With its hotch-potch of medieval black and white timber houses, stuffed-to-the-brim antique stores and a castle on the hill with a fluttering flag and timeless turrets, a visit to Arundel is like stepping into the pages of a history book or the middle of a Disney set. More Arendelle than Arundel perhaps?
But while it may look like it’s been Frozen in time, this stunning market town, complete with cobbled streets and a cathedral with the 13th Earl of Arundel, St Philip Howard’s Tudor bones enshrined within, boasts modern day country pursuits galore and is constantly topping best places to live lists.
Where else could you find a murder mystery dinner being held at a jailhouse where guards greet ‘prison cell guests’ at the historic Town Hall? Or the mayor in full regalia turning out to welcome The Big Hoot art trail where 30 large and 30 small owls – including the Stained Glass Owl sponsored by Sussex Life – are swooping into the town.
Created to raise money for Chestnut Tree House, the local children’s hospice, Tony Hunt, Mayor of Arundel, said the ‘magnificently painted owls’ are part of a ‘flourishing’ local art scene. ‘There is something special about finding art in the street, outside the confines of a gallery,’ he said. ‘Having seen the delight on people’s faces – especially young people’s faces – when the original own, Minerva, was unveiled last year, I am really looking forward to seeing the pleasure that this trail will give to everyone.’
In fact, the tiny town, which dates back to Roman and Saxon times and was established as an important port, has a busy summer schedule with the Arundel Festival – now in its 46th year – takes place over ten days in August and showcasing everything from music, dance, comedy, and drama to street entertainment.
There’s now a Literary Weekend, launched by the Victoria Institute this year, with workshops on writing poetry, radio scripts and fiction with local authors each March, along with concerts by The Hanover Band at St Nicholas Church and Shakespeare performed under a starry, starry sky in the fairytale gothic castle gardens.
Stroll down to the River Arun, from which the town takes its name, and there’s plenty of live bands performing and vying to take your attention away from the most scenic views.
Just 15 minutes’ drive from the coast, Arundel sits at the foot of the South Downs National Park and enjoys the best of both worlds.
It's why property finding experts Garrington placed the town in sixth place in the country in their Best Places to Live list back in 2021, praising Arundel for being ‘urban chic’ and boasting a ‘rich, 1,000-year heritage amidst country pursuits.’
There are old-fashioned family days out here, too. Stroll down to Swanbourne Lake where you can rent little boats. Feed the ducks and swans and enjoy a lolly or ice cream on sale from the ice cream hut there.
In search of some culture and history? Head to the Arundel Museum (arundelmuseum.org) to learn about the town’s fascinating history throughout the ages. There are exhibitions, artefacts and events including a guided town walk with local historian and author Chris Hare on 25 August to learn about Arundel Under Siege to visit the buildings and places associated with the Civil War.
FOOD AND DRINK
Duck inside the low doorframe of Pallant of Arundel, the exterior of which looks like something out of a Charles Dickens novel and breathe in the cosy and comforting scent of freshly-baked cakes and cakes.
The purveyors of fine food and wines on the High Street support local, artisan producers and showcase jams, jellies, chutneys and pickles as well as locally roasted coffee beans, ground to order, eggs, cheeses and pastries. If it’s for sale in a supermarket you won’t find it on the shelves here. They do a roaring trade in hampers at Christmas and offer wines from local vineyards as they do their bit to champion the very best of Sussex. www.pallantofarundel.co.uk
Another local store who likes to see the value in the natural world around us is Gaskyns Wholefields (www.gaskyns.co.uk). The family-run business stocks healthy food as well as eco-friendly products and refills. There’s plenty of vegan, vegetarian, gluten and dairy-free options, too.
Arundel isn’t exactly short of cafes but one that stands out is Midpines Café (www.midpines.co.uk/) in nearby Denmans Gardens. Based in what was the old dairy, there’s now a domed conservatory and gravel courtyard where you can sit and eat breakfast, or lunch. The Californian-inspired menu includes the morning glory (two sausages, two bacon, fried egg, Midpines hash, roasted mushroom & cherry vine toms, beans and sourdough) or the Californian haloumi burger.
Afterwards marvel at the work of the late John Brookes MBE, one of Britain’s most influential landscape designers at Denman’s Garden. The award-winning Grade II garden features gravel gardens, dry riverbeds, a walled garden and a conservatory, all filled with unusual plants. www.denmans.org
If it’s a drink you’re after, there are plenty of popular riverside pubs. For a pint with plenty of atmosphere head to the Kings Arms with its bunting and cobbles, while a further half a mile up Mill Road, the Black Rabbit has vistas over the river and castle keep. (theblackrabbitarundel.co.uk).
Or why not indulge in a guided tasting flight of Digby’s sparkling wines at Digby Fine English’s elegant tasting room. The UK’s first high street cellar door, you can drop in for a glass – or two! – or buy some wine to enjoy back home. (digby-fine-english.com)
Craft beer drinkers can save wildlife while supping at Fauna Brewing & Taproom. The small, independent brewery makes beer with a purpose choosing a different wildlife conservation cause to support with every beer they brew. Faunabrewing.com (Turn to page XX to see our interview with head brewer Mat Hicks.)
SHOPPING
If it’s some retail therapy you’re after you came to the right town. Arundel is stuffed with antiques shops, bric-a-brac stores and independent boutiques.
For English and French decorative antiques head to Arundel Eccentrics (arundeleccentrics.com) where there is everything from upcycled 19th century chests of drawers to vintage pots. Based in a 19th century warehouse that was part of Swallow brewery on Fitzalan Road, while away an hour or two here picking up a unique gem for your home.
Next stop worth a visit is Gallery 57, a contemporary art gallery in part of a Grade II-listed Georgian house where artist and owner Ann Symes lives. Admire the work of local, national and international artists in the gallery which is linked to Ann’s studio. Catch the current Landmarked Exhibition which is on until 28 September and features abstract pieces from a range of artists. (gallery57.co.uk)
Fancy a unique scent? Discover your favourite in Scent Lounge where you’ll find an apothecary-style collection of perfumes, candles, diffusers and gifts. Recently voted Best Lifestyle Shop 2023, this store stocks iconic but lesser known luxury scents with a fascinating history. Our favourite is Eight & Bob, created by Albert Fouquet, who bumped into John F Kennedy in the south of France who was captivated by his scent. Back home he ordered eight bottles and one for his brother Bob – hence the name. (scentlounge.com)
When it comes to buying something special to wear Fanny Adams (fannyadams.org.uk) offers a stylish but affordable range of clothes you’ll want to wear again and again. The boutique, which also sells shoes, jewellery and accessories, started as a pop-up during the Arundel Festival in 2012 but was so successful founder Kim Bailey decided to stay and open the store in Tarrant Street.
Milliner Isabella Josie creates bespoke hats, fascinators and head pieces to buy or hire for all occasions, including retro style pieces for the popular Revival. The designer also holds regular workshops and parties at her studio in Tarrant Street to celebrate a birthday, bridal showers or meet up with friends. isabellajosie.com
EDUCATION AND BUSINESS
Need to keep the children entertained during the summer holidays? Slindon College is holding a summer holiday club for boys and girls. The college is a specialist day and boarding chool for boys, set in historic Slindon House within the South Downs National Park around four miles west of Arundel. The College provides a specialist learning environment and highly individualised education to pupils from year four through to Sixth Form.
Underpinning the ethos of Slindon College is strong pastoral care and small class sizes which ensure pupils thrive as their strengths are understood and called upon to encourage further learning exploration.
Many pupils at Slindon College have moderate learning difficulties, mainly in the area of cognition and learning. The school is passionate about the importance of the individual and removing learning barriers. Every child at Slindon College is valued for who they are, and encouraged to develop their talents. The College supports them to achieve their personal best both at school and within the wider community.
The next Open Morning at Slindon College is Saturday 28th September. www.slindoncollege.co.uk
For all legal requirements Green Wright Chalton Annis, otherwise known as GWCA, is a leading firm of solicitors with offices in Arundel and across Sussex that provide legal services for individuals and businesses. www.gwca.co.uk
If you want to know more about any local businesses, news or interesting facts about the town, head to Visit Arundel which also lists a host of events happening throughout the year. Visitarundel.co.uk
MUST DO
The castle is fascinating all year round. Explore the restored Norman keep, medieval Gatehouse and Barbican, a remodelled 19th-century Gothic house, a rare collection of paintings by renowned artists including Van Dyck, Gainsborough and Canaletto, gardens to picnic in, and glorious views along the River Arun. Entry to see the gardens £15 and castle, gardens and bedroom £29 adult, £12 child. arundelcastle.org.
MUST SEE
The Arundel Wetland Centre is just beyond Arundel castle, parts of which date back to 1068, where guests can feed blue-billed puna teals or see the shovelers, eiders and sand martins.
Head out on a Wetland Discovery Boat safari, where over a 20-minute trip in an electric boat, you’ll spot wildlife in its natural habitat including kingfisher, peregrine or grey heron. Tickets £14.50, adult and £9.27 child. wwt.org.uk