‘Over the years a lot of customers have suggested that I write a cookbook,’ Charlie says. ‘It’s finally happened and has turned out to be a lot of fun.’ With a focus on ‘fuss-free and flavourful’, the book shares more than 100 recipes divided into chapters include Standing-Up Starters & Drinks, Sitting-Down Starters, Mains for Two, Four or Six, Mains for Many, Vegetable Sides & Sharing Plates and Puddings.
‘I’ve included all my favourite recipes from home that have been refined over the years and have got the thumbs up from family and friends alike,’ he says. There are Charlie Bigham’s classics that customers will recognise such as fish pie, chicken tikka and lasagne as well as some surprises including a quick baba ganoush with toasted pitta and rabbit ragù pappardelle.
A confirmed foodie, with a love of cooking which started in childhood, he founded his business in 1996 following hot on the heels of an English literature degree, a stint as a management consultant and travelling through Europe to India in a campervan with his girlfriend, Claire, (now wife).
In 2017 a second kitchen was added to the business with the opening of the eco-designed Quarry Kitchen in Dulcote, which won the RIBA South West Building of the Year award in 2018 . Named after the site in a disused stoneworks in the Mendip Hills just outside Wells, it was the result of a lengthy hunt for what Charlie calls ‘a little bit of magic’: a characterless unit on an industrial estate was never going to hit the mark. It is full of natural light and designed to be ‘an inspiring place to work, as well as super-efficient’.
The kitchen has been a real boost for Wells and the surrounding area, providing employment (approximately 300 jobs at last count) and apprenticeship placements to attract school and college leavers. The company has also thrown itself into the community, balancing profit with purpose and actively contributing to the enrichment of the surrounding area.
An example is its ongoing relationship with Wells Food Festival, including Headline Sponsor of the festival for the last four years. ‘As a celebration of the fantastic independent producers of the South West there is no better place to immerse yourself into all things foodie,’ he has said of the company’s involvement. ‘I like to think of Wells as the food capital of the South-West!’
Which brings us back to his new cookbook which outlines his must-have kitchen ingredient essentials, from fridge items to spices. Everything is easy to cook, full of flavour and, ‘in keeping with how I like to cook, can be made without any fuss while having a good chat (and maybe a drink) with whoever happens to be with you in the kitchen,’ he says. ‘I’m hoping that the book will inspire people to try cooking a few things they may not have cooked before — and have a great time doing it.’
One thing is for sure: with glorious photography throughout by David Loftus, and styling by Charlie’s wife Claire, Supper with Charlie Bigham is set to become a kitchen classic, with dishes you will turn to again and again.
As soon as I catch the first glimpse of autumn, my culinary thoughts inevitably turn to warming, slow-cooked stews. I love the summer for all its abundance and freshness, but there’s something deeply comforting about cold walks, log fires, red wine and a delicious, well-cooked beef bourguignon!
We make what I think is a pretty tasty recipe at Charlie Bigham’s, so I thought I'd share my home version. The secret is to start with some good-quality beef: if you are going to the butcher, ask for chuck, but if you’re buying in the supermarket, look out for braising steak. I recommend buying a whole piece and cutting it up at home so you have some nice chunky pieces. Delicious accompanied with Parsnips with Garlic, Thyme & Honey, and Savoy Cabbage with Chestnuts.
Feeds: 6
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 2½–3 hours
1kg (2lb 4oz) braising steak
50g (1¾oz) plain flour
50g (1¾oz) butter
50ml (3½ tablespoons) olive oil
½ bottle (375ml / 13fl oz) red wine
100g (3½oz) pancetta lardons, or bacon lardons
3 red onions, cut into wedges
1 celery stick, finely chopped
5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
450g (1lb) chestnut mushrooms, quartered (no need to peel)
2 tablespoons tomato purée
3 teaspoons Dijon mustard
500ml (18fl oz) fresh beef stock
10–12 Chantenay carrots, topped but left whole, or 3 regular carrots, chopped into 6cm (2½ inch) pieces
Rosemary sprig
A few thyme sprigs
2 bay leaves
170g (6oz) jar of Borettane onions (or other pearl onions) in vinegar, drained
Sea salt flakes and freshly ground
Black pepper
Small bunch of flat leaf parsley (about 20g / ¾oz), leaves roughly chopped, to serve
First you need to cut up your beef into good-sized pieces (about 7–8cm / 3 inches). Put half the flour in a mixing bowl, season well with salt and pepper and tumble the meat in this so it is well coated.
Melt the butter in a frying pan with the oil and cook the floured meat on both sides over a high heat for 5–7 minutes, or until browned – do this in two batches to avoid overcrowding the pan, putting the meat to one side once cooked. Deglaze the pan with some of the wine, scraping up the tasty bits on the bottom of the pan. Set the liquid aside with the cooked meat.
Meanwhile, start preparing your sauce. Heat the remaining butter and olive oil in a casserole dish. Add the pancetta or bacon and cook for a couple of minutes so it starts to release its fat. Add the red onions and celery and cook for 5 minutes or so, until the vegetables have softened, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and mushrooms and cook for another 10 minutes or so, stirring occasionally.
Sprinkle the rest of the flour into the pan, then stir in with the tomato purée and Dijon mustard.
As the mixture cooks, preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan (350°F), Gas Mark 4.
Tip in the rest of the red wine, then the beef stock and give everything a good stir before adding the carrots, herbs and drained onions.
Finally, add the beef plus the pan deglazing juices.
Bring to the boil, then cover the casserole dish, put it in the oven and cook for 2–2½ hours, stirring every 30 minutes or so, until the meat is tender. You can take the lid off for 30 minutes towards the end of cooking to slightly thicken the sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Finish with a scattering of parsley.
Charlie Bigham Baked figs with spiced honey & ricotta recipe
Sometimes you just want something simple for pudding. I love figs and they tend to be readily available in the late summer and autumn, a time of year when they are also good value. A fresh fig picked off the tree is a delight in itself (and probably best eaten straight away), but shop-bought figs tend to be smaller, have slightly thicker skins and are easily elevated by a quick burst in the oven with a few other flavours thrown in that show them to their best advantage.
Feeds 6
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Cooking time: 25–30 minutes
50g (1¾oz) light muscovado sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
12 figs
50ml (3½ tablespoons) Madeira, or other sweetish booze you have spare
4 rosemary sprigs
250g (9oz) ricotta cheese
100g (3½oz) walnut halves
4 tablespoons runny honey
Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan (400°F), Gas Mark 6.
Mix together the sugar and cinnamon in a small mixing bowl.
Starting at the stem end, cut the figs halfway down in a cross shape.
Arrange your cut figs in a single layer in a baking dish and sprinkle the cut surfaces with the sugar and cinnamon. Sprinkle with the Madeira and then toss the rosemary sprigs on top before baking for 25–30 minutes, or until the figs are soft and the juices have run to make a delicious sauce.
Once the cooked figs come out of the oven, spoon clumps of your ricotta over the top, scatter on the nuts and drizzle the whole dish with the honey. Best served warm.
Tip: To really bring out their flavour, you can lightly toast the walnuts in the oven for five minutes while the figs are cooking, but don’t forget them! Leave them to cool before breaking over the figs.
