Beside the Willows: an idyllic rural getaway in Itteringham

Verity was nine years old when she first moved to Mill Cottage in Itteringham with her late mother, Sue. As a single mother from London, Sue was a thrilling addition to 90s north Norfolk village life and was instantly ushered into my mother’s wide and welcoming friendship circle. Sue’s love of dogs, wine, along with her quick sense of humour and generosity brought comfort and companionship to my family, and my mother considered her a true friend. There were frequent dog-sitting exchanges, car breakdown rescues and endless cheer and sympathy in times of grief or joy and many memorable late-night kitchen table drinking sessions, both at Mill Cottage and our childhood home, Bintry, on the other side of the Bure.

Sue’s annual laid-back ‘Grand National’ parties at Mill Cottage were widely anticipated and a big favourite with my mum, the chaotic village sweepstake bringing everyone together (dogs and children always included and especially so if adorned with ribbons). Sue, sporting a jaunty battered Panama, a great tan and often a bicycle, was (to the surprise of some) given to roaming off to India and beyond, seeking a spiritual yogic adventure long before it became Instagrammed and de-rigour. Despite her love of wandering, she always returned to her sanctuary by the river and to her friends. Mill Cottage, much like Sue herself, is a place which through Verity’s gentle guidance, continues to remain both magically private, yet welcoming to all.

There's a gorgeous outside seating area for warm, summer days and evenings. (Image: Verity Carder) The 16th century house is hidden behind the water mill, which itself dates from the Domesday Book, having been converted into a residential property by Lord Walpole in 1938. Mill Cottage originally housed the millers, but went on to serve as both a respite for the US army men during the Second World War and acted as a tearoom in the 1960s. Now, the cottage and its seven acres of woodland and water meadows sit quietly as a family home with two unique spaces for those wanting to escape the furious pace of modern life, aptly named Beside the Willows.

Verity and her husband Kristian, a professional carpenter, had been living in Hindolveston with their two daughters, until they took on Mill Cottage when Sue died suddenly in 2020. Family and friends scattered Sue’s ashes over the water meadows beyond the house, and the gentle ceremony on a hazy sunlit afternoon was the perfect way to say farewell, Sue’s bicycle adorned with flowers, her Panama hat and ‘Gone to the Pub’ sign hanging from the handlebars.

The living area in The Annex. (Image: Verity Carder) Verity remembers her instinctive decision on moving home after Sue’s death. ‘I couldn’t imagine having done anything else, all my memories are here, it’s my home and where my heart is. I couldn’t have turned away from that. It would have been like losing mum 100 times over. By keeping the house, she is still here.’

To sustain the 300-year-old cottage financially requires constant work, so by 2021 and after sandblasting back the patchwork of beams throughout and creating more practical space for the family of four, Verity and Kristian decided to transform the old playroom into a one-bedroom riverside annex for guests, with French doors overlooking the river, and due to its beautiful surroundings called it Beside the Willows. The flat has its own spacious open plan kitchen, sitting room and bathroom, a private outside terrace overlooking the Bure and steps down to it for paddling, a Cedar sauna box, outdoor shower and separate entrance.

Beside the Willows has its very own cedar sauna. (Image: Verity Carder)

Verity sees the creation of Beside the Willows as an organic process and manages every detail from start to finish, while Kristian is brilliant at making her ideas physically come to life. ‘Kristian can see the possibilities in everything, he’s really practical minded, and I love sourcing interesting things and creating spaces for people to enjoy, so it’s a wonderful combination.’

The couple went on to create the Train Carriage, restored and crafted by Kristian from part of the cottage estate, where the carriage once housed tack for horses and ponies from the riding school that was there in the 80s. The rustic train carriage is charming, comfortable and full of character with reclaimed furniture and a few quirky personal touches; a giant wooden fish hangs from the wall, celebrating a catch by Verity’s grandfather, and the stools are from the high school in Fakenham, while the door is milled from their own woodland alder, and the bathroom sink houses a cleverly repurposed Mason Cash mixing bowl. The cabin is enclosed in its own garden, sleeps two guests and has its own kitchen and bathroom, wood burning stove and riverside seating area.

The Train Carriage starts to take shape. (Image: Verity Carder)

Surrounding the carriage is around three acres of woodland to explore, with the river curving above and little mown pathways for adventuring, as well as a central firepit and seating area for larger groups or gatherings.

At the top of the track and staggering distance is the Walpole Arms, which is incredibly pretty, serves great food and has its own gin distillery.

If you fancy cooking for yourselves, the community run village shop has everything you need, plus a cafe. For those wanting some extra luxury or wellness additions, Verity offers guests staying at the riverside annex or cabin the opportunity to book a couples massage with Emilie (from Wild Yoga Norfolk, and a certified Ayurvedic and Thai massage therapist) and is soon to host a Women’s Sound and Sauna Circle, with her friend Gigi, a women’s empowerment and wellness mentor. Perhaps this could see the start of a series of lovely wellness group gatherings at Beside the Willows.

A fire to keep guests cosy. (Image: Verity Carder) This riverside retreat is somewhere to switch off, sip your coffee and watch the trees dance their shadows over the Bure, catch a glimpse of a heron lifting its giant grey wings as it takes flight from a meadow, or even the electric blue zap of a kingfisher, as it flashes downriver. There is a certain light that truly entices stillness and rest.

Verity adds: ‘I love that people come here and are a visibly struck with awe by their surroundings. It’s a natural progression of what mum so adored about this place and the seclusion and sanctuary that she felt here, and one that we feel privileged to be able to share.’

Verity has created a haven of relaxation (Image: Verity Carder) Verity and Kristian have built Beside the Willows as a sensitive companion to the river and surrounding wildlife and in respect of Sue’s memory, and all she loved about the place. I think she would be very proud.