When we relocated from foodie hotspot Bristol to South Somerset a couple of years ago, I’ll be honest, I did not envision Michelin-rated, city-style dining on my doorstep. The occasional outing to an outstanding gastropub or local boozer, perhaps yes, but I never imagined having one of the West Country’s newest and now consistently-lauded culinary hotspots just a short stroll away. Somewhere I can go for Friday night cocktails with the ladies and feel like we’re cosied away in the midst of buzzing town nightlife, rock up at a Sunday afternoon terrace party for phenomenal tapas and Balearic vibes, or pop in for a refined, truly delectable meal of a lunchtime or evening.
I am referring to Holm, in the picturebook hamstone village of South Petherton. Chef director, Nicholas Balfe, of former Brixton institution, Salon, and successful bistro, Levan, swapped city life for the Somerset countryside, and opened Holm in November 2021. Its star has been rising ever since, and two years on from its launch, has unveiled seven ensuite bedrooms.
The area
Holm, named after the evergreen oak and the acoustic parallels with ‘home’, occupies a former merchant’s house and bank in a South Somerset village that is as pretty as they come; all thatched roofs, wisteria-clad cottages, Dickensian-esque lampposts, octagonal church and golden hamstone buildings which gleam when the sunlight hits. Despite its rural location, the village combines both chocolate-box appeal with a plethora of amenities, including a butcher, bakery, pub, florists, cafes and boutique shops. You can also stroll out into open countryside from the door, yet be on the A303, one of the main routes linking London and the east of England to the South West, in a mile or so.
This, plus Balfe’s London renown and a growing pile of glowing write-ups, has prompted patrons, in the naughty habit of skipping over Somerset on their way to Devon and Cornwall, to factor in Holm as a gourmet stop-off en route. It’s equally popular with locals after a slap-up meal, or a bottle of wine and a light bite. With the addition of the sleeping quarters, Holm makes a strong case for pausing in Somerset, full stop, particularly for lovers of food-fuelled staycations.
The rooms
On arrival, we are greeted by friendly waiting staff, one of whom leads us up the polished concrete staircase behind the old bank vault - now a wine cellar - to the new rooms. After a slew of excellent reviews, all seven are fully-booked on the night we're staying.
A hunger-inducing whiff of dinner lingers in the air as we’re given a brief introduction to our loft accommodation, Rowan (rooms also follow the British tree-naming theme). I’d tuck into the salted chocolate cookies that have been left as a welcome gift, but I don’t want to spoil dinner. Windows have been opened and you can peek out at the quiet village square when perched on the window sill.
Nicholas worked with local interior designer Decca Lang on the seven guest rooms and the style is simple and homely. Attention to detail here reigns supreme, right down to the screws in the electrical fittings, which my husband excitedly points out are all facing the same way, (vertically). The bedrooms evoke Scandi chic, but local creatives, artists and makers have infused Somerset flavour into many elements. Muted and earthy organic British fabrics grace the bed and carefully-chosen artwork adorns the walls, complemented by new, old and bespoke furniture - some crafted by local Tortie Hoare, other bits sourced from auction houses and markets.
Up here in the eaves, whitewashed beams criss-cross the ceiling, a vase of dried flowers adds a gentle touch, two fluffy bathrobes hang beside the in-room egg bath and woollen blackout drapes promise morning sun-blocking rest. A separate bathroom with zellige tiles and a rain shower, is equipped with sustainable seaweed-based Haekels products, which smell divine.
The mini bar is a thing of curated consumable joy. Stocked with local produce, among the drinks you’ll find milk in a bottle, beers from Bristol, Honey Pot Farm apple juice and a dram or two of Holm Negroni - made with Cynar (an artichoke-based bitter aperitif in place of Campari) and a dash of Somerset Cider Brandy 'Pomona' - an apple eau de vie bottled with fresh apple juice.
For families, booking Rowan together with Hornbeam opposite, means you can have the whole floor at the top of the building to yourselves. It’s also worth noting, due to the age of the building, there are no accessible bedrooms, although the dining room downstairs is wheelchair-friendly.
Guest spaces
A communal studio on the first floor with a large window and lots of natural light, overlooks the outside bar and BBQ area. Residents are encouraged to bring a drink from the mini bar or from the bar downstairs, to enjoy there before dinner, or just cosy down with a book.
In the warmer months, meals and drinks spill out into the courtyard terrace, which is planted with borders of lavender and rosemary. A small barn in the garden has been converted and classes ranging from pilates to yoga will be held there later in the year.
The food
My first introduction to owner Nicholas Balfe’s food was back in the summer of 2021, at a pop-up event at nearby Burrow Hill Cider Farm. Bagnell Farm lamb slathered with salsa verde on sourdough and cabbage slaw was my order, and my gosh it was good. The scene was set for what was to come from him and Holm - supporting local producers, fostering community spirit and serving lip-smackingly delicious food with exceptional ingredients.The food at Holm has been luring fine dining pilgrims off the A303 and into South Petherton ever since it opened.
We perch for drinks at the counter overlooking the open kitchen, watching the chefs at work - one is busily slicing 400g of Meadowlea Farm sirloin. The chef’s tasting menu is a tempting steal at £69, but witnessing the expert meat prep has sealed the deal for our meal choices and we opt for the aforementioned sirloin sharing dish, served with pink fir potatoes and oyster mushroom from the à la carte menu. To this, we also add salt fish beignets with chilli mayonnaise, terrine, and fluffy Westcombe cheddar fries - the latter are quite simply, a must. A menu staple due to their popularity, it’s not unheard of for locals to come in for a bottle of wine and a plate of these (me). It’s a slight over order as we can’t find room for pudding, but each bite is heavenly. As is being able to finish dinner and totter upstairs to plonk down in bed afterwards.
Breakfast the next day is a three course affair, starting with homemade granola, apple compote and yoghurt. From three hot options, I choose oak smoked trout with a crispy hash brown, boiled egg, house-made condiments, greens and sourdough toast. Breakfast pudding caps it off - a homemade cinnamon brioche. Honestly the best ‘hotel breakfast’ I think I’ve ever had - sublime from start to finish, and the service, as always, is immaculate - personal, warm, friendly, efficient and altogether faultless.
Nearby
The Newt and Hauser & Wirth are half an hour away, and a wealth of Somerset must-sees even closer. Time your visit with one of Burrow Hill’s Cider Bus Saturdays to quaff cider alongside scrummy food in the orchard. Afterwards, climb the hill for spectacular 360-degree views over Somerset.
Wander over to Frogmary Farm or the cottage gardens of East Lambrook, take in the scenery at Ham Hill or visit National Trust properties, Barrington Court, Montacute and Tintinhull.
Staying
Rooms start from £149 midweek, breakfast included, and there is no minimum stay, but be quick - they’re proving very popular!
