Gluten-free foodie hot spots around North Somerset

When I was diagnosed with coeliac disease earlier this year, I found myself thrust into a brave new world. The extent to which it was about to affect my life didn’t hit me at first. The doctor’s clear instruction that I could never eat gluten again didn’t fully resonate for several weeks.

Gluten is a protein found in wheat, barley and rye, ingredients found in a surprising number of foods once you start looking for it. Yet, despite being a lifelong foodie, I was surprisingly cool, calm and collected. I made it my mission to be distracted by the novelty of the supermarket ‘free-from’ aisles, and the virtuous feeling of upping my whole food intake by approximately 1 million per cent. Then I realised that it’s all well and good in your own kitchen where you can control exactly what ingredients you are playing with, but eating out is an entirely different ball game.

Coeliac disease is surprisingly common – Coeliac UK estimates around 1 in 100 people have it – yet its still not that well understood. Perhaps this is because those who have it feel, like me, slightly awkward about it. Like, by saying we can’t eat gluten, we are going to be seen as fussy or difficult. I know coeliacs who simply avoid eating out but, it being one of my favourite past times, this is absolutely not going to be me. I am on a mission to navigate being gluten-free out in the big wide world. Starting with my home county of Somerset.

Happily, Somerset’s foodie credentials are pretty impressive, home to an excellent choice of eateries of all descriptions. I live in the north of the county, close to Bristol, which is renowned, not only for its vibrant culinary scene, but also for its inclusive culture. An encouraging combination for anyone in my shoes.But first things first, I wanted to know what the offering would be like on my doorstep. Just a short walk from my home in Portishead is The Royal Inn. I had heard good things about its new menu and so I booked in for Sunday lunch.

The Royal Inn at Portishead, where head chef Dominika is coeliac Photo: The Royal Inn On arrival, I was furnished with a dedicated gluten-free menu and thrilled to see so much choice. From the selection of tastily-described starters, I was tempted by the pork, apple and cider terrine and the wild garlic mushrooms, and we could have happily grazed our way through the Cricket St. Thomas Camembert for two, however, having already eyed up the roasts on offer, I knew I would be quite literally biting off more than I could chew (or at least digest…).

All the usual suspects were present; pork loin with crackling, sirloin of beef, turkey breast (with a bonus pig-in-blanket giving off early festive vibes) and, for the indecisive, a trio of all three. My companion and I both opted for the headliner – a rib of beef, slow cooked for hours and served on the bone. This, as with all the above, came with garlic and rosemary duck-fat potatoes, herb roasted carrots, greens, Yorkshire pudding and gravy. And, because we saw it and couldn’t pretend otherwise, we decided to share a side of (gluten free, obviously) cauliflower cheese too.

The gluten-free sundae was the perfect end to the meal Photo: Laura Tomlinson Our server hit the right balance of being aware of, and knowledgeable about my requirements, without turning ordering into a highly sensitive military operation, which can sometimes be the case. While we waited for our food to arrive, I enjoyed a glass of sparkling Chapel Down English wine (‘is there gluten in wine?’ was the first thing I Googled when I was first diagnosed!) and took in the surroundings. Despite the restaurant being fully booked, the atmosphere was warm and relaxed. We were sat in the new restaurant extension, an attractive glass box attached to the original exterior. While lacking in personality somewhat, the décor was attractive, and our table had a great view over the garden and estuary beyond.

The arrival of our mains felt like a big moment; with both of us ordering the same dish but from different menus, it would be abundantly clear if I was about to be short-changed in any way. As it was, both plates were similarly stacked high and mine looked every bit as appetising. The only real difference was in the Yorkshires; one enormous pudding for my companion was matched with three notably more conservatively-sized puddings for me. Everything on my plate was delicious and cooked to perfection – again, there was no sense that my dish was anything less than my companion’s and the fact that I was not penalised was an absolute joy. It felt indicative of the consideration paid by the chef to ensuring the gluten-free experience, while different, matched up. I later discovered why this might be the case; the head chef, Dominika, is actually coeliac herself.

On to puddings, and now confident in the knowledge that my fellow-coeliac, Dominika, would not let the gluten-free offer fall short, I was excited too see what was on the menu. Of the good handful of options, the chocolate fondant brownie, white chocolate ice cream and dark chocolate dome sounded more than a little exciting, but then so did the caramelised vanilla cheesecake (cheesecake being somewhat of a rarity in the gluten-free world).

Luckily I didn’t have to decide as the sundae offered a mix of both, layered up with clotted cream and chocolate ice cream, whipped cream and salted caramel sauce. My companion dutifully ordered the same but from the standard menu, and you would have been hard-pushed to tell them apart. It was, quite honestly, one of the yummiest puddings I have eaten in a long time – gluten or no gluten – and a fabulous way to round-off a thoroughly delicious first gluten-free Sunday roast and excellent start to my eating out mission. chefandbrewer.com

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More Gluten-free foodie hot spots around North Somerset

The Architect, Bath

Occupying the ground floor of the beautiful Grade II listed Empire Hotel, overlooking Pulteney Bridge, The Architect is as impressive inside as it is out. I have lunched here before becoming gluten free and always enjoyed the grandeur of the surroundings and good quality food. I was therefore happy to discover that it is Coeliac UK accredited, and offers a wide selection of gluten free and gluten free adaptable dishes. brunningandprice.co.uk/architectbath

Salt & Malt, Chew Valley

As the website blurb states, great fish and chips are what us Brits are famous for. But if you’re gluten free, getting your fish supper isn’t as simple as popping down to the local chippy. That’s why I am chomping at the bit to get down to Salt & Malt in the Chew Valley, where the batter is gluten free as standard, and they use separate fryers to avoid cross-contamination. saltandmalt.co.uk/chew-valley/

Cosy Club, Bath, Bristol and Taunton

Again, I have eaten at the Cosy Club in the past but not since going gluten free. A well-known family-friendly chain, I am told they cater exceptionally well for for coeliacs, with a wide range of gluten free options. The online menu is easy to navigate and it is obvious they take dietary requirements seriously, which means you can sit back, relax and enjoy being out. cosyclub.co.uk

Scoozi, Clevedon

So far in my gluten free journey, I have yet to enjoy a decent pasta dish, which is why I am excited to try Scoozi in Clevedon. The stylish Italian restaurant on the popular Hill Road cooks all its pasta dishes fresh to order, allowing them to accommodate gluten free variations. While the pizzas are sadly all gluten-based, the rest of the menu offers numerous options, including some delicious-sounding grilled meat and fish dishes. scooziclevedon.co.uk

Pho, Bristol

Asian food can be a bit of a minefield for those who can’t eat gluten, but this Vietnamese street food chain has made gluten free eating part of its philosophy. Practically everything on its menu – including puddings – is gluten free and accredited by Coeliac UK. The food is virtuously healthy and looks amazing, while the vibe is apparently super-relaxed. It is also kid and dog-friendly. phocafe.co.uk