Created by the Romans – who with their vast bath houses and intricately decorated villas certainly knew how to put the chichi into Chichester – this is an historic city of firsts that nowadays seems to have it all. Nestled between the rolling South Downs and the gorgeous West Sussex coastline, with the dreamy dunes of The Witterings just down the road, and boasting Britain’s only yew forest, it has been described as ‘sunshine in bricks and mortar’ by The Guardian and was named Best Place To Live in The South East by The Times last year.
Throw in a fascinating history, culture galore, a wonderful terroir for making a glass or two of Sussex, a very pretty city centre with a chic harbour to boot, and there’s not many places in the country, let alone the county, that can compete with the city the Romans called Noviomagus or new marketplace.
Fittingly, there is a farmer’s market on East Street every first and third Friday of the month. It’s on one of the Roman quadrants of streets – the others being North, South and West – which converge at the Grade 1-listed 15th century Market Cross, where farmers could once sell their eggs and vegetables toll free and sheltered from the elements.
Strolling through modern day Chichester is like walking through history. The City Walls are the most intact Roman walls in southern England, the Cathedral is the only one in the country with a surviving detached Medieval bell tower. If that’s not enough to impress, it has a Chagall stained-glass window, too, and a neighbouring, secret Bishop’s Palace Gardens. There are also green men – medieval sculptures not aliens –and contemporary architecture butts up against 17th-century cottages and Georgian townhouses in the city.
But it’s not just in looks that Chichester has the edge. It has depth, too. The culturally important Chichester Festival Theatre now boasts Justin Audibert, from London’s Unicorn Theatre, as artistic director while the inaugural one was Sir Laurence Olivier, no less.
And if it’s a Hamilton or a Hepworth you’re longing to see, step inside the internationally-recognised Pallant House Gallery, which is a celebration of British art housed in one of the most important 18th century townhouses in England. Pop in to take a look at a Damien Hirst, browse the book shop or drink in the arty atmosphere in the café.
If it’s culture of a different sort you’re after – the need for speed anyone? – you’re in the right place as Goodwood estate is just down the road. The Festival of Speed, which is one of the largest motorsport events in the world, roars into gear from 11-14 July while Qatar Goodwood Festival, the horseracing event previously known as Glorious Goodwood, is hot to trot from 30 July.
Families are well catered for with plenty of activities, watersports and outdoor events to keep them entertained. There are plenty of schools to choose from with Great Ballard School, a top independent school, taking in pupils from nursery until sixth form.
The surrounding countryside offers up a hiking trial through Kingley Vale National Nature Reserve that is so beautiful it is said to have inspired the hymn Jerusalem while Priory Park is the location of poet William Blake’s trial for sedition when he was supposed to have incited others to rebel with his ‘treasonable’ words in The Fox Inn in nearby Felpham. He was acquitted by a jury and later included his accusers and the judges into his poems Jerusalem and Milton.
All of this history, culture and natural beauty is no doubt why Chichester was named one of the happiest places to live in 2022 – and constantly tops polls as a chic city with the best of both worlds: the nearby coast and country in the west of the county.
FAMOUS FACES
This city has a veritable star studded cast of past and present residents with everyone from astronaut Tim Peake to Taskmaster’s Alex Horn having been born here.
Major Tim, 52, made history as the first British astronaut for the European Space Agency and also the first to spacewalk outside of the Internation Space Station. He studied at Chichester High School for Boys before beginning a career in the army air corps and then space.
Novelist Kate Mosse is from here and set her gothic novel The Taxidermist’s Daughter in the city and nearby Fishbourne. Known for her Labrinth book, Kate moved back to Chichester in 1998 when she became the first female executive director of Chichester Festival Theatre.
Funnyman Hugh Dennis, who plays Pete Brockman in BBC1 sitcom Outnumbered, lived in a village just north of the city with his wife Kate Abot-Anderson and two children before they split up.
Alex Horne grew up in the city before creating the award-winning TV show Taskmaster. He also has a comedic band called The Horne Section. Music must run in the genes here as Thomas Odell, who won a BRITs Critics’ Choice Award after releasing Songs from Another Love in 2012, is from here. He gained worldwide success with his album Wrong Crowd.
SHOPPING
With weekly markets, independent shops and designer boutiques as well as the High Street favourites, Chichester is the perfect place for a spot of retail therapy. Explore the city centre’s Harry Potter-esque twittens and pallants along which plenty of quirky stores with interesting finds are secluded.
The Grade II*-listed Corn Exchange on East Street houses furniture store BoConcept and, Space NK while booklovers will adore secondhand store Kim’s on South Street or Waterstones on West Street. There’s an eco-store Refilled Chichester on North Street where you can cut waste and your carbon footprint while Ripples Chichester on Southgate is the place for high end bathrooms. Be inspired by their luxury interiors or book a design consultation to make sure your bathroom makes a splash.
For jewellery, head to R L Austen, which has been a family jeweller since 1794 and is one of the oldest established businesses in the city. Browse a selection of contemporary and classic brands, pick out an engagement or wedding ring, Montblanc pen or luxury watch or simply browse for that special something – make it sparkly! – for an upcoming occasion.
If it’s art you’re after head over to The Little Art Gallery in nearby West Wittering where you’ll find stunning contemporary pieces by owner Linda Foskett and local professional artists. Along with paintings and prints, there are curated collections of textiles, ceramics, glass and jewellery.
And to keep your favourite prints, photos or treasured mementos in pristine condition – and to show them off in style – call into Bond-a-frame who are the city’s premier framing workshop. From wedding dresses to baby’s first shoes and a signed shirt from your favourite player – or gloves from your knockout boxer – they frame it.
FOOD AND DRINK
As it’s not far from the coastline in one of the sunniest spots in the UK and is surrounded by rolling chalkland, Chichester has the ideal conditions for growing wines and is rapidly becoming a wine hotspot. Two award-winning vineyards are on the doorstep for a glass of Sussex – yes we have our own PDO like Champagne and Bordeaux – and a visit to Tinwood Estate and Ashling Park are a must.
Along with tours, wine tastings, afternoon tea or dinner, you can even take part in taking in the harvest.
The Barn, Little London is a new restaurant that has already made a big impact on the food scene in Chichester. Creating dishes using local, seasonal produce and using small batch ingredients to minimise food waste, the restaurant celebrates local slow food and independent food brands. As well as serving up delicious food, they have a fleet of vehicles which collect and rescue surplus food in the region to make 75,000 meals a week for local, vulnerable people.
Goodwood’s Farmer, Butcher, Chef restaurant is another eatery that focuses on hyperlocal produce, this time on Goodwood farmed meat. Based at The Goodwood Hotel, the restaurant is a celebration of the lamb, beef and pork reared at Goodwood Home Farm. Serving up hearty Butcher’s Boards and a constantly changing menu that evolves with the seasons, you’ll travel further than your food!
MUST SEE
Kingley Vale Nature Park
Marvel at the grove of ancient yew trees at Kingley Vale which are said to be among the oldest living things in Britain and one of the finest yew forests in Western Europe.
Spot red kites, buzzards, and green woodpeckers soaring above the grove, and fill your lungs with fresh, country air as you explore the National Nature Reserve. The terrain can be steep and bumpy so isn’t recommended for wheelchairs. Work up an appetite or quench your thirst afterwards at the nearby Horse & Groom pub.
