the year!
MY FAVOURITE ETHEL
Roly Smith: ‘What the Peak is all about’
Back Tor on Derwent Edge is one of my favourite Peak District hills. Looking east from its rocky, 529 m/1,735ft summit you can see the tower blocks of industrial Sheffield and west, across the Derwent Valley, the wild moorland heights of Kinder Scout and Bleaklow. To me, it somehow sums up what the Peak is all about.
Martin Whiteley: ‘Small but perfectly formed’
Corbar Hill is a relatively low but quite pronounced hill at the southern edge of Combs Moss, a peat-covered gritstone plateau north of Buxton. The summit sports both a trig point and a tall oak cross that was gifted to Buxton Catholics by the Duke of Devonshire in 1950. The view southwards is fantastic, with an impressive girdle of woodland running around the hillside above the town and typical White Peak scenery beyond.
Helen Moat: ‘A hugely atmospheric place’
So many to choose from, but I'd say Minninglow. First of all, I love the way it's so easily identified from many places in the Peak District (despite the many clumps of trees on the White Peak skyline) because of its unique inner and outer group of trees. Secondly, it's a hugely atmospheric place to sit in: You can almost sense the ghosts of our Neolithic, Bronze Age and Roman ancestors who utilised this site. Sit back, listen to the whisper of the trees and admire the Neolithic Chamber and Bronze Age bowl barrows.
Rachel Bolton: ‘One of the best views in the Peak’
Win Hill. Guiding our walk clients at Peak Walking Adventures as the morning mist clears to reveal one of the best views in the Peak is a joy. Whether it’s the steep ascent from Yorkshire bridge with my dog after the Covid lockdown ended or a starry night walk watching the fireworks in the distant valley, Win Hill is always a winner.
Gary Wallis: ‘A perfect place to watch a sunset’
Parkhouse Hill, for me, has it all and I've therefore chosen it as my favourite Ethel. It has a fascinating geology - once part of a coral reef in an ancient shallow sea. It’s a superb, exhilarating little ridge walk quite unique in the Peak and together with its neighbour, Chrome Hill, forms the celebrated ‘Dragon's Back’ walk. The hill is even more special as it was only relatively recently opened to the public to walk upon following the ‘Right to Roam’ legislation (2000). Finally, it is a photographer's dream and a perfect place to watch a sunset.
Mike Smith: ‘This conical hill emerges from an upland bowl’
My favourite ‘Ethel’ is Eccles Pike, not only because this conical hill emerges from an upland bowl just two miles from my home, but also because I was a member of the group responsible for the installation of a topograph that identifies all the features in the fabulous 360-degree panorama visible from the summit.
UNUSUAL NAMES
Many of our Ethels have logical and/or unsurprising names, but not all.
Some denote poignant nods to the past, others signify key events to have taken place there while the origin of some names remain a mystery to this day. Here are three such examples.
Lost Lad
Lost Lad is said to refer to a 13-year-old shepherd, Abraham Lowe, who lived in the lost village of Derwent, which now lies under Ladybower Reservoir.
One winter, with the village submerged in heavy snow, the young man was sent to round up sheep on the moorland to bring them back to shelter.
As the weather worsened, Abraham became lost, despite knowing the area well, and succumbed to hypothermia. His body was not found until the following spring.
Upon finding the body, shepherds noticed a slab of gritstone close by, where he had scratched the name ‘lost lad’ to mark his position.
Mount Famine
In the 17th and 18th century a number of Enclosure Acts were passed, making it far easier for once openly used land to be shut off by landowners.
Landowners would divide their land into segments and literally wall them off, giving them the opportunity to lease out specific plots of land to tenant farmers.
However, in places such as Mount Famine, found between the villages of Hayfield and Chinley, the land was often poor and/or unsuitable for growing crops, leading to the farmers and their families going hungry – hence the name.
Similarly named places exist elsewhere, such as Starvation Hill and Mount Misery in Dartmoor.
Sir William Hill
An intriguing name on the basis that there appears to be no cast-iron proof or evidence as to which particular William this hill, on Eyam Moor, is named after.
‘Just who was Sir William and why was he so important to have this unique claim to fame?’ mused Alan Jaques back in 2020.
The answer is that we cannot be entirely sure. Candidates (with varying degrees of probability) include: Four past Dukes of Devonshire who were called William; Sir William Saville, Lord of the Manor at Eyam; Sir William Bagshawe, High Sheriff for Derbyshire in 1805.
Will the real Sir William please stand up!
95 ETHELS, 95 BOXES TO TICK...
KINDER SCOUT (636m)
BLEAKLOW (633m)
HIGHER SHELF STONES (621m)
GRINDSLOW KNOLL (601m)
BLACK HILL (582m)
BROWN KNOLL (569m)
SHINING TOR (559m)
AXE EDGE MOOR (551m)
HOWDEN EDGE (550m)
RUSHUP EDGE (550m)
WHETSTONE RIDGE (547m)
MARGERY HILL (546m)
FEATHERBED TOP (544m)
MILL HILL (544m)
BLACK CHEW HEAD (542m)
FEATHERBED MOSS (541m)
BACK TOR (538m)
ALPORT MOOR (535m)
WHITE LOW (530m)
BRITLAND EDGE HILL (523m)
CHEEKS HILL (520m)
CATS TOR (518m)
LOST LAD (518m)
MAM TOR (517m)
OLIVER HILL (513m)
BLACK EDGE (507m)
SHUTLINGSLOE (506m)
THE ROACHES (505m)
COMBS HEAD (503m)
BURBAGE EDGE (500m)
WEST NAB (500m)
DEAD EDGE END (499m)
ASHWAY MOSS (497m)
SOUTH HEAD (494m)
MERRYTON LOW (489m)
SLITHERSTONE HILL (477m)
SNAILSDEN PIKE END (477m)
LOSE HILL (476m)
MOUNT FAMINE (473m)
HIGH EDGE (474m)
BRADWELL MOOR (471m)
ELDON HILL (470m)
ALPHIN PIKE (469m)
WIN HILL (462m)
RAMSHAW ROCKS (460m)
STANAGE EDGE (458m)
WHITE PATH MOSS (457m)
CHINLEY CHURN (452m)
FOXLOW EDGE (452m)
HOLLINS HILL (451m)
CHELMORTON LOW (446m)
TADDINGTON MOOR (438m)
STANEDGE POLE (438m)
CORBAR HILL (437m)
HIGGER TOR (434m)
GRIN LOW (430m)
SIR WILLIAM HILL (429m)
CHROME HILL (425m)
HIGH WHEELDON (422m)
BURTON BOLE (417m)
ABNEY MOOR (416m)
SPONDS HILL (413m)
COWN EDGE (411m)
BLACK HILL (410m)
GAUTRIES HILL (410m)
HEN CLOUD (410m)
CROKER HILL (402m)
REVIDGE (400m)
ALECK LOW (398m)
LONGSTONE MOOR (395m)
PILBURY HILL (395m)
WOLFSCOTE HILL (388m)
GUN (385m)
CROOK HILL (382m)
CARDER LOW (380m)
HARBOROUGH ROCKS (379m)
LANTERN PIKE (373m)
MINNINGLOW (372m)
WETTON HILL (372m)
BEELEY MOOR (371m)
ECCLES PIKE (370m)
WARDLOW HAY COP (370m)
ECTON HILL (369m)
TISSINGTON HILL (369m)
BLAKELOW HILL (367m)
MUSDEN LOW (361m)
PARKHOUSE HILL (360m)
BOLE HILL (356m)
THE CLOUD (343m)
FIN COP (327m)
STANTON MOOR (323m)
BOLEHILL (323m)
LEES MOOR (304m)
THORPE CLOUD (287m)
HARTHILL MOOR (272m)
