Raising a glass of Sussex

This month it’s two years since the Secretary of State for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs approved the registration of the county as a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) for wine, giving it similar status to celebrated appellations, such as Champagne in France and Rioja in Spain.

The PDO means that still and sparkling wines can only be called ‘Sussex’ if they meet some strict criteria. For sparkling wine, this means it must be made in the traditional method (through second fermentation in bottle, like Champagne), from handpicked, predominantly classic sparkling wine grape varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) and aged in the bottle for a minimum of 15 months, before release.

Rathfinny, in Alfriston, was among the Sussex wineries who led the PDO campaign. Since owners Mark and Sarah Driver established the vineyard in 2010, it has grown from 50 to 230 acres of vines and it has been the couple’s mission that one day, you could walk into a restaurant anywhere in the world and be asked: ‘Would you like a glass of Sussex?’.

‘The Sussex PDO has helped raise standards across the UK and bring the debate about the English PDO to the top of the agenda,’ says Sarah. ‘A growing number of wine producers are now producing Sussex PDO wines, and this has also helped bring wine producers in Sussex together to work more collaboratively to promote wine tourism in Sussex.’

Spearheading the bid for a Sussex PDO is not the only reason Rathfinny, which celebrates the 10th anniversary of its first harvest this year, is considered a pioneer in the English wine industry.

The estate, which was the first sparkling wine grower-producer in the world to achieve B-Corp status, recently launched the UK’s first 50cl bottle of sparkling wine.

The Mini Cuvée is bottle-aged and fermented, unlike many half (37.5cl) bottles, which are generally filled by the transfer method from a larger bottle and therefore not considered to be of the same quality.

‘It’s the perfect bottle for those times when, as a couple, you fancy a glass of something special, but don’t think you’ll finish the bottle,’ explains Sarah. ‘It’s perfect for picnics, intervals at the theatre, and hotels are very interested to stock them in their rooms. It also appeals to the current consumer climate, with many looking to drink slightly less but better-quality wine.’

3 pioneering ‘Sussex’ sparklings

Rathfinny Mini Cuvée (50cl), £24.50

With picnic season upon us, this 50cl bottle of Rathfinny’s Classic Cuvée, is the perfect pour for an al fresco lunch. Containing four glasses (instead of the usual 6) of traditional method sparkling wine made from a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, it offers a sense of occasion on a smaller scale.

Nyetimber Cuvee Chérie, £37

Most traditionally-made English sparkling wines are ‘brut’ (meaning dry) but back in 2012, Nyetimber, in Pulborough, produced the country's first demi-sec style (medium-sweet) sparkling wine. The current iteration of Cuvee Chérie – named after Nyetimber’s head winemaker, Cherie Spriggs – is made from 100 per cent Chardonnay, has 38g/litre residual sugar and pairs well with puddings and savoury flavours from the Far East.

Ridgeview Sparkling Red Reserve, £55

First-time winner of WineGB’s Pioneer's Trophy in 2023, this limited-release sparkling red from Ridgeview in Ditchling Common is made from 100 per cent Pinot Noir and is rich with berry flavours and pops of pomegranate. While a sparkling red may seem a little leftfield, it’s a mouth-watering match for smoky dishes cooked on the barbecue.

Wine News

Tern, Johnny Stanford’s first floor fine dining restaurant situated in the Art Deco southern pavilion on Worthing Pier, is revered for supporting producers along the south coast.

Thought to be the only British restaurant with an English-only wine list, Tern is joining forces with Kinsbrook Vineyard in Thakeham, for a special five-course tasting menu with wine pairings on June 6. Vineyard owners Joe Beckett and Rebecca Dancer will talk through the stories of each of the wines and why they pair so well with the Johnny’s exquisite dishes.

Tickets cost £110, more info at ternrestaurant.co.uk