If I tell you Eight at Gazegill is a hidden gem you will probably be expecting me to reveal some secret known only to a select few gravy-spattered gourmands. But this newly-opened farm restaurant really is a gem. And it is hidden. Boy, is it hidden.
Things went swimmingly until we turned off the A59 at Gisburn and then, confronted with a labyrinth of twisty lanes and a fleet of dirty great tractors, I started to question if it was worth the effort.
I’m pleased to report it was worth every missed signpost, every three-point turn and several moments spent shouting at Nanny SatNav. “You have reached your destination.” “Oh no I ****** haven’t!” You must bear in mind that I get lost going to the bathroom so don’t be put off. You would be missing something special.
As regular readers of Lancashire Life will know, Gazegill has been farmed by the Robinson family for almost 500 years. Today, it is in the inspiring hands of Emma Robinson and Ian O’Reilly who use many of the techniques employed by Emma’s great-grandparents to produce outstanding, flavoursome meat.
Many talk about provenance, sustainability, diversity, nose-to-tail, footprint blahdy-blah. Emma and Ian have been there, done that and have the t-shirts to prove it. After racking up umpteen farming awards, they have taken a potentially tricky new direction by opening Eight, a modern dining destination that takes all the brilliant ingredients from the farm next door and turns them into some pretty whizzo dishes.
The restaurant is itself a thing of beauty. It looks like a giant gin gan, those horse-powered roundhouses used by horny-handed farmers in days of yore. The floor to ceiling windows flood the room with light and reveal some of Lancashire’s finest views, including our beloved Pendle Hill. There is also outdoor seating. In one corner of the restaurant, the open kitchen displays talented chefs at work under the direction of Doug Crampton, formerly head chef at James Martin Manchester.
READ MORE:
They produce an imaginative menu for brunch and an all-day version that’s more substantial, plus they do late week dinners and Sunday lunches.
I’m a sucker for a scotch egg and the one in front of me had a running yolk encased in black pudding and pork with a curried mayo that carried a tangy hit. I shared it reluctantly. Its partner in the snacks department were two aged beef fat hash browns, crispy fingers of shredded potato with a melt-in-the-mouth beef tartare topping. It was a good start.
I went for two small plates so cider battered cod cheeks were next to appear. I thought about telling the waiter: “I like your cheek” but that would be a rubbish joke, wouldn’t it? These were generous pieces of fishface with a seaweed tartare sauce and salty fingers, a sea vegetable related to samphire but much juicier and recommended by all good mermaids.
Next came barbecued lamb shoulder tacos, nicely made little discs of flatbread slathered in tender shredded lamb and topped with an outstandingly good foraged herb salsa verde. If you plan to go native when eating this, I’d suggest wearing an apron if you can get it over your sombrero. It’s juicy.
While I tucked into the small plates, my guest had barbecued monkish tail which was strikingly served on the bone and happily swam around in a small sea of caramelised onions and a shoal of delicious Morecambe Bay shrimps. Don’t tell my dietician, but all of this came with a dish of dripping chips.
While meat is much to the fore – aged veal and bone marrow burgers and home smoked bacon cutlets are for next time – vegetarians wouldn’t be too miffed if served organic burrata, wood roasted asparagus and hens of the woods with garlic risotto. They also do veggie menus for dinner service and on Sundays.
It was a serious dereliction of duty but we passed on the puddings. Homemade ice cream, rhubarb and meringue and spit roast pineapple will be saved for another day.
It was all nicely served by well-drilled, smiley staff who never once looked like calling us ‘guys.’ With a couple of local beers, the bill came to just over £70 for two. An added bonus is the farm shop next door where you can take some of their marvellous meat home.
Apparently, Emma and Ian named the restaurant after the eight festivals of the Pagan calendar that celebrate the importance of soil. I suspect they might eventually change it to Ten to reflect the rave reviews they’re already getting.
Eight at Gazegill, Dancer Lane, Rimington, BB7 4EE. 01200 445519. eightatgazegill.co.uk. They’ve just opened and have restricted opening hours so check before you travel – and maybe take a map!
