Love for York knows no bounds when it comes to Christmastime. The city exudes a festive glow of its own as markets bustle, trees shimmer and party people head for mulled wine and berry cocktails.
At its heart, mighty York Minster lords over the city and perfectly pitched in its shadow is York Minster Refectory, an historic building literally packed to its ageing rafters with carvings, character and splashes of old-meets new.
Light fittings are made from pages of sheet music, reflecting the building's past life as a choir school – this was the refectory for the pupils. It’s nice to think the musical notes to Silent Night might be wafting over your head as you dine this December. The building is perfectly dressed for Christmas with a jolly tree, garlands, swags and baubles. So much cheer.
There’s a three- course festive menu in full swing during December at £28pp – and you can even book the ultimate Christmas Day lunch there for £250 a pop.
But on a quiet Tuesday lunchtime it was a dip into the seasonal a la carte menu. A couple of glasses of perky Hattingley English sparkling were a treat with huge Lindisfarne oysters and a taster of the Coronation Crab ‘Vol-Au-Vents’ (£6) packed with devilled quail egg, sultana, flaked almond and coriander – appropriately enough, they were devised for King Charles III when he opened the place earlier this year. And yep, taste fit for a king.
I moved to a starter of meltingly good salt-aged Yorkshire beef rump tartare (£16) which was punchy and well-seasoned – and which I will be back for in its main course guise (with fries £33) some time soon. My dining buddy had was wowed by an unusual offering of delicate beetroot cured North Sea monkfish loin (£14) with a shaved fennel, lovage, sherry vinegar dressing.
The specials menu this day was all about celebrating the seasons of Yorkshire – sadly, the Rievaulx-shot partridge had escaped us to the table of other diners, we were too slow – but I plumped instead for breast of Yorkshire Moors pheasant (£22). A real sense of place on that plate with the moist breast meat served alongside its rich confit leg, creamy parsnip, hedgerow blackberries – not to mention a game ‘fruit n nut’ sausage roll - this came home with me wrapped in a foil parcel!
Our other choice was maple-glazed Yorkshire duck breast (£29), served pink and full of earthy flavour. Again, part of a gorgeous party gathering of rich seasonal ingredients – including chestnut mushrooms, charred celeriac and cavolo nero; the vegetables all nesting on an unctuous slow-cooked duck leg bolognaise.
A word too for the side dishes – not necessarily needed with these fulsome plates - but too enticing not to tempt. How to say no to a dish of Autumn Truffle ‘Tartiflette’ (£6) layering up potatoes, oozy reblochon cheese, smoked bacon and onion. Or Muscade pumpkin (£6) which was roasted and indulgent - but managed to make you feel healthy with its scattering of chestnuts and toasted seeds.
These mains were so true to the rustic roots of the Andrew Pern restaurant and his way of cooking. The Michelin-starred chef has always been about offering food that celebrates the surroundings of Yorkshire and in this place his chefs really make it a celebration – both of food and place.
I’ve never been known as ‘a pudding ‘person’ but something has shifted in me this year and I have to say the brioche & sultana bread & butter pudding (£10) is the best dessert I’ve ever tasted. Amazing moussey texture and a smattering of caramelised fig, honey oat ‘clusters’ - plus Whitby rum ‘n’ raisin ice cream. Lordy. An OMG moment for me. Our other dessert was another homage to Yorkshire - dark chocolate & Black Sheep steamed sponge (£12) with its ale caramel sauce and salted caramel ice cream – tasted as smooth as it sounds.
This place is one of exceptional cooking, great staff full of Yorkshire welcome and all the know-how you'd expect on Pern premises. Let the bells ring out.
York Minster Refectory | York Restaurant | British-style favourites
