A three mile walk just outside the the south-eastern edge of the Peak District
There’s some parking around the fountain where Clatterway, Yeoman Street and Dale Road meet in Bonsall. Keeping the tea room for the end of this three-mile ramble, head up The Dale, passing the famous Barley Mow pub.
At the Bonsall Wesleyan Reform Church continue straight up a narrow lane. Houses give way to the fields of Horse Dale, a relatively shallow valley of meadow and shrubby trees. It’s a muddy section of the walk. Wear wellies or keep the walk for a day when frost has hardened the ground. Keep straight ahead, following the path lower in the dale.
Eventually you’ll reach a farm track. Here it gets tricky. The public ‘footpath’ on the right veers away from the farm track but no path is visible. Having the OS app is useful as it pinpoints where you need to leave the track. You’ll know you’re in the right place as you’ll come to a short section of fence with a post pointing the way – inconveniently down to a swamp. Ignore and round the swamp and pool of water to climb to Blakemere Lane. Turn right onto it.
As views open up, you’ll recognise some well-known White Peak landmarks. Look back to see the distinctive circle of trees at the ancient burial site of Minninglow, with the higher clump of trees at its centre. Above Derwent Valley you’ll see the sloping woodlands extending up from Black Rock. Complications arise again; the public footpath marked on the OS map has been fenced off. Instead take the farm track (Moor Lane) on your right by the white sign (writing no longer visible). It runs parallel to the defunct public footpath before veering left to re-join the path you should be on.
The path twists right and takes you down a farm track, where it turns into a tarmac road at Upper Town. Pause at the junction with The Bank and Uppertown Lane to admire the fountain in the wall.
Turn left and almost immediately right to continue up Bell Lane. Upper Town is a delightfully quirky hamlet. Pass the ‘post office’, a shed packed with all sorts of curious paraphernalia, to the end of the cul-de-sac. Continue straight ahead, dropping down along an ancient pathway connecting Upper Town and Bonsall. Soon glorious views open up over Bonsall, the dwellings squeezed into Bonsall Dale.
The steps leading to the triangle of the village centre were resurfaced by German POWs during WWII. It’s also believed Wesley preached from the top of the thirteen steps at the market cross. There are some lovely historic buildings here, including The King’s Head and a framework knitters’ workshop. Look out for a replica of T’owd Man, a relief of a medieval lead miner. Tumble down Yeoman Street.
Soon you’ll find yourself back at the decorative fountain – and the tearoom that serves breakfasts, lunches and afternoon teas. A great finish to this short tramp in a quiet but delightful corner of the Peak District fringes.
