Head to the Hampshire highlands for a walk with great views and a grisly tale
Two of Hampshire’s long-distance paths, the Wayfarer’s Walk and the Test Way, begin not in Hampshire itself, but just across the border in Berkshire on Inkpen Hill. Adjoining it is Walbury Hill, the highest point in south-east England (297m/974ft). Both lie along a splendid high chalk ridge, which affords an impressive panorama north across Berkshire.
The two trails traverse the county from north to south. The 70-mile Wayfarer’s Walk initially follows the ridge in a south-easterly direction, crossing into Hampshire and passing just north of the county’s highest point, 271m (889ft) Pilot Hill. It later heads southwards across Hampshire to finish on the coast. The 44-mile Test Way runs more directly from north to south finishing at Eling where the River Test flows into Southampton Water. Apart from the initial section, the route follows much of the course of the River Test.
This area of high chalk downland in the north-west of the county is sometimes referred to as the Hampshire highlands. These North Hampshire Downs form the south-eastern part of the North Wessex Downs Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), which also encompasses the Berkshire Downs and Wiltshire’s Marlborough Downs. The third largest AONB in the country, it is wonderful walking country, in a relatively remote and peaceful part of the county.
Atop Gallows Down on Inkpen Hill is Combe Gibbet, a replica of the original, which was erected in 1676 for displaying the bodies of a couple, George Broomham and Dorothy Newman, who were having an affair. They were hanged for murdering his wife and son. The replica gibbet is, in fact, the most recent of a number of previous replacements. Interestingly, it is situated on top of a mound which is a Neolithic long barrow (burial site), and a Scheduled Monument in recognition of its national importance.
Despite the rather grisly history, Combe Gibbet is well worth visiting for the wonderful views. It is the focal point of this walk, which starts from the unspoilt estate village of Faccombe, situated to the south-east. From here a stretch of the waymarked Brenda Parker Way - another Hampshire long distance path, this one commemorating a Ramblers member and volunteer – is followed northwards to the high ridge, joining it close to the summit of Pilot Hill. Then it’s an easy walk along the exhilarating ridge following the Wayfarer’s Walk via Walbury Hill to Combe Gibbet. The return leg heads back over Walbury Hill - the views are well worth enjoying in reverse – with the option of returning the same way or taking a shorter route along a quiet lane south over Combe Hill to Faccombe. Back at the village, you can enjoy some refreshment at the award-winning and welcoming Jack Russell Inn.
The walk
1. (SU390579) With your back to the pub, the pretty village pond opposite, turn left, keeping left at the fork past the brick shelter on the right. Turn left at the next junction passing Faccombe Manor, a large Georgian manor house, on the right. Keep ahead where a lane forks left, passing St Barnabas Church (built in 1866) on the left. Another lane joins from the left just after the church. Continue ahead for another 120 yards to a right fork, a footpath fingerpost on the grass ahead, with a Brenda Parker Way (BPW) waymark.
2. (SU390582) Follow this lane (access road and public footpath), soon forking left along the gravel track to continue on the footpath. Keep ahead along the track/footpath which descends into a combe, then climbs steeply uphill. Note the Faccombe Estate signs and keep dogs on leads where requested. The estate owns over 4,000 acres, used for mixed farming and commercial game shooting (which takes place in the autumn and winter months). You may come across pheasants and partridges during this leg of the walk. At the top of the hill, turn left over a stile and along the field edge to another stile. Go through a gap in the trees and head in a north-northeast direction across the field to reach a waymark post on the high ridge where the Wayfarer’s Walk and Brenda Parker Way intersect.
3 (SU403601) Turn left along the exhilarating ridge-top route following the Wayfarer’s Walk. Pilot Hill (trig pt) is passed over to the left. Further on, now in Berkshire, join a lane bearing left a few paces to a T-junction and turn right. As the lane curves right keep ahead through a car park along a stony track crossing Walbury Hill, and down to another lane. Keep ahead along the track, soon going through a gate on the right to continue up the grass to Combe Gibbet.
4. (SU364622) Retrace steps the same way. For the shortcut, follow the Wayfarer’s Walk for about 1¼ miles back over Walbury Hill, through the car park and along the lane to the junction (SU383614). Keep ahead for Faccombe.
Compass points
Start/finish: Jack Russell Inn, Faccombe - main car park or overflow car park (SU390579). Do call in for a drink. Alternatively considerate roadside parking in the village.
Map: OS Explorers 131 & 158
Distance: 9 miles/14.5km. Shorter option: 8 miles/13km
Terrain: Well waymarked routes (Brenda Parker Way and Wayfarer’s Walk): grassy and stony tracks; quiet country lanes. After leaving Faccombe, one steady descent, then steeper ascent; thereafter relatively gentle walking along high ridge.
Time: 3½ - 4 hours
Refreshments: Jack Russell Inn, Faccombe (01264 737315)
Further information: North Wessex Downs AONB Walking Festival: 2 - 11 June 2023, northwessexdowns.org.uk.
