An expedition along part of the 70-mile route dividing north Hampshire and west Berkshire, featuring a view of a country house now much-loved across the world.
FIRST SPREAD
A view from above
For residents and visitors alike, Hampshire’s diverse countryside ensures there are always new places and sights to discover. This month, we take in some of the views of a slice of the northern part of the county on the border with West Berkshire. The Wayfarer’s Walk is a 70-mile-long route which starts in Inkpen and ends in Emsworth Harbour and is based on old tracks used by shepherds to drive their sheep to local fairs. Here in the upper part of the walk, you can explore some of the highest downland in the country and enjoy some breath-taking views over the rolling Hampshire hills.
Leading the way
The Wayfarer’s Walk is good for less-experienced navigators, offering a fair number of straight sections of tracks with abundant way markers. With the ‘WW’ symbols peppered throughout the route, you can relax and take in the stunning outlook that North Hampshire has to offer. These way markers are reassuring and can be a wonderful way to keep children motivated on walks too.
Spring lambs
The walk includes sections on tracks that were used by shepherds in centuries past to take their flocks to markets, including in Alresford. In May you are likely to see many sheep with young lamb grazing in the fields, including different breeds. The sheep help to maintain the chalk hills landscape as they have done for hundreds of years with clusters of beech, box, and yew trees interrupting the grassland.
Sit for a while
The opportunity to appreciate the views can be found with spots that have benches carefully positioned – taking in fields, woodland and distant hills. You may be lucky to see many species of birds, including the distinctive red kites with their forked tails and big wingspan. It’s hard not to miss them soaring in the sky and often in pairs or groups. The opportunity to see lots of wildlife is always a bonus on any foray into the Hampshire countryside. You will need to come prepared to take home your own litter as there are few bins on long parts of the walk.
A star in the landscape
A highlight of the early part of the walk is getting a first peek of the now iconic Highclere Castle, whose tower dominates the surrounding landscape. Its familiar shape is now world famous because of its use as the primary location for the tv series Downton Abbey and feature films. Plus, a Channel Four series Highclere: Behind the Scenes detailing the lives of Lord and Lady Carnarvon, and their visitors.
Overnight stay
As the walk descends, you come past Grotto Lodge at the southern edge of the Highclere estate. Built over 175 years ago, this unique circular design promises stunning views across North Hampshire. For those looking to spend some more time here, the lodge is bookable for a romantic couple’s retreat, giving you an opportunity to explore Highclere and the surrounding estate before continuing on along the Wayfarer’s Walk.
A slight detour
Not directly accessible from the Wayfarer’s route but easily by car from the A34 is Beacon Hill. This is one of the best-known iron age hill forts in England and was part of a network of beacons that served as defence and communications systems. The walk up is steep and only near the top are your rewarded with the stunning 360-degree views across the countryside with great photo opportunities all round. You can follow the earth banks that circle the hilltop and a trig point at the top marks the highest point.
Time for a cuppa
We enjoyed snacks near Ladle Hill, to the east of which is an ancient tumulus or burial mound. As with many others the outlines are visible from the sky but not from the ground. This was the stop before our final landmark of Watership Down, another classic location made famous by the book of the same name written by Richard Adams. Nearby Kingsclere village also offers pub refreshments for the thirsty and hungry traveller.
By car or foot
Many of the landmarks featured in this article may be experienced on a driving day out if you don’t fancy taking on the entire route on foot. Our particular section of the walk started near Ashmansworth, a pretty village, and ended in Kingsclere for a relaxed full day’s walk, but you can find many alternatives online at hants.gov.uk/thingstodo/countryside/walking/wayfarerswalk
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