I didn’t know whether to write this review. An odd thing for someone who writes about food to say, I know, But Now or Never, a secret dining spot in Lancaster, is a bit of a hidden gem, literally. And I’m not sure I want to share.
Tucked down Sun Street, the only indication the intimate, 20-cover restaurant is behind the heavy black door of the Georgian building is a small brass plaque. There are no showy displays or over the top branding, no clues it is there. It’s exactly what you’d not expect from one of the county’s newest and most exciting dining spots.
But subverting the senses is what dinner at Now or Never is all about. It’s all the work of chef patron Jeff Marshall and restaurant manager and co-founder Nichola Marshall, the couple behind the award-winning Kitchen by Journey Social, the brunch, coffee and all-day dining spot in New Street in the city.
They are a formidable pair. Jeff has worked internationally, as a private chef on a luxury super yacht, catering for the rich and famous, including multi award-winning actors, musicians and European royalty. Nichola, a foraging expert, specialising in British and European wildflowers and herbaceous edibles, has also set her sights on joining the ranks of the Court of Master Sommeliers. They’ve spent five years building their reputation with Journey Social but had always wanted a fine dining destination. And in Now or Never they have done it.
The starting snacks are beautiful savoury beetroot macaron filled with salt-baked beetroot gel and duck liver parfait, using Himalayan salt chamber aged duck from Morecambe. Another marvellous mouthful, ‘beef’, a mini choux bun burger with braised and pulled Cumbrian beef cheek from Coniston’s Yew Tree Farm transports you to the stews from your childhood, so rich and flavour packed.
On it went. Course after course a love letter to Lancashire and British produce. Tartare of chalk stream trout from Fleetwood with pickled golden beetroot cubes from Tarleton; Stornaway black pudding with caramelised shallots, apples pickled with tarragon vinegar and a pork pie infused crème Anglais – be still my beating heart – and Isle of Gigha halibut cooked so delicately and accompanied with an orange wine sauce split with parsley oil: heaven.
Then came the bread course. I wasn't sure when it was suggested I might want to reserve the baked brioche with butter from Newby-based Winter Tarn Dairy. I half-joke, of course. And a wise recommendation it was as the soft, buttery brioche was ideal for scooping up the juices from the Lyth Valley venison loin and shoulder, the showstopper on the 12 course tasting menu.
Three dessert courses, a cherry sensation in a pastry shell; a peach and pistachio semifreddo and a ginger tuille topped with blackberry gel, pickled blackberry cubes and sweet picked ginger. The fourth dessert ‘artichoke’ was two tiny baked chocolate cones filled with Jerusalem artichoke cream and finished with artichoke dust. The balance of savoury and sweet delivering the final cartwheel for the senses.
Now or Never, the name reflecting the use of ever-changing and hyper-seasonal ingredients, is the restaurant Lancaster needs. With head chef Oliver Parry at Jeff and Nichola’s side, and a skilled front of house team, there are promising times ahead for the restaurant and the city’s diners. It may be a hidden gem but Now or Never is a restaurant that is too good to keep quiet about.
The 12-course menu is priced at £80 per person. A matched wine pairing is £45.
journeysocial.co.uk
