Under new ownership with and with an energetic new chef, the refurbished Bell at Sax is ready to welcome guests and diners
Nearly a year after closing its doors, The Bell Hotel in Saxmundham has re-opened with new owners and a bright, fresh new look. The Bell was acquired by family-run Beales Hotels in spring last year, and now every part of the hotel, including the lounge, bar and restaurant has been renovated. Guests can book for dining, as well as a stay in one of the seven bedrooms.
Ashley Beale heads up the operation and has worked with local companies, including Cotton Tree Interiors and Brooks Architects, on a sensitive refurbishment of the property, themed around The Bell's location close to the coast. Executive chef Garry Cook has been working his magic in the kitchen, enlisting some of Suffolk’s best suppliers, and even bringing his home-grown produce to the table.
Originally from Northumberland, Garry has worked throughout Suffolk during his time here, including a spell at Hintlesham Hall and almost five years as co-owner of 152 in Aldeburgh. He then took on The Crown at Snape, with his wife, until just before lockdown.
He says no expense has been spared in creating a modern, state of the art kitchen at The Bell, knocking down a couple of walls to open up the space and installing latest technology. He's looking forward to welcoming diners and working with local producers he’s come to know and respect over the years.
The Heath dining room seats 26, and guests can also eat in The Coast bar, the lounge, and eventually on the outdoor terrace. A private dining room for eight is included in phase two of the renovations. Food is available every day from breakfast, to morning coffee and cake, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner.
Garry says the breakfast menu is currently short and sweet, offering a full English with Salter & King bacon and sausages, a continental-style buffet, smoked salmon and eggs on toasted sourdough, porridge with Hillfarm honey, and boiled eggs with sourdough soldiers.
The main menu runs through lunch and dinner, with the chef putting his own stamp on British and European classics, and strongly featuring Suffolk ingredients. Snacks include Butley Creek oysters, served classically with shallot vinegar, or with a touch of citrusy ponzu gel. There’s Harvey & Co bread with Fen Farm raw butter, smoked almonds, and homemade pork scratchings. "Light and crispy," says Garry, "so they don’t break your teeth. We dust those with cider apple vinegar powder so you get a really intense flavour.”
Garry is happy to be serving Lowestoft-made Sunday Charcuterie amongst the starters. “I met them at Aldeburgh food festival," he says. "I liked the look of their stuff, brought some home and thought it was really really good, so we have some of their meats on with cornichons and olives. Simple, but very high quality." There's also seared smoked haddock, served with a crispy hen’s egg, leeks and a wholegrain mustard cream.
“And with it being winter, we’ve got some game on as well – a pheasant terrine. For that we confit down the legs and cook the breasts sous vide, then layer it all up and serve with some medlar jelly and pickled green tomatoes. I had so many tomatoes in my polytunnel this year. I was searching for a recipe to use them all up and found this pickle. It’s very nice.”
Vegetarians have a choice of glazed goats’ cheese with Garry’s homegrown beets, toasted sunflower seeds and beet gel; his own Jerusalem artichokes, cooked into a creamy soup with pickled mushrooms, white truffle oil and sourdough croutons.
The main courses are quite classic; steak - Salter & King’s grass-fed, Suffolk beef - with mushrooms, vine tomatoes, onion rings and triple cooked chips; fish and chips - cod in a gluten-free batter, with triple-cooked chips made with the best Maris Piper potatoes, and a smooth puree of mushy peas; monkfish tail wrapped in pancetta, served in a winter broth with haricot beans, root and sea vegetables; partridge with parsnips, sprouts, a redcurrant and Port gel, and confit legs. And there’s a burger made with minced rump and chuck steak, layered with Emmental cheese, gem lettuce, homemade burger sauce, homemade pickled cucumbers, and red onions, piled high in a soft bun from Harvey & Co.
For dessert diners can choose from a plate of three to five East Anglian cheeses - Norfolk Dapple, Baron Bigod, St Helena, Binham Blue and Norfolk White Lady - lemon posset with blackberries and shortbread, sticky toffee pudding, and a very special chocolate marquise. The kitchen team also make their own ice creams and sorbets.
Afternoon tea includes traditional finger sandwiches, scones with cream and jam, and cakes such as a brownie, tea loaf and lemon curd tart, with unlimited tea or coffee.
Garry is delighted to be working with Ashley. "He’s young and forward-thinking and we get on very well," he says. "Hopefully The Bell will become the place to go in the area.”