Think you know Yorkshire? In her new Wild Guide, Sarah Banks unearths lesser-known places to explore, quirky places to stay and undiscovered gems for sustenance stops. Here are her suggestions for a perfect weekend in the Howardian Hills
RIVERS & RUINS
A secluded freshwater lake and the source of the River Foss, a tributary of the Ouse, which rises in Foss Crooks Woods near the reservoir. From Yearsley village, take North Moor Lane, then turn left, signposted ‘Oulston’, for 1 mile. Park in lay-by and walk to footpath sign. Follow track towards Pond Head Farm and turn right at kissing gate. Follow footpath into woods to reservoir on left. Technically no swimming but locals do.
EXCLAMATION GATES
Two pillars frame a sensational reveal of Castle Howard on the horizon, with additional views of the follies and monuments across the estate. Their name derives from cries of astonishment from visitors, including Queen Victoria, as they approached the grand house. From roadside parking in Welburn, look for crossroads then follow road uphill towards church, then follow path edging field for 500m to stone pillars at top for stupendous views.
CITY OF TROY
The smallest turf maze in Europe often goes unnoticed. Such turf labyrinths were once widespread throughout the British Isles but this is one of only eight remaining in England, measuring just 8m by 6.5m and its exact age remains a mystery. Follow the B1363 out of Brandsby to crossroads. Turn right to ‘Terrington/Dalby’ then sharp left. Continue a mile past a small wood on right. The maze is surrounded by a low wooden railing.
MALTON TO KIRKHAM, RIVER DERWENT
This beautiful river journey is around seven miles of fairly easy kayaking from Malton through the spectacular scenery of Kirkham Gorge to the 13th-century ruins of Kirkham Priory. From the A64, take the exit towards Helmsley. Continue on York Rd (B1248), then turn onto Railway St. Turn right before doctor’s surgery onto Riverside View and roadside parking past the houses at the end of the road. Walk over banking to river and slipway.
HOWSHAM MILL
Small island next to a Georgian Gothic watermill. Ladder access to river just past Archimedes Screw and weir. Follow the A64 east from York for 9 miles. Turn signposted ‘Harton’. After a mile turn right out of village. Continue for 1 mile. Parking on right, over bridge. Walk under bridge with river on left, cross footbridge to island. The ladder is under the bank in a little hollow further along the island, past the buildings, in the woods.
LAY YOUR HEAD
THE HIDEAWAY AT BAXBY MANOR
Beautiful glamp site on the 770-year-old Medieval Baxby Estate, nestled in the rolling countryside of the Howardian Hills. Something for every type of camper, from the enchanting Hobbit houses to rustic Rufus’s Roost. Otherwise, pitch your tent or park up your camper on the 2½-hectare site with excellent facilities; several times winner of loo of the year! ,Baxby Manor, Husthwaite, York, YO61 4PW. 01347 666079.
STILLINGTON MILL SHEPHERD’S HUT AND POP-UP CAFÉ
Situated in the grounds of an 18th-century former watermill, this pretty shepherd’s hut is decked out in vintage style and has a small pond and island to explore. It is also possible to camp out next to the hut, and there is a campfire and BBQ too. Mill Lane, Stillington, York, YO61 1NG, 01347 811503.
CARR HOUSE FARM B&B
Surrounded by meadows, orchards and ancient bluebell woods, this charming 16th century farmhouse B&B has been welcoming guests for more than 40 years. After a scrumptious Yorkshire breakfast, pull on your boots to explore the 160 hectares of woodland, streams and waterfalls. ,Ampleforth, York, YO62 4ED. 01347 868526.
GREETS FARM CAMPSITE
Enjoy camping as it used to be at this small, award-winning, family-run caravan and camping site. Beautiful views. Pub and bakery down the road. Well placed for visiting the moors, coast and Howardian Hills. Sorry, no kids. Greets Farm, Welburn, YO60 7EP. 01653 619453.
COTRIL FARM CAMPSITE
Pop-up wild camping field on a working family farm with plenty of space for kids to burn off energy. Portaloo but no shower. Level, wellmaintained pitches and campfires. Collect fresh eggs for breakfast. The well-stocked Terrington Stores is a short stroll away for local produce and everyday essentials. Terrington, York, YO60 6NT. 07761 123677.
CHAPEL COTTAGE CAMPING
Small-scale campsite for ten tents and five vans run by very friendly owners. Peaceful location on edge of village and a good base for exploring the southern North York Moors. Chapel Cottage, Normanby, York, YO62 6RH, 01751 431984.
STUDFORD LUXURY LODGES
If high-end glamping ticks your boxes, check out these architecturally designed lodges. Elevated among the treetops in a secluded woodland with a huge, decked area and far-reaching views, this is luxury in a wilderness setting. High St, Nr Ampleforth, York, YO62 4BH. 01439 788991.
HALL FARM B&B, STITTENHAM
Traditional B&B with an adjoining holiday cottage in a charming setting overlooking the village pond and the Howardian Hills. Owner Sally trained as a chef at the Savoy so expect scrumptious cooked breakfasts. Stittenham Woods is right behind, with a beautiful display of bluebells in spring. High Stittenham, Sheriff Hutton, York, YO60 7TW. 01347 87838.
THE DEN AT HUSTHWAITE GATE
Surrounded by the wooded and tranquil valleys of the Hambleton Hills, this secluded retreat, hidden away by the side of the former railway station, was once the railway sidings. Stylish decor and quirky cabin-style bedrooms. Green electricity from an on-site wind turbine and the timber floorboards came from the village hall. Old Station House, Husthwaite Gate, YO61 4QF. 07745 057807.
PLUM AND PARTRIDGE
Small upmarket hotel in the pretty village of Husthwaite with splendid views of the White Horse. Perfect for a romantic retreat as well as for cyclists or walkers. Beautifully furnished rooms and an excellent restaurant. Low St, Husthwaite, York, YO61 4QA. 01347 868642.
GASTRO HEAVEN
THE FAIRFAX ARMS, GILLING EAST
Pretty village pub with a traditional oak beamed bar, light and airy orangery and plenty of outdoor seating on rattan chairs by a roadside stream. Good modern menu and friendly ambience. ,Main St, Gilling East, Helmsley, York, YO62 4JH. 01439 788212.
LUTT AND TURNER COFFEE HOUSE & EATERY
Charming artisan café offering up a delicious selection of cakes, scones and pastries and freshly prepared breakfasts – full English, pancake stacks, cinnamon toast – and light lunches. Afterwards, pop into Kemps General Store, fast becoming a Malton institution, with its superbly curated bookshop. ,12–14 Market St, Malton, YO17 7LY. 01653 692555.
THE COXWOLD TEAROOMS
Delightful café and B&B housed in the former village headteacher’s home with a pretty tea garden. Delicious homemade cakes and scones. Also, a holiday cottage to let. Open Wed to Sun 11am – 4.30pm. Coxwold YO61 4AD. 01347 868138.
HOVINGHAM BAKERY AND ROLLING PIN CAFÉ
Popular village bakery and tearoom by Hovingham beck, run by husband-and-wife team Simon and Victoria. Expect a Scandinavian touch to the baked goods on offer as Victoria is from Sweden. Be sure to try their delicious cinnamon buns. ,Brookside, Hovingham, York, YO62 4LG. 01653 628898.
THE GRAPES INN, SLINGSBY
Cosy up by the fire or bag a table in the heated wooden cabin with its cosy sheepskin throws at this popular village pub. Weekends (Fri – Sun) are pizza nights with hand-made, traditional Neapolitan-style pizzas cooked in a wood-fired oven and served from the outside ‘organ bar’. Railway St, Slingsby, York, YO62 4AL. 01653 628076.
QUARMBY’S CAFÉ AND DELI
Contemporary coffee house, eatery and deli with an outdoor terrace overlooking Sheriff Hutton. Light lunches and delicious cakes, including plenty of vegan and gluten-free options. The Square, Sheriff Hutton, YO60 6QX. 01347 878779.
DOGH
Bakery, deli and café where locals, walkers and cyclists grab a seat at the outside table to enjoy a coffee and watch the world go by. Takeaway pizza on Fri and Sat. Welburn, York, YO60 7DX. 01653 618352.
THE BAGGINS FARM GATE SHOP
Free-range pork, lamb and chicken farmed on a small scale. The meat – Pippins Pork, Legolas Lamb and Proudfoot Poultry – is named after characters in Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings. Also sells organic fruit and veg, honey, cereals and their own pasteurised milk. Thornton Ln, Easingwold, York, YO61 3QB. 01347 868894.
WASS FARM SHOP
Award-winning farm shop selling free-range, grass-fed meat from the farm. Nick holds a deer-stalking licence so wild game from the woodlands is a speciality, and there is even an option of pigeon and squirrel. Hollie Cottage, Wass Grange, West End, Ampleforth, York, YO62 4ED. 07779 340799.
SPILMAN’S, CHURCH FARM
If it’s not from Yorkshire, it won’t be on the shelves of this family-run farm shop, which sells home-reared beef and lamb and herb-fed chicken, PYO soft fruits and seasonal asparagus. On-site café, takeaway kiosk and breakfast van serving bacon sausage baps. Play barn for kids. ,Church Farm, Sessay, Thirsk, YO7 3NB. 07754 857284
Wild Guide North East by Sarah Banks is £18.99 but Yorkshire Life readers can receive 25% off and free P&P with code YorkshireLife at wildthingspublishing.com
