I don't normally recommend linear out-and-back walks but occasionally I make an exception. Experienced on a golden autumn day this route has more than enough to merit an instant repeat performance. The multi-coloured woods and rushing Swale, the fastest flowing river in England, are stunning. The river derives its name from its swift course having been called the Swallow by the Saxons and hence Swale.
Starting in Hudswell means you arrive at the half-way point in Richmond in perfect time for lunch at one of the numerous eateries.
The route passes over the Mercury Bridge built in 1846 to connect Richmond to the new railway station. Pinnacles on top of the parapets used carried gaslights. Just beyond the bridge was a plague pit where over a thousand victims of the Black Death of 1597-99 were buried once burial grounds were full up. A plain commemorative plague stone is located in the graveyard of St Mary's Church.
You also walk across a grassy area known as the Batts, a Scandinavian term that means 'an area that floods';. It was once a hub of industrial activity. The power of the Swale was harnessed at watermills used to grind corn, saw wood and make paper and prepare cloth.
An old mill wheel and pit-wheel are remnants of the Georgian church mill demolished in 1969. Hudswell Wood is a Site of Special Scientific Interest. Look out for kingfishers, goosanders and dippers as well as Highland cattle, their coats the same rich brown as the autumn leaves, grazing on the riverside meadow. Quarries in Billy Bank Wood provided stone for Richmond Castle in the 11th century.
1. Turn left out of the car park and walk along the road briefly. Turn left onto a path beside a fingerpost to Hudswell Banks. Pass beside a football pitch and over a stile then down a hedged path and bear left. Soon turn sharp right, cross a stream and pass between two wooden posts into Calfhall Wood. At a fingerpost beside a handgate and dog stile fork left. Descend the valley side and pass through a handgate keeping the same direction.
2. At the footbridge over the Swale beside sign for Hudswell Woods bear right to passthrough a kissing gate and continue beside the river. Where the path comes out of the wood into the open fork right. Re-enter the wood via stone setts, heading towards the riverside and through a metal kissing gate. Just as the river meanders left ascend two flights of steps, bear left across a footbridge and continue in the woods.
3. At the road cross over, turn right and immediately turn left onto the Coast to Coast footpath passing the Richmond football pitch and pavilion. Approaching the town fork right through a hand gate (not the field gate on the left). Stay on the path as it passes between barns and behind houses. Turn left at a close (Priory Villas) and after a few metres left again at the main road.
4. Cross Mercury Bridge and soon turn left through a green metal gate onto a tarmac path into a park. Fork left onto a grasscrete path towards a waterfall and continue beside the river. Turn left to cross Richmond Bridge and, on the other side, turn right at the sign for Billy Bank Wood. Fork left to repeat part of your earlier route.
5. For variety turn right after the kissing gate to walk right beside the river, later passing a little sandy beach. Stay on the riverside path until you reach a long flight of steps. Turn left and ascend. Pass through a gate stile and continue up a field, passing incongruous streetlights. At road turn left back to the car park.
Notes: There are many paths to choose between on this route. As long as you head east along the southern side of the river and west on your return you can't go far wrong. Extend the walk by 5.6km to the west of Hudswell using a permissive path not marked on the OS map through Hag and Redbrow Woods.
See map at bit.ly/3ZbvHfa.
Leaflet about all the Round Howe natural trails available at bit.ly/RoundHowe.
COMPASS POINTS
Start/finish: Hudswell, DL11 6BL, grid ref NZ 147002
Distance/time: 8.4km/3 hours.
Accessibility: Easy walking with some slopes and a long flight of steps at the end.
Maps: OS Explorer 304 Darlington & Richmond, OS Landranger 92 Barnard Castle & Richmond.
Parking: Hudswell village hall car park.
Map link: bit.ly/3Zmqb9p.
EAT HERE
The George & Dragon, Hudswell. Community owned pub plus beer garden with superb valley views. Pies are a speciality. Winner of the Camra National Pub of the Year in 2017.
Customers have included King Charles in 2015! Food available Friday evening and Saturday lunch and dinner times and Sunday lunchtime. georgeanddragonhudswell.com.
The Station, Richmond.
Stylish but informal restaurant within the restored Victorian station alongside a cinema, shop, gallery and bookstall, all under one magnificent glazed
roof. Light bites, main meals, sandwiches, flatbreads and six different pizzas on the menu.
Breakfasts also available. thestation.co.uk.