Island hopping in Greece used to be the preserve of young backpackers who didn’t mind the crowded ferries, busy beaches and budget hotels.
But times have changed and sophisticated travellers are now soaking up the cosmopolitan vibe in the Greek capital of Athens before escaping the city heat to head for the islands and a more traditional, laidback atmosphere.
With only a week to spend in both destinations, we stopped in Athens for a couple of nights before jumping on the fast ferry to Spetses, located in the Saronic group of islands, for five glorious sun-filled days.
With lots of nearby islands to choose from, each with their own individual charm and character, the only trouble you’ll have is deciding exactly where to explore after your city stopover.
THE CITY SLEEPOVER
A two-night city break was a last minute, impulsive decision, but being the height of summer we were under no illusions that Greece’s popular capital would be nothing less than scorching hot and teeming with visitors from all corners of the globe.
With a large port and many stunning islands within easy reach of the mainland, we also decided to extend our break, adding in the allure of some fresher sea air and an altogether slower, more leisurely pace.
But first, our sophisticated city sleepover. Having visited Athens before, we weren’t too bothered about the location and in the end, opted to stay in an up and coming, bohemian neighbourhood out of the centre, but easily accessible for the city’s landmarks by metro or Uber.
We checked into the Wyndham Grand, known for its understated, affordable luxury and excellent position surrounded by art galleries and restaurants, and close to Metaxourgeio metro station. There are 276 contemporary styled rooms and suites featuring city or Acropolis views, large windows, marble bathrooms and tasteful decor.
With the daytime temperature soaring, coupled with equally sultry nights, we also appreciated the hotel’s outdoor waterfall pool – not the biggest but ideal for a cooling dip after a day exploring the city.
The place to be for sunset and beyond is Above rooftop bar and restaurant on the 9th floor, which has impressive 360-degree panoramic views of the city, the Acropolis, Lycabettus hill and all the way down to the Saronic Gulf.
The menu tempted with Mediterranean and International cuisine such as Ribeye Black Angus Tagliatta and Seabass Friccassee, with must-try local dessert Ekmek Tsoureki – light vanilla cream on a syrupy brioche bread – plus, of course, expertly mixed cocktails.
This is also where we came for the daily breakfast buffet with all the early morning favourites including eggs cooked myriad ways, traditional Greek coffee and even local honeycomb.
We spent two glorious days walking, shopping, eating, drinking and making the most of the sky high views in what is arguably one of the most exciting European cities to visit right now.
THE ISLAND ESCAPE
I first arrived on Spetses island as a wide-eyed teenager in the 90’s on one of my first ‘grown up’ holidays that served up sunstroke, a succession of hangovers and one of the best tans I’ve ever had. With nothing but fond memories of the island, I was more than happy to be returning after such a long time.
The most southern of the Saronic islands, Spetses’ original name was Pityousa, which means an area planted with pine trees. During the Frankish occupation, the Venetians renamed it Isola di Spezie – the perfume island – after the strong scent from the flowers and the pine trees, thus changing its name to Spetses.
We booked our accommodation while lunching in a city centre cafe in Athens, and realised we’d lucked out when we checked into our room at 7 Islands with its wonderful sea view and balcony overlooking the glittering ocean.
Located in a tranquil area in the southeastern side of the island and with bright, air-conditioned rooms, and an inviting swimming pool flanked by palm trees this no-frills, family-run guesthouse is understated but super-efficient, plus there’s a friendly resident cat to greet us each morning.
The staff, including the wonderful Tonya and her mother, cannot do enough for us and their traditional Greek hospitality ensures all guests feel right at home. Breakfast is a delicious Mediterranean affair. There’s no lunch provided, but you can order drinks from the hotel bar and a delivery to eat on your balcony, while taking in the panoramic views.
Our days were spent mainly lazing by the pool, while after sunset we’d wander leisurely down to the old town and port, often passing locals on mopeds with horses trotting beside them for their daily exercise.
One day we hopped on a local ferry for a scenic boat ride around the island, ending up at Ayia Anargyri, one of the prettiest beaches I’ve ever set foot on.
While there are bits that look vaguely familar, I feel that Spetses town has changed a lot. It’s moved with the times, of course, but it’s more upmarket with designer stores sprinkled around the maze of streets, and rows of pristine yachts bobbing in the pretty harbour.
Our laidback island break ended as it had started, with a free transfer down to Dapia port courtesy of the owners at 7 Islands, before catching our two-hour ferry back to Athens. This hidden gem of a hideaway was a real find, and we will most definitely return.
