Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume at Cartmel has been given a third Michelin star, making it the highest ranked restaurant in the north of England.
Just eight restaurants in the UK have three stars in the 2022 guide to the world’s best places to eat – the other seven are in or near London.
Making the announcement, Michelin said: ‘What has elevated his flagship restaurant to achieving the ultimate award is his constant striving for improvement and his desire to enhance his guests’ experience with a little refinement here and a tweak there. The result is that L’Enclume has matured into a proud and highly accomplished restaurant.
‘There is now quite an extraordinary level of finesse in every dish. Flavours linger long in the memory. The kitchen is practiced and focussed. Techniques are clever and, combinations, inventive and original. But however clever the construction, nothing gets in the way of allowing the ingredients to shine.
‘The young, professional service team work with obvious pride and have a clear understanding of what makes a great restaurant. The atmosphere is warm, welcoming and inclusive; there isn’t a hint of arrogance or complacency; and every guest leaves feeling that they have been treated to something truly special.’
Simon, who is celebrating L’Enclume’s 20th anniversary this year, said: ‘You could say it’s fantastic timing that we’ve received this news 20 years since I opened the doors of L’Enclume, which feels like forever but also just like yesterday.
'Following the win of our second star nine years ago, achieving a third star has always been front of mind and something we’ve been striving for every day; be it through the evolution of our dishes and honing of our service-style, the meticulous work undertaken on Our Farm, or how we work to make every one of our guests feel, from when they enter the restaurant to the moment they leave.
'We might have grown our operation over the past two decades, but we’ve remained true to our core ethos and maintained the close-knit community feel amongst our team, while all this time proudly remaining as an independent restaurant group. This is an incredible week for us all and it’s going to take some time for it to truly sink in, but we will be celebrating this moment for a long time to come.’
L’Enclume received its first Michelin star in 2005 and its second star in 2013, holds the number one spot in the UK Good Food Guide and a score of 10/10, five AA Rosettes, as well as two Michelin green stars, for L’Enclume and Roganic Hong Kong.
Although Simon was a keen home cook, when he was young he dreamed of a successful career in football and thought his job in a Greek restaurant in his home town Southampton was stop-gap until he made his name in the Premier League.
During his time at the Greek restaurant he admits his confidence may have got the better of him. And then things changed.
In an interview with Lancashire Life Food Editor Emma Mayoh as the country emerged from lockdown, Simon said: ‘The Greek restaurant was run by two brothers, who basically showed me the good life. I thought I was absolutely brilliant. I was earning a decent wage and living the life.
‘Then I went to catering college and I realised everyone there was far better and more experienced than me. The guys had already worked in some of the great country house hotels in the New Forest. I was earning a lot less and also not doing very well. It was a leveller. I was competitive, so I decided to become the best chef I could.’
And boy, has he done that. He has worked with big names including Marco Pierre White and Jean Christophe Novelli and in 2002 he opened L’Enclume and a string of successful restaurants which have attracted countless plaudits, rave reviews and awards.
Also honoured in the 2022 Michelin guide was The Dog and Gun Inn at Skelton near Penrith which has been awarded its first Michelin star. It was opened in 2017 by Nathan Cornwell and has previously been awarded a Bib Gourmand and two AA stars and has been named among the UK’s Top 50 gastropubs.
Nathan Cornwell’s Barn at Aughton has also been awarded a Michelin star and its two star sister restaurant, Mark Birchall’s Moor Hall has been given a Green star. The eco award was introduced last year to honour restaurants which Michelin say ‘offer dining experiences that combine culinary excellence with outstanding eco-friendly commitments’.
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Lisa Goodwin-Allen, Executive Chef at Northcote, a Stafford Collection Hotel which retained its Michelin star in the 2022 guide, said: ‘I, and the team at Northcote, are extremely proud to have retained one Michelin star at this year's Michelin reveal.
‘To retain our star all these years is such a huge achievement and one I'm really proud of. We strive to always maintain a high level of consistency, and I believe that's what Michelin look for. Despite all of the challenges we have faced over the past year, we have been able to maintain that consistency and we've done it in true Lancashire spirit, providing a dining experience that people really enjoy. The team deserve huge recognition for this, they work tirelessly day in, day out. I am very grateful to each and every one of them.’
