A couple of miles south-east of Brockenhurst in a tranquil hill-top setting is one of the loveliest of New Forest churches. The Church of St John the Baptist, Boldre, situated above the Lymington River valley well away from the village itself, dates back to the late 11th century although there have been many alterations over the centuries. In the past it was the mother (ie most senior) church in the area, its extensive parish containing the two then ‘chapels’ of Brockenhurst and Lymington. In the entrance porch there’s a charming poem about the church on the notice board, which describes it well.
The church is known for its famous 18th century vicar, William Gilpin, who was originally from Cumbria and headmaster of Cheam School for 25 years. He was offered the position at Boldre by one of his former pupils and served as its vicar from 1777 until his death in 1804. As well as being an enlightened educationalist – he did much to improve things for local people, including building a school – he was also an artist of distinction, credited with the founding of the ‘picturesque’ movement, and a writer, producing books about his tours of the country, as well as biographies. His chest tomb in the graveyard north of the church bears an inscription composed by Gilpin himself.
Inside the church you’ll find the beautiful Millennium Window, commissioned by Boldre Parochial Church Council to mark the millennium. Designed and engraved by Tracey Sheppard, it depicts the church in its rural setting with trees, the river and various flora and fauna, each with a symbolic Christian meaning.
Also in the church is a memorial to HMS Hood (and a painting of it, too), a battle cruiser – the largest warship afloat when commissioned in 1920 - sunk by the German battleship, Bismarck, in 1941. Of the crew of 1418 men, only three survived. Among those who died was Vice Admiral L. E Holland, who had been a regular worshipper at Boldre for many years. A service is held here every May in memory of the ship’s company.
Starting from the church, this peaceful circuit takes you through Roydon Woods Nature Reserve, ancient woodland which is in the care of the Hampshire and Isle of Wight Wildlife Trust, crossing the Lymington River twice. It also passes the pub en route. A worthwhile longer option, especially recommended if you want to avoid using the car, is to start from the railway station at Brockenhurst. This adds an extra 1½ miles each way, taking you past St Nicholas’ Church, the oldest church in the New Forest - its great yew tree is over 1000 years old. Here you’ll also find the war graves for WWI New Zealand soldiers.
1. (SZ325993) From Boldre church car park follow the enclosed footpath out of it at the far right hand corner. At the T-junction (Heywood Farm) turn left along the vehicle track for ½ mile. Keep ahead (left) at the first fork for about 20 yards to the next one.
2. (SU330003) Fork left and follow the track to the gate at the entrance to Roydon Woods Nature Reserve, the entrance drive to Dilton Gardens property on the right. Keep ahead past the gate into the reserve and follow the track through the woods. At the T-junction turn left and follow the track downhill to the footbridge over the Lymington River. Roydon Manor can be seen across the grass on the far side. Continue to a metal gate (it can be muddy here) and T-junction.
3. (SU316002) Turn left and follow the track, keeping ahead at a turning on the right. Go through another gate leaving Roydon Woods Nature Reserve, continuing along the lane to the crossroads. Keep straight ahead along the lane, which is joined by another from the right. About 100 yards further on watch for a fingerpost on the left opposite the entrance to Tidebrook Lodge. For a shortcut omitting the pub, turn left along the path through a gap in trees, going through a gate and then fields via a stile and footbridge over the Lymington River, rejoining the longer route on reaching the next lane (turn left).
Otherwise keep ahead along the lane to a road junction, a green (Perkins’ Piece – see information panel) on the left, the Red Lion opposite.
4. (SZ319983) Turn left crossing Boldre Bridge over the Lymington River. Take the next left, Rodlease Lane, and follow it for ¼ mile. Opposite the entrance drive to Rodlease Farm on the left, turn right onto a track (also the entrance to Plant Yard nursery on the left) and follow it uphill through trees. On reaching the lane at the top, turn left back to the church.
Longer option
If starting from Brockenhurst station (SU301020), from the entrance by the ticket office turn right along Station Approach to the main road/A337 and turn right again over the level crossing. Take the second left, forking left along Church Road to St Nicholas Church. From the church continue for another 250 yards along the lane which curves right. Turn left (SU306015) along the bridleway, soon going through a gate into Roydon Woods Nature Reserve. Follow the bridleway/track through the trees, keeping ahead at a junction to join the main route at waypoint 3, continuing ahead. Retrace steps on returning to waypoint 3.
COMPASS POINTS
Start/finish: Boldre church car park (SZ325993). Alternatively Brockenhurst station/car park (SU301020).
Map: OS Explorer OL22
Distance: 4 miles (6.3km). Longer option from Brockenhurst station: 7¼ miles (11.6km)
Terrain: Easy walking along paths, tracks and country lanes through farmland and woodland.
Time: 2 hours (or 3 hours for longer option from Brockenhurst)
Refreshments: Red Lion, Boldre (01590 700212); plenty of choice in Brockenhurst
Public transport: Brockenhurst station is on the mainline railway from London Waterloo to Weymouth; also branch line between Brockenhurst and Lymington. Bluestar bus service no 6 from Southampton to Lymington via Brockenhurst. New Forest Tour bus in summer. Morebus 112 between Lymington & Hythe via Boldre (Mon – Fri).
