It's amazing how much there is to the Yorkshire Dales. I've been exploring them for about 30 years but still keep finding new spots. Here's a walk that links two of them: Widdale and Great Knoutberry Hill.
The route is pretty novel all round. You won't find many references to it online because it doesn't follow a path for the initial three-mile ascent across open access land. Don't be put off, though. The section is a bit boggy but you shouldn't get your feet wet in waterproof boots, the gradient is fairly forgiving and walls and fences assist with navigation. Walking somewhere few people do (I passed just one walker) has a huge appeal in itself.
![For the best views, peer into Dentdale. You won't have to wait long for a train to complete the picture, going to or coming from Dent.]()
For the best views, peer into Dentdale. You won't have to wait long for a train to complete the picture, going to or coming from Dent. (Image: Paul Kirkwood.) Not many Yorkshire peaks have a tarn but Knoutberry, at 672 metres, is an exception. In fact, it boasts two: Widdle Little and Great Tarns, the south-eastern shore of the latter and the summit lying on the border between North Yorkshire and Cumbria. Take your swimming costume on a hot day!
The panorama spans the Lake District as well as the western Dales including all Three Peaks, Wild Boar Fell and Calf Top. For the best view, however, head down the hill a little to peer into Dentdale and down at Arten Gill viaduct. You won't have to wait long for a train to complete the picture, going to or coming from Dent, the highest station in England. By this stage you're on a broad grassy track that gently descends into Widdale through plantations and beside a babbling beck.
![Widdale Bridge.]()
Widdale Bridge. (Image: Paul Kirkwood.) 1. Cross Widdale Bridge then fork immediately right and follow a track to the left of a wall and stream. Pass through a gap in the fence. Head towards the right edge of the plantation, using the wall to your left as a handrail.
2. Step over a fence (easy) where the wall and a fence meet and continue the ascent with a wall on your right. Head for and pass through a collapsed wall. After 300m, where the wall and fence meet, cross over the wall (now barely existing) and continue with its remains to your left.
![Widdale Great Tarn.]()
Widdale Great Tarn. (Image: Paul Kirkwood.) 3. Walk towards and briefly along the south-eastern shore of Widdale Great Tarn. Right beside the water step over a fence (easy) and continue upwards keeping the fence on your left to reach the shelter with seat and trig point on the summit of Great Knoutberry Hill.
![The summit at Great Knoutberry.]()
The summit at Great Knoutberry. (Image: Paul Kirkwood) 4. Cross stile and proceed with the fence on your right gently down hill. At a wall pass through a metal fieldgate, over a wall stepstile. Turn left onto a track and pass through a kissing gate. Follow the track as it contours around the western and southern side of the hill.
![The last leg - down into the Widdale valley.]()
The last leg - down into the Widdale valley. (Image: Paul Kirkwood.) 5. Eventually, at the crossroads with the Pennine Bridleway, pass through a metal field gate and turn left through a wooden field gate signed 'Widdale 2½'. Stay on the track all the way back to Widdale Bridge.
![Widdale Beck.]()
Widdale Beck. (Image: Paul Kirkwood.) COMPASS POINTS
Start/finish: Widdale, DL8 3LX, grid ref SD 827 879.
Time/distance: 13.7km/4 hours.
Accessibility: This is a challenging route. See main text. Walk the route in the direction described to have the tough section at the start. The going is much easier after the summit.
Maps: OS Explorer OL2 Yorkshire Dales Western Area or Landranger 98 Wensleydale & Upper Wharfedale.
Parking: Room for three cars in a narrow layby just beyond Widdale Bridge. Alternatively, park in a former quarry 1 km to the east at grid ref SD 836 887.
Map link: bit.ly/GreatKnoutberryHill
EAT HERE
![The Board Inn, Hawes]()
The Board Inn, Hawes (Image: Paul Kirkwood.) The Board Inn, Hawes. Specialities include steak and Black Sheep ale pie and a 'build your own' burger. All suppliers are local. Eat in the bar area, snug or outside. Five bedrooms also available. theboardinnhawes.com.
![The Wensleydale Pantry, Hawes]()
The Wensleydale Pantry, Hawes (Image: Paul Kirkwood) The Wensleydale Pantry, Hawes. Independent, family run business with meats supplied from its own Brown Moor Farm. Menu includes breakfasts, jacket potatoes, children's menu, light meals, main meals, sandwiches, toasted sandwiches, Jersey Wensleydale ice cream, and beers and wines. facebook.com/TheWensleydalePantry.
