Let me take you back to an earlier time, when almost everyone shopped at the local market and visits to the local pub were a regular feature of family and community life.
Perhaps these customs never stopped for some, but the challenges of rising costs and significant changes in the way we live have strained the viability of local markets and pubs, making their presence on the high street vulnerable.
But here in Suffolk we can see how continuing efforts to maintain our traditional marketplaces give local entrepreneurs and artisan producers real access customers hungry for their products, and a platform to sell directly to their communities.
Town centre markets may have struggled recently – often as a result of depressed high streets – yet Suffolk Market Events owner Justine Paul says the county's artisan and farmers markets have never seemed busier. 'I think it's as simple as providing a good variety and quality of produce, and creating a really lovely market atmosphere. They are social gatherings as well as a pleasurable shopping experience.’
A visit to a local market can engender a real sense of pride; a feeling of being part of a community, and of making a contribution and being valued for it. Likewise, mixing with your friends, family and neighbours in a local pub creates a warm positive feeling, a sense of belonging, of comfort, of community. It's a sense of being with your tribe – very resonate at Portman Road right now. We’re all here, having a good time together.
Two great examples of that local spirit come together for this Market Masterclass. We shine a light on a market that has battled through Covid to become a true community asset and a magnet for great Suffolk producers, and a pub that has succeeded simply by offering local people a warm, friendly place to meet, eat and drink.
Hadleigh Market
Five years ago this market was probably no more than two or three traders and didn't reflect the heartbeat of the community. Roll on to spring 2024 and there are regularly upwards of 15-20 local artisan stalls selling produce high in quality and variety.
Popular stalls include award-winning freshly baked bread, sourdoughs and pastries from Wooster’s Bakery; locally made chutneys, cordials, cakes and sausage rolls from The Pickled Jam Company; a fantastic range of fruit and vegetables from Carl Jones; David Coote’s fresh fish and seafood; locally brewed real ales from Drinkstone Ales; and a range of garden plants and cut flowers from Vegelicious of Hadleigh.
There are fresh regional cheese and home-made pies from Hoskyn’s Deli; ice cream and sorbets from Simply Ice Cream; fudge and cakes from Woodland Bakeaway; tasty treats for your four-legged friends from Boos Barking Bakery; and Love Refills selling a wide range of refillable household products.
Local produce, all made, grown, caught, cooked or baked within miles of the town. Local people are supporting local businesses by buying direct from those based in Hadleigh and the surrounding area.
The market also provides a wonderful place for people to meet up, which is so valuable in a world where social isolation is increasingly recognised as a health risk. Most common to see is a group of friends and family catching up over a cup of fresh barista coffee from Anthony’s Suffolk Coffee Hub. We shouldn’t be surprised – Hadleigh’s been a market town since 1252. This long tradition of a local market being the hub of a town's social and business culture is an important one; it’s a key part of keeping high streets vibrant and supported.
The Shoulder of Mutton
Just a few miles from Hadleigh, Assington's village pub is a fine example of a local that serves its community by being good at what it does. Head chef Ian Webber was born and raised in Halstead, but lived and worked in Sudbury for much of his life.
Like many chefs, he discovered the job when looking for some casual work and found he really enjoyed the buzz of a busy Saturday night and the camaraderie of the kitchen. He worked at the Bulmer Fox then joined the previous owners of the Shoulder of Mutton to help out with functions. He loved working at the pub so much that he stayed.
'I enjoy the smaller kitchen and focusing more time on a smaller menu,' he says, 'and over time the menu has been moulded by what the locals and regulars want, especially as our locals don’t hold back on feedback or suggestions!' Sharing charcuterie boards and the original tapas menu have now evolved into a range of starters, and Ian has introduced a new lunchtime menu with a greater range of quality sandwich options for people with less time and a limited budget.
The menu offers good quality, traditional pub food, plus specials and different options at weekends, including Sunday roasts. These have been a huge hit, something of which Ian is very proud. His tip for the perfect roast? 'Simple – great roasties and fantastic gravy are the key elements.’
Crucially, the Shoulder of Mutton delivers on service, making customers feel welcome and at home, exemplified by manager Totty Linguard. He is the always smiling, welcoming host who makes you feel you are in their front room. Totty has time for all her customers; she knows her regulars' drinks before they even reach the bar and always make sure there is local ale on tap. Mauldons Brewery features heavily among the pub's award-winning ales, plus an excellent and affordable wine list.
Totty also keeps an eye out for her team, who are loyal and consistent; it's always a sign of a good manager when the same team stays in place for a long periods. Pubs like this should be celebrated because food and drink served in this kind of positive environment tastes better. Totty and her team help the community to feel connected – where else would you find a thatcher, a retired insurance broker, the local MP, a charity worker, a policeman, a photographer and a farmers' market organiser all happily chatting about everything and nothing?
MARKET TO MENU
Shoulder of Mutton head chef Ian Webber uses a selection of ingredients sourced from Hadleigh Market to create two simple dishes that could kindle some warmth at your table
Garlic & Chilli Prawns recipe
Serves four
Ingredients
400g raw Tiger prawns
2 red chillis, finely sliced
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
300g salted butter
1 sourdough baguette
bunch of parsley, chopped
Place to the prawns, chilli, garlic and butter in a pan and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently. They're done when they turn a nice pink, in just a few minutes. Add the chopped parsley and mix before dividing the prawns equally between four bowls, making sure each bowl has a good amount of the garlic and chilli butter. Slice the sourdough and serve with the prawns.
Goat cheese burger with beetroot relish recipe
Serves four
Ingredients
4 brioche buns
400g goat cheese sliced into four (approx. 1 inch thick)
1 red onion
160g castor sugar
160ml of red wine vinegar
300g grated cooked beetroot
salt and pepper
2 eggs, whisked
200g breadcrumbs
200g plain flour
rocket
Start by making the relish. Slice the onion and cook in oil over a medium heat for about five minutes. Add the sugar, vinegar and beetroot, season well and bring to the boil. Turn down the heat and simmer for approximately 20 minutes, or until all the liquid has gone. Set aside.
Panee (fry in breadcrumbs)the goat cheese. Place the flour, two eggs and the breadcrumbs in three separate bowls. Coat each goat cheese slice first in the flour, then in the eggs and then in the breadcrumbs. Deep fry the slices until golden brown. Set aside on kitchen roll on a plate to drain excess oil.
Build the burgers between the two halves of each brioche bun, starting with the relish, then adding rocket and finally the goat cheese.
WHERE & WHEN
Hadleigh Market, The Market Place, IP7 5DL
9am - 1pm, every Friday
The Shoulder of Mutton, The Street, Assington, CO10 5LJ
Weds - Sat, 12pm - close; food served 12pm - 9pm
Sunday 12pm - close; food served 12pm - 4pm
