You know you’ve reached somewhere prestigious when you can cruise along the driveway in third gear. You also know you’re heading somewhere special when that driveway is lined with oak trees and has glorious views over the Somerset Levels with Glastonbury’s Tor in the middle distance.

The approach to The Walnut Mill is as noteworthy as the man who lives there and, also as exclusive as the produce which is coming into fruition from these very lands later this month. The month of October for Proprietor, Roger Saul marks the occasion of the shaking of the 300 organic walnut trees in his orchard as they have matured, ready for harvest.

Roger may best be known as the founder of the iconic designer handbag brand, Mulberry but since his enforced departure from the label 20 years ago, his business focuses have been rooted at his family homestead based at Sharpham Park, near Walton. By working collaboratively with organic farmers all over the country, Roger switched his attention from designing luxury leather goods to producing over 1000 tonnes of organic spelt per year. And, by milling the grain on site in Somerset, Roger produced the highly sought-after Sharpham Park Spelt Flour; a brand that was coveted in the UK and abroad.

Roger may best be known as the founder of the iconic designer handbag brand, Mulberry but in latter years, his business focuses have been rooted at his family homestead based at Sharpham Park, near Walton. Roger may best be known as the founder of the iconic designer handbag brand, Mulberry but in latter years, his business focuses have been rooted at his family homestead based at Sharpham Park, near Walton. (Image: Sharpham Park) The Covid pandemic saw sales boom; everyone was, after all, at home baking bread, but then came Brexit which saw export fees rocket and the subsequent and devastating closure of the mill. It was time for Roger to pivot again, and the timing serendipitously coincided with the maturation of the walnut trees which he had planted some twenty years ago.

On the day that I meet Roger and his wife Monty, the sun is shining, and I have just got a tad lost wandering around the farm buildings. There’s a lot of building work going on and Roger along with his loyal Jack Russell, Mingo find me rambling amongst the piles of hamstones which are waiting to be laid as he and Monty repurpose the old flour mill into their new home. ‘After the closure of the spelt business last year we divided up the estate; selling our 15th-century manor house ‘next door’ and we moved in here; the site of the old mill. Our friend, Kevin McCloud {the TV presenter from Grand Designs} said it’s one of the best new-build industrial buildings he’s ever seen.’

A 350g presentation box can be purchased via sharphampark.comA 350g presentation box can be purchased via sharphampark.com (Image: Sharpham Park) When completed, the Saul family home will be an upside-down house with the first floor benefitting from the expansive views across the countryside whilst the ground-floor bedrooms will embrace the pre-existing architectural arches and benefit from a landscaped garden and patio which lead down to a large duck pond and, crucially, be just a few steps away from the walnut orchard. ‘I decided to plant the orchard after discovering a ‘monk’s lunch’ of a walnut, chicken bones and a scallop shell lime-plastered in the wall of our old manor house. Every farm in Somerset had a walnut tree in the past, the roots love the clay soil in our county so, in line with my ethos for growing organic produce, and during my careful restoration of the park, we planted seven varieties of walnut. No one grows organic walnuts in the UK and it’ll certainly take them a while to catch up with me now!’

Roger explains how it takes a good twenty years for a walnut tree to bear fruit. His first true harvest in 2022 bore a mini haul, whereas last year he benefited from a two tonne (gross) harvest. This year Roger is predicting three tonnes from the orchard, with the October harvest being a community hands-on affair as his friends, family and grandchildren are invited to the orchard to help. And, akin to the wassailing celebration familiar with apple orchards, Roger will also honour the event with ceremonial gunshots.

There are seven different varieties of walnut planted at Sharpham Park. There are seven different varieties of walnut planted at Sharpham Park. (Image: Sharpham Park) ‘It is believed that the common walnut was introduced to our shores by the Romans. Our ancestors saw the similarity in shape between the walnut and the human brain and subsequently ate walnuts to cure headaches’ Today, the health benefits of walnuts are vast with many nutritionists recommending the consumption of walnuts to help reduce high blood pressure, and lower cholesterol. ‘A Spanish study published earlier this year found that the eating of walnuts can also help with the prevention of Alzheimer’s’ says Roger. ‘British epidemiologist and doctor, Tim Spector says ‘Walnuts are a powerhouse of omega-3 fatty acids and polyphenols, crucial for improving gut health and reducing inflammation. These benefits support brain health and could play a role in preventing Alzheimer’s disease’. I wonder if perhaps the Romans knew more than we give them credit for?

The benefits of the walnut are not just limited to the nut inside; the shells and the husks have multiple qualities which Roger is already exploring. ‘We have an artist nearby, Cat Lewis, who loves to use ‘walnut ink’ from our husks to dye fabrics – in fact we were featured on BBC Countryfile a few years ago where we demonstrated how fresh husks create a natural dye which is safe for both skin and respiratory health. And, we are also looking at how the shells can be crushed to create a ‘grit’ which is often used as an emulsifier within beauty products. I’d love to see us make walnut oil one day too.’

At its peak, Sharpham Park was producing 1000 tonnes of organic spelt per year. Now the focus is turned to organic walnuts. At its peak, Sharpham Park was producing 1000 tonnes of organic spelt per year. Now the focus is turned to organic walnuts. (Image: Sharpham Park) As Roger tells me about the tradition of pickling early walnuts on St Swithin’s Day (the shells aren’t too hard then), Monty brings us coffee and a dish of last year’s walnut harvest for me to sample. With most of the walnuts in UK supermarkets being imported from China, Turkey and the US, it feels momentous to be eating a walnut which has grown just 50 metres away in a Somerset orchard.

I may not be a certified food critic, but to me these Somerset walnuts have a rich creaminess with a momentary and welcome tang of bitterness on the after-taste. They are without doubt incredibly moreish and if I wasn’t in company, I certainly wouldn’t be so restrained! Stocked with Riverford, Teals, The Newt and Hauser & Wirth, Sharpham Park’s walnuts have already developed a reputation for their quality and flavour, and knowing that they are grown without synthetic pesticides or fertilisers means that they are better for both our health and Somerset’s natural environment.

‘Somerset is a thriving county and we’re so fortunate to have lived and worked here for so many years. We’ve spent our lives creating things; whether its Mulberry, Charlton House or Kilver Court or flour here at Sharpham Park. Monty and I have been good at embracing each and every bit of life that comes along. We have lived and breathed this land and now we’re excited to be recreating Sharpham Park again.’

Sharpham Park's walnuts are available in key outlets across the county or can be purchased online direct. Sharpham Park's walnuts are available in key outlets across the county or can be purchased online direct. (Image: Sharpham Park) Get Cracking!

Sharpham Park’s walnut varieties are: Franquette, Buccaneer, Broadview, Fernette, Lara, Fernor and Chandler. You can purchase a 350g presentation box of Somerset-grown organic walnuts for home delivery direct from sharphampark.com.