We’re inching towards winter and the colder months. It’s always nice to have a hot starter, or an indulgent but simple small dish for this time of year. I have the perfect option in these lobster fishcakes. People think of lobster as this premium, expensive ingredient, just to be enjoyed in the summer. But when you’re buying it at the right time, and in the right season, you can get a decent feed out of a lobster – if you’re buying now, at the right time of year, it will work out cheaper than a good steak. Also, if you don’t use all the lobster meat in one meal, this dish is also really good for using up the rest as a sort of leftover, if you will.
November is a really good time to source and eat shellfish. Lobsters prefer cooler waters, meaning they are thriving more in the winter months, which means you get a much better price on them, too. I go to Mayers fishmongers in Blackburn who get the vast majority from Cornish waters, as you would typically expect, but some also come from Morecambe Bay.
I prepare the lobster from scratch but, if that isn’t for you, you can get decent lobster meat from good fish suppliers. For those who are a little nervous about preparing shellfish, you’re cooking the fish twice, so you don’t have to worry as much about getting it completely nailed at first because there is plenty of opportunity to cook the fish through. This is a dish to get stuck in and give it a go.
The fennel brings a nice crunch and freshness, with a bit of aniseed flavour to cut through the richness of the dish and dressing it up a little bit with lime juice brings a nice acidity.
The sauce makes it a versatile recipe, too. The sauce itself is delightful and can be served with a nicely cooked piece of fish as well. Any decent fishmonger will have some form of shells around, whether it be prawn, lobster, or langoustines that you can then use in the sauce recipe.
It’s also a lovely dish for a dinner party or as you start to think of those get-togethers before Christmas or even for Christmas Day. The fish cakes can be made ahead of time and then popped in the freezer and then you are ready to roll with a special, indulgent starter for your big festive feast.
Lobster fishcake, coconut bisque and fennel
Ingredients
For the fishcake
500g dry mashed potatoes
1 lobster, meat of
3 sprigs of coriander, chopped
1 lime, zest of
2 eggs
100ml milk
Plain flour
Breadcrumbs
For the coconut bisque
Shells from 1 lobster
500ml quality fish stock
1 carrot
1 shallot
1 stick of celery
1 quarter of a fennel
1 bay leaf
2 tbsp tomato puree
1 tomato
200ml white wine
50g butter
200ml coconut milk
Method
For the lobster
First, kill the lobster by placing a knife through the head. Add to a pan of simmering water and cook for around seven minutes – for a 600g lobster.
Chill the lobster and remove the shell from the body and claw. Reserve the lobster shells to make the bisque.
For the fishcake
Cook the potatoes in a pan of salted water and mash them. Add the lobster meat, lime zest and chopped coriander and allow to cool. Once cool shape into hockey puck shapes.
In three separate mixing bowls: Add flour to one bowl, eggs and milk to another (whisked together) and breadcrumbs to a third. Add the fishcakes to the first bowl of flour, lightly dust off and add to the eggy mixture, then add to the breadcrumbs, repeat the process a second time.
Once the fishcakes are well coated in breadcrumbs, they are ready to deep fry at 170 degrees for around three minutes, until they have turned golden.
Alternatively, you can shallow fry them in a frying pan with a good amount of vegetable oil.
For the bisque
Dress the shells in rapeseed oil and roast until golden at 180 degrees for around 15 minutes, turning from time to time.
In a large pan, sauté all the veg, apart from the tomatoes and puree, until cooked down but not coloured, add the tomatoes and puree and cook out to fondue stage, add the wine and reduce.
Add the shells and cover with fish stock. Bring up to the boil and allow to simmer for 20 minutes, pour the stock through a sieve and add the coconut milk and butter.
For the fennel
Slice the fennel finely and dress in a little lime juice and olive oil then place next to the fishcakes on the plate, to finish.
