A handful of what feels like sand is being rubbed across my back. It’s not an unpleasant experience but it is more akin to days spent at the beach before I could afford a sun lounger than a spa treatment.
Now my neck and shoulders are being massaged while a detoxifying mask that’s been slathered across my face gets to work. Pretty soon I’m so relaxed I’m fighting not to fall asleep and embarrass myself with a snore.
Soothing hands are gently kneading and massaging my face before luxurious facial balm and eye cream are smoothed onto my skin. ‘Your back feels like silk,’ the beauty therapist announces at the end of the 60-minute session. I smile, proud, though until now I didn’t know that backs as well as visages could also have a ‘facial’.
I’m at South Lodge, a luxurious country house hotel set in 93 acres of stunning countryside in Lower Beeding, West Sussex. Tucked away down a long driveway just past Leonardslee Estate, the lodge, the original of which dates back to 1802, and was visited by Frankenstein author Mary Shelley in 1845, has a multi-million-pound state-of-the-art spa.
It must be a miracle in a jar because when I leave to meet my husband who’s come straight to South Lodge from work, he demands to know what I’ve had done. ‘Is it Botox?’ he asks, looking closely for any signs of injections. ‘You look ten years younger.’
I laugh, encouraging him to book a treatment. But he shakes his head. Our room comes with extended spa access and knowing that there are three pools, a cold-water lake for wild swimming, a botanical sauna, salt steam room, and an icy bucket shower, Alexio doesn’t need a beauty therapist. ‘A couple of hours in the spa is enough for me,’ he insists.
But first I want to show him our room, or rather, our suite. It’s the Elizabeth Le Bay and looks like something straight out of Downton Abbey but with a modern, slightly country Boho, twist. On the first floor, overlooking the South Downs, the suite has the wow factor. It isn’t just the feature fireplace, chandelier, bright botanical prints, the jacuzzi bath with Aquavision TV or walk-in rain shower that would fit most families. It isn’t even the Ruark radio that looks vintage but is the height of modern sophistication as well as style, nor the king size bed and lounge area with an L-shape sofa. It’s that the hotel has thought of everything in this peachy toned haven. From the Ridgeview bottle of sparkling wine on ice, Exclusive Collection chocolates and full bottles of Molton Brown bathroom products awaiting us, this suite is exquisite and bursting with stately charm.
In the end he goes to explore what the 44,000 sq ft spa while I relax with a glass of wine following my treatment. We’re booked into the spa’s Botanica restaurant for 7.30pm that night.
Just as the spa at South Lodge has been inspired by nature – and even has a green roof – and is designed to showcase the views of the South Downs, while combining the latest in fitness and wellness facilities, and embracing sustainability, the restaurant is also ‘keeping it green.’
The menu is packed with zero-waste Mediterranean-inspired plant-based or healthy lean meat or fish dishes, created using local, seasonal ingredients.
While I’m tempted by head chef Jonathan Spier’s vegetarian Wasted Burger – made out of veggie leftovers – I plump for a starter of spiced wasted carrot bread with olive oil and balsamic reduction (£4) while Alexio chooses Bloody Mary chips (‘a drink and a snack at once,’ he laughs and a bargain at £4.50) and Nocellara olives (£4), all of which are delicious.
For our main I choose a whole spiced cauliflower with green lentils jewelled salad and mint and cumin tzatziki (£25) and my husband goes all traditional with a roast breast of lamb accompanied with Milford baby carrots, lovage and onion seed crumb ( £28). My dish is supposed to be for sharing but it’s so mouth-tingling tasty that I begrudgingly let Alexio taste a tiny floret. ‘Mmm,’ he smiles as I try to move my plate away.
I’m too full for desert but Alexio orders sticky toffee sponge to share that comes with preserved figs, candied seeds and caramelised fig gelato (£18). It is very sweet but he manages to polish off the lot – and we leave the restaurant full and smiling.
Botanica is the most casual of the restaurants at South Lodge – you can even dine here wearing a bathrobe until 5.45pm – with Michelin-starred The Pass with seven-course tasting menus from Head Chef Ben Wilkinson where guests can watch the action in the kitchen.
There’s also Camellia, the modern, seasonal restaurant where Head Chef Josh Mann plucks ingredients straight from the hotel’s walled garden. With 3 AA Rosettes, we’re excited to try out breakfast here and it doesn’t disappoint. Pastries, fresh fruits, smoothies and breakfasts cooked to order are all on offer. My scrambled eggs are light-as-air and fluffy while Alexio’s Eggs Royale are poached to perfection and paired with smoked salmon.
We try not to eat too much though as we want to make the most of our spa access. First, we take a brisk walk outside to take in those views and explore the extensive grounds. There are gardens, meadows, a vineyard and lawns on which to play boules, croquet and football when the weather’s good. There are treasure trails and bikes to borrow, too. We’re even allowed to pick the flowers to put in a vase left for that purpose in our suite, but I want to leave them as nature intended and for other guests to enjoy.
The current house, which was the former home of eminent botanist Frederick DuCane Godman who used his Whitbread inheritance to build it in 1883, became a hotel in 1985 and is now part of the Exclusive Collection.
It’s cold so at the spa I eschew the 18m natural swimming lake, even though it’s heated enough to stop it freezing over, and go for a dip in the heated indoor infinity edged pool instead. Alexio is lying in the outdoor vitality hydrotherapy pool – an al fresco spa pool that bubbles all around him while taking in the spectacular South Downs views.
Next he tries to coax me into joining in his session in the restorative thermal suite where he heads into the botanical sauna, followed by a visit to the salt steam room which boosts circulation, soothes aching muscles and gives skin a vibrant glow. He must be feeling particularly brave as he then throws a bucket of ice water over himself – and starts the whole process over again.
It looks far too bracing for me and so after completing a few lazy laps of the pool, I choose a big, comfy lounger and relax. I must have relaxed a little too much as a couple of hours later, Alexio is standing over me smiling. ‘It’s time to shower and go,’ he says.
We both look and feel so much more relaxed even though we’ve only been here for 24 hours. South Lodge is a stylish and stately way to get some much-needed RnR on our doorstep. You could say it’s a case of so near, so spa.
Staying There
Bed and breakfast with extended spa access from 1pm check in until 2pm check out in the Elizabeth le Bay Signature Suite starts at £630 per night.
The Cubby rooms start from £415 including breakfast and check in at 3pm. exclusive.co.uk
