With a menu that’s imaginative, delicious and full of surprises, the Greyhound Inn, Pettistree, is one to choose for a special occasion.
The car park of The Greyhound in Pettistree was full to bursting when I arrived at the tail end of a busy Friday lunchtime. It’s a good sign in these tough times and testament to the new patrons who’ve already got themselves something of a following.
The Greyhound is one of those old Suffolk village pubs, tucked away up a lane, that would once have been the place to while away an evening, catching up on the local news/gossip, over a pint and a game of darts. Poke your head inside and you’ll find it still retains some of that character. New custodians Will Orrock, who worked in advertising, and partner Cassidy Hughes, an interior designer, have been careful with their refurbishment of the old inn.
Will and Cassie, together with chef Harry Mckenzie and wine buff George de Vos, were friends in London before deciding to escape city life to pursue their shared vision of running a rural inn. Will grew up in Suffolk so it was a natural place to start their search for the perfect property. He wants to keep The Greyhound close to its roots, creating an ambience that feels timeless. There is fresh paint, new lighting, the bar’s been opened up a bit, but not much else. It’s comforting and comfortable.
The food is what Will has called ‘countryside cooking’, a description open to interpretation, of course, but best translates as food from the land (and sea) in a daily menu that’s updated every morning depending on what’s available. I ate a salad of winter greens with shaved artichoke, dressed anchovy oil. It was a fresh and subtle prep for my main course of brill with mussels and salsify. The brill was meaty and substantial, perfect for a winter lunch. Salsify is a terrific winter root vegetable, mild and artichoke-like in flavour, with a slight crunch if cooked al-dente. A good foil for the fish and shellfish. Why don’t we use these simple ingredients more?
Talking of simple, I chose rhubarb sorbet for dessert, a punchy pink globe in a silver dish, and made a sneaky mental note about what to do with my rhubarb crop this year. Harry makes everything from pickles and preserves, sauces and stocks, drawing on the skills and knowledge he’s acquired in some top kitchens, including the River Cafe. Will says they’re already forming good relationships with local suppliers such as Mike Warner at A Passion For Seafood, which enables them to build their daily menu around local, highly seasonal produce.
Mine was an alcohol-free lunch but wine is an important part of the offer at the Greyhound. George has created a wine list, built around producers with an ethos of being as natural and ethical as possible. This means wines from smaller makers and not big co-operatives. There are also ciders and hand-pulled cask ales, and beers on keg, mainly from local breweries.
Some may challenge the notion that The Greyhound is ‘country pub’ (a quick glance at Tripadvisor confirms this), but a pub can be many things these days. City and town pubs are bars; many village pubs are closer to restaurants. Pubs have to evolve and in a rural county like Suffolk, it makes sense that some will become destinations for foodies. The Greyhound isn’t cheap - it’s probably a place you’ll choose for a special occasion. But if you enjoy good local, seasonal food, imaginatively prepared and cooked by a talented chef, and served by friendly patrons - and you expect to pay a bit more for it – you should give it a try.
greyhoundpettistree.co.uk
From the menu
Bitter Leaves and Anchovy Dressing £9
Pigeon Terrine and Prune Mustard £11
Cavatelli and Gloucestershire Old Spot & Suffolk Saffron Ragu £14
Cime di Rapa & Cow’s Curd Ravioli and Sage Butter £12
Main
Lamb Sweet Breads, Parsnip Purée, Bacon and Sage £26
Welsh Black Beef Rib, Dripping Potatoes, Braised Onion, Horseradish and Watercress £30
Roast Turbot, Mussels, Leeks, Cider and Dulse £32
Violet Artichoke & Cannellini Bean Stew, Croutons and Aioli £23
Dessert
Chocolate & Cocoa Nib Tart and Crème Fraîche £9
Apple & Calvados Tart and Cultured Cream £9
Rhubarb Sorbet £6
Milk Ice Cream, Walnuts and Honey £7
St Helena, Poached Quince and Oat Cakes £10
