The River Bain between Bainbridge and Semer Water, at two miles long, is reputed to be the shortest named river in England. Meanwhile, Semer Water is the second largest natural lake in North Yorkshire behind Malham Tarn. Walking doyen A W Wainwright wasn't impressed, though, when he visited on his Pennine Journey in 1938. He dismissed Semer Water in comparison to Lake Windermere in his beloved Lake District as a 'flooded field'. I'm sure that the paddle boarders and swimmers I saw enjoying the lake would beg to differ.
Raydale's third claim to fame is that the hamlet of Stalling Busk is where the concept of the walkers' 'right to roam' was formulated. As recorded by a blue plaque on Bell's Cottage, the legal terms of the Countryside and Rights of Way Act were initially drafted during the Stalling Busk Conference by resident and Ramblers lawyer, Jerry Pearlman, in 1996.
Old St Matthew's Church just outside Stalling Busk, now evocative ruins, dates from 300 years ago although it incorporates stonework from an earlier church on the site from the early 17th century. The church was superseded by a new Arts and Crafts style building with the same name in the centre of the village in 1909 which is also worth a visit.
Also look out for the Quaker meeting house at Countersett, one of an intriguing jumble of buildings including the charming little Old School and Old Hall. The house, a former barn, was built in 1710 and worship still takes places there once a month. The original Hall owner and the first Quaker in Wensleydale was Richard Robinson. Fined and imprisoned for his beliefs, he used to hold secretive meetings at the Hall until the Toleration Act of 1689 which legalised Quakerism.
THE WALK
1. Leave Bainbridge via the A684 road heading east. As the road bears left follow a sign on the right to Semer Water. Head towards a tall barn and walk to the left of its walled enclosure then head towards a fingerpost. Pass over the brow of Bracken Hill and descend towards and alongside the River Bain.
2. Turn left at Semer Water bridge and briefly follow the road beside the lake. Where the road ascends opposite a farm turn right onto a footpath signed to Stalling Busk. Pass into and out of the Semer Water nature reserve and by a ruined church. After it fork left and upwards, again signed to Stalling Busk.
3. Nearing the hamlet pass through a fieldgate, bear sharp right then turn left and right again which takes you onto the main street. Just after the church turn right down a gravel track. Go over a ford/bridge then bear slightly left to walk beside a long ford. Cross a footbridge at the far end of the ford and keep ahead on a stony then concreted track. Fork right across grass towards an old phonebox then turn right over Marsett Bridge.
4.Walk along the road and at a large new barn on the left turn left onto a footpath signed to Countersett and Crag Side Road. Pass through a gated stile and at a telegraph pole bear right. Cross a new ditch and continue ahead with a wire fence on your right towards. After a stile with a tall gate walk to the right of a small wire enclosure. Pass over a collapsed wall.
5. At the road turn left to and through Countersett. As the road bears left at an old barn turn right onto a footpath signed to Gill Edge. Go through a gate and over a ladder stile, pass a castle playhouse and between farm buildings. Go through a kissing gate ahead signed to Bainbridge and gradually descend, in and out of trees, back to the village.
COMPASS POINTS
Start/finish: Bainbridge, DL8 3GA, grid ref SD 934 903.
Time/distance: 5 hours/13km. You could always halve the route at the northern end of Semer Water where there is a car park.
Accessibility: The ford path before Marsett gets soggy.
Maps: OS Explorer OL30 Yorkshire Dales Northern & Central areas, OS Landranger 98 Wensleydale & Upper Wharfedale.
Parking: On Bainbridge village green, with consideration.
Map link: bit.ly/YLRaydale.
EAT HERE
The Rose and Crown Hotel, Bainbridge. Large 15th century inn that overlooks the village green. Wide variety of pies available along with 'great Yorkshire puddings' filled with roast beef, Cumberland sausage or vegetarian sausage. theprideofwensleydale.co.uk.
The Corn Mill tearoom, Bainbridge. Provides an all-day service of breakfast, brunch and lunch. Menu includes soup and quiche of the day, home-made sausage rolls, filled rolls and hot ciabattas. Open daily. thebakewellaskrigg.com.
Something fancy? Yorebridge House is an award-winning boutique hotel in Bainbridge - you can go gourmet or enjoy a pint and lunch in the grounds - or reward a big walk with afternoon tea. yorebridgehouse.co.uk
