Late summer into autumn sees a carpet of purple heather spilling across Yorkshire’s moorland. We tour some of the finest nature views and find out more about this wildlife-friendly landscape.
Although it often looks wild and empty, North York Moors National Park heather moorland is not a natural environment. The stone crosses and boundary markers are a reminder of man’s influence on the land, while most of the moorland is carefully managed by farmers and landowners so that they can make a living from sheep farming and grouse shooting. Some areas are managed specifically for landscape and wildlife, such as Levisham Estate, which is owned by the National Park Authority, and Fylingdales Moor, part of the Strickland Estate. If the moorland was not grazed or managed, trees would appear and much of the moorland would slowly turn into woodland.
For nature enthusiasts, Goathland is nothing short of a paradise. The surrounding North York Moors offer countless walking trails, ranging from gentle strolls to more challenging hikes. The moors are a symphony of colours, from the vibrant purples of blooming heather to the lush greens of towering firs, and breathtaking sunsets. The Homestead Kitchen organises monthly Social Walks starting out from the Goathland restaurant and lasting around two hours. The walks are about meeting people, taking in the scenery and enjoying a two-course lunch as a reward post-hike. The September walk is on the 19th, and dessert is a super-seasonal garden apple and blackberry crumble, with Goathland honey ice cream. £45pp. thehomesteadgoathland.com
Heather moorland is rare on a worldwide scale – there is probably less heather moorland in the world than tropical rainforest. One of the largest continuous expanses of upland heather moorland in England and Wales is here in the North York Moors – a sheep could wander from Egton to Bilsdale without leaving it. Moorland covers a third of the North York Moors National Park and most of the higher ground is covered in heather. Unenclosed and unsurpassed, this landscape responds sensitively to the changing seasons and has a quiet drama all of its own.
Cracoe is an idyllic hamlet near Skipton and Grassington. Heather covers the hills at Cracoe Fell where you find the Rylstone Cross landmark. Cracoe and its neighbouring village Rylstone as they are the homes of the real-life Calendar Girls, a group of women who gained national fame when they produced a nude calendar in aid of leukaemia research in the late 1990s. Their story was turned into a hit movie starring Helen Mirren and Julie Walters and it has also been replicated as a stage musical.
Cracoe lies on the Way of the Roses, a popular coast-to-coast cycling route which runs between the seaside resort of Morecambe and Bridlington in East Yorkshire.
It takes a special kind of plant to thrive in moorland areas, where the weather is often cold, wet and windy. Heather – an evergreen shrub with twiggy stems – covers our open moorland. Usually lots of heather plants grow together, forming a thick, bushy carpet, sometimes up to half a metre tall. This helps the plant to survive strong winds. Heather also has tiny, narrow leaves shaped like the needles on a Christmas tree, which stop the plant from losing too much water as the winds blow across the moors. Nectar from heather flowers makes excellent honey, and local beekeepers often bring their hives on to the moors in late-summer when the heather comes into bloom.
In Swaledale, Grinton Moor is carpeted in heather late-summer. Grinton is one of the 87 lead smelt mill sites known in the Yorkshire Dales. It is of national importance and is a scheduled monument. You can see the area on an accessible Miles without Stiles walk created by The Yorkshire Dales National Park. This 750m route runs from the Grinton to Leyburn road to the remains of the smelt mill and back again. The track is a compact mix of aggregate and grass with a general width of 200cm. Find it on the Reeth Things to Do page at yorkshiredales.org.uk
Norland Moor is a 253-acre tract of heather moorland overlooking Sowerby Bridge and both the Calder and Ryburn valleys. Criss-crossed by paths, it is popular with local walkers. Norland Moor and North Dean Woods are close to the start of the Calderdale Way, a 50-mile (80km) circuit of the borough of Calderdale. There are panoramic views straight away, as the waymarked walk accompanies the edge of Norland Moor. The route was inaugurated during the 1970s to link some of the best Pennine landscapes and historical sites – moors, mills, gritstone outcrops, wooded cloughs, hand weaving hamlets and industrial towns – into an invigorating walk. As you leave the nature reserve of North Dean Woods behind, you get good views across the valley to Sowerby Bridge and the outskirts of Halifax. There’s an 8km walking route to follow at ratedtrips.com/walking/a-circuit-of-norland-moor
This is a wild landscape, uniquely rugged, of more than 5,000 acres, steeped in history. A Site of Special Scientific Interest, home to a variety of wildlife. You can join regular National Trust guided walks around Marsden Moor with experienced and knowledgeable volunteers. Marsden Moor is laced with footpaths, and there’s a route for every ability, from gentle strolls to challenging trail. Details of walks and events at nationaltrust.org.uk
Find a grand vantage point on this famous moor to soak up the scent and colour of heather. Cow and Calf Rocks is a good place to start if you’ve never explored the area but there are walks of all levels to discover. Ilkley town is a top spot for post-walk refreshments.
ilkley.org
