When Lexa Hunt and David Bailey moved to the sleepy north Somerset village of Wraxall in search of a quieter pace of life, little did they know they’d end up tending to the county’s oldest vineyard. The couple, who previously lived in Hammersmith and had run and successfully grown businesses in the financial sector, had no viticultural experience between them. However, after the six-acre vineyard next to their home went up for sale and whispers begun that the land could end up being used for a different commercial purpose, the entrepreneurial duo stepped in. 'We knew absolutely nothing about winemaking but hated the idea that these historic vines could end up being grubbed up and the land used for something else, so we felt we had two choices – move or buy the vineyard ourselves,' says David who describes living in Somerset as 'inspirational'.
Wraxall Vineyard was first established in 1974 and for most of its existence was owned by Raimund Herincx, one of the great Wagnerian opera singers of the 1960s and 1970s, and his wife, Astra Blair. However, when it became too much for them to manage, they sold it to new owners in 2007. When Lexa and David bought the vineyard, in 2021, the six acres of Bacchus, Pinot Noir, Pinot Noir Précoce, Chardonnay and Seyval were in need of some TLC, and the couple began a programme of rejuvenation, regeneration and modernization with the help of Dr Alistair Nesbitt and Joel Jorgensen from vineyard management consultants, Vinescapes. Sustainability has been central to this – they have planted cover crop to encourage biodiversity and promote better soil health and fertility meaning there’s no need for synthetic fertilisers. The project also included replacing the vineyard’s Seyval vines with Pinot Meunier, to enable them to make English sparkling wine using the same blend as Champagne. Much of the day-to-day vineyard management is entrusted to Stevie Potier, who has tended to the vines at Wraxall for over 10 years, while Ben Smith, a contract winemaker at Itasca Wines in Hampshire, makes the wines. 'From September, we just become caretakers of the grapes and Ben starts to really watch them,' explains Lexa. 'We take grape samples up to his lab every week and he starts to tell us what he wants us to do with the grapes and when we should harvest. It’s a really critical moment.'
Wraxall is set to release the first of its traditional method English sparkling wines later this year. In the meantime, they have focused on still wines and currently produce a rosé, made from early ripening Pinot Noir, and two Bacchus wines, a fresher style made in stainless steel and another which has been matured in oak barrels. The latter – the 2022 Bacchus Reserve – won a gold medal at the 2024 WineGB Awards and was one of only four English wines to be given a 'standout' mention. 'To win a gold in our 50th year is a massive achievement and one we are all very proud of.' comments David. While making ‘seriously good’ wine is top of the agenda, Lexa and David recognised at an early stage that wine tourism was a critical component of the economics of the vineyard. 'When we first bought the vineyard, we loved nothing more than taking a bottle of wine up to the top of the field, where we have some benches, looking down over the vines and surrounding countryside and talking about where this project could go. That was the inspiration for building The View at Wraxall,' explains Lexa.
The contemporary and architecturally inspiring, glass-fronted restaurant and tasting room is positioned to make the most of views over the vines and 25 miles of countryside beyond. It attracts visitors from miles around, as well as locals who enjoy pizza pop-ups, supper clubs and acoustic music events at weekends.
Earlier this year, they also completed renovations on the vineyard’s former winery, transforming it into residential cottages and enabling them to accommodate up to 14 guests.Visitors to the vineyard have increased dramatically in the years Lexa and David have taken over – from 600 in 2021 to over 5,000 last year – and they are also set to plant a further three and a half acres of vines next year. However, David vows to keep the essence of this boutique vineyard alive. 'We said right at the very beginning we want to produce the highest quality wine, we’re not interested in mass-production,' he adds. 'But we do want to share this wine, this vineyard, and this dramatic view we have here with others. It’s truly very special.'
wraxallvineyard.co.uk
FUN FACT
The definition of Wraxall is a nook of buzzards and the vineyard has four families of buzzards that can often be seen soaring across the vines.
3 more Wine GB award-winning Somerset vineyards (and wines to try)
Aldwick Estate, Redhill
The family-run Aldwick Estate is the largest of Somerset’s vineyards and is set on a hillside in the Chew Valley overlooking Blagdon Lake. Among the many awards the estate picked up this year, Aldwick received a gold and silver award respectively for its 2022 vintage Woodlands Oak Bacchus and Pinot Noir at this year’s Wine GB Awards.
aldwickestate.co.uk
Oatley, Bridgwater
Oatley is one of the few second-generation vineyards in England. Iain and Jane planted Madeleine Angevine and Kernling vines to make white wine between 1986 and 1989 after dropping out of corporate life in London and their very first wine from the 1990 vintage won an international award. Over 30 years later, their son, Ned, and his wife, Paula, have taken over, planting new Pinot Noir and Cabernet Noir to make red and rosé. Oatley Leonora’s 2018, won silver at the WineGB Awards.
oatleyvineyard.co.uk
Fenny Castle Vineyard, Worth
Situated right on the edge of the Somerset Levels, Fenny Castle Vineyard was planted by James and Gill Cumming in 2011 and 2012 with Bacchus, Ortega and Pinot Noir Vines. Their wines win awards year after year with their Pinot Noir Rosé picking up silver at WineGB 2023.
fennycastlevineyard.co.uk
Rebecca Pitcairn is a wine writer and host of The English Wine Diaries podcast. Rebecca interviews people in the world of wine about how a love of wine – particularly that made on British soil – has helped shape their lives and careers.
englishwinediaries.co.uk.
