Food is as much a part of the history of a place as the events that shape it. A new book by food writer and historian Carol Wilson shares recipes old and new that showcase the county’s food heritage
‘The North West is a region of beautiful lakes, mountains and dramatic coastline,' says food historian Carol Wilson. 'Northern dishes were devised with hard-working people with big appetites in mind. They tend to be hearty and are often based on economical ingredients. Hardy breeds of sheep, chosen to withstand the cold and wind of the uplands, dot the hills and moorlands. Butchers’ shops sell choice local lamb which goes into classic dishes such as Lancashire Hotpot and shepherd’s pie. It’s also black pudding country. The sausage shaped puddings vary in texture and taste according to their maker with secret recipes abound.
‘In the region’s dairy industry, the lush pastures of this region mean there is plenty of milk to make fine cream butter and cheese. Lancashire cheese has been made since the early 1900s and has a soft, crumbly texture ad buttery flavour. Fishing has always been important to the region, with the industry centre in Fleetwood and Morecambe Bay is famous for its small brown shrimps.
Lancashire is also one of the few areas sheltered enough to grow vegetables. Varieties are chosen to suit the harsh climate, especially potatoes, root vegetables and some salad plants.
‘It’s also a region home to a host of special cakes and pastries, such as Eccles cakes, those lovely flaky pastry cases stuffed full of currants, sugar and spices. Gingerbread has been made in Grasmere since the mid-19th century – the shop is still there. Dense, chewy treacle toffee is popular too – Everton toffee is c risp and flavoured with lemon whereas Kendal Mint Cake, the strongly peppermint flavoured sweet, is taken on treks as a source of instant energy.’
£25, Lorenz Books, ISBN 9780754835462.
Goosnargh cakes recipe
These rich little biscuits come from Goosnargh, near Preston. Although their origin is unclear, they were baked for Easter and Whitsuntide. Caraway seeds were a common ingredient in 16th and 17th century recipes, as they were believed to aid digestion. Strangely, it was also believed caraway seeds discouraged the eater from stealing.
Makes 15
Ingredients
175g butter, plus extra for greasing
200g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
50g caster sugar, plus extra for sprinkling
1tsp coriander seeds
1tsp caraway seeds
Method
Grease two baking trays.
Rub the butter into the flour in a bowl until well combined. Stir in the sugar and seeds and work to a fairly dry dough.
Roll out onto a lightly floured surface, about 5mm thick and cut into round using a 6cm cutter.
Sprinkle with sugar and place on the baking trays, leaving room for the biscuits to spread. Leave to stand for at least two hours. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4.
Bake the biscuits for 10 – 15 minutes until pale golden. Cool on the trays for at least 15 minutes before removing carefully to a wire rack to cool completely.
Hindle Wakes recipe
The curious name of this cold poultry dish may derive from Hen de la Wake – in Lancashire dialect a ‘wake’ was a fair. A medieval Lancashire recipe, it is believed to have first been brought by Flemish weavers to Bolton-le-Moor, near Wigan, in 1337. It is always served cold.
Serves 4
Ingredients
1 chicken, weighing 2.25kg/5lb
90ml/6tbsp white wine vinegar
4 springs fresh parsley
4 sprigs fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
1 tbsp light browns sugar
Salt and pepper
For the stuffing
450g ready-to-eat prunes
2tbsp finely chopped fresh mixed herbs
2 tbsp blanched almonds, roughly chopped
Salt and pepper
For the sauce
600ml chicken stock (see method)
25g butter
1.5 tbsp flour
Grated zest and juice of one lemon
150ml double cream
To garnish
Lemon slices and zest
Chopped fresh parsley
Method
For the stuffing, chop about half the prunes, reserving the rest for the garnish. Mix in the herbs and almonds, and season to taste. Pack into the prepare chicken (checking for and removing any giblets inside) securing the vent so the stuffing cannot escape.
Put the chicken into a large pan with enough water to just cover the legs. Add the vinegar, herbs and sugar. Bring to the boil, cover and reduce heat. Simmer for 1.5 to two hours, until the chicken is cooked, and no pink juices remain when pierced with a skewer between the breast and leg. Remove the chicken from the pan and place on a wire rack over a tray to become cold.
For the sauce, skim the fat from the pan and strain the chicken liquid into a measuring jug. Melt the butter in a pan and stir in the flour over a low heat until blended but still pale. Gradually whisk in 600ml of the strained stock.
Cook gently, stirring constantly for 15 – 20 minutes until the sauce is very thick. Add the lemon zest and juice, and season to taste. Set aside to cool.
Whisk the cream until thickened and fold into the cooled sauce.
Place the chicken on a serving dish. Spread the sauce over the whole chicken, using a palette knife dipped in hot water for a smooth finish.
Garnish the chicken dish with the remaining prunes, plus lemon slices, parsley and grated lemon zest.
Obscure Lancashire dishes: Pea wack and Tharf cake
5 Lancashire foods that only Lancastrians would know about
Lancashire Recipes - Butter Pie
Lancashire recipes - Chorley cakes
Traditional Lancashire hotpot recipe
The famous hotpot was traditional cooked in a farmhouse or communal bread oven, in time for supper at the end of the day. The ingredients would have been layered straight into the pot, but here the meat is first browned to add colour and extra flavour to the dish.
Serves 4
Ingredients
8-12 lean best end of neck lamb chops
175g lamb’s kidneys, skin and core removed and cut into pieces
1 – 2 tbsp oil
2 medium onions, thinly sliced
Few sprigs of fresh thyme or rosemary
900g/2lb potatoes, thinly sliced
Salt and ground black pepper
600ml lamb or vegetable stock
25g butter, cut into small pieces
Method
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F, gas 4. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and brown the lamb chops quickly on all sides. Remove the meat from the pan and set aside.
Add the kidneys to the hot pan and brown lightly over a high heat. Lift out.
In a casserole, layer the chops and kidneys with the onions, herbs and potatoes, seasoning each layer.
Finish off with a layer of potatoes. Pour over the stock, sprinkle with more herbs and dot the top with butter. Cover, put into the oven and cook for two hours. Remove the lid, increase the oven temperature to 220°C/425°F/gas 7 and cook, uncovered for a further 30 minutes until the potatoes are crisp.
