Doors will be unbolted, tales will be told and minds will be blown this September as thousands of Essex culture vultures get the chance to stride through the keyholes to many of our county’s most treasured buildings…
Think you know Essex? Well think again because this month brings the chance to step back in time and find out why there’s so much more to our county’s buildings than just bricks and mortar.
The Heritage Open Days scheme (HOD), held each September, is the largest festival of history and culture in the country and sees thousands of volunteers across England organise opens days, talks and tours to celebrate the glorious, fascinating and sometimes downright weird and wonderful past of buildings across England – and all for free.
As usual Essex will be playing its part as hundreds of churches, windmills, historic homes, museums and lesser-known spaces and places will invite people in on several dates across the month, to discover the secrets of their past.
The theme of the HOD 2024 event is ‘Routes Connections and Networks’ and events and activities will range from in person walks, talks, fairs and displays to online lectures and podcasts.
If you’re an ancient history buff or are glued to Amazon Prime’s new sword and sandals drama ‘Those About to Die’ starring Anthony Hopkins, you’re in luck as plenty of Roman-themed events are listed around Colchester- the oldest Roman city in the UK.
Meanwhile some of the county’s oldest churches will be allowing visitors to climb their belltowers while historic homes and mansions will be displaying some of their rarely-seen objects.
Other key events will include a heritage fair organised by the Essex Industrial Archaeology Group (EIAG).
The group hosts a fair every two years, always at a different historic location around the county.
This year the chosen venue is Grange Barn in Coggeshall. Set to be held on September 14 the fair will feature stalls, displays and talks from organisations around Essex that have a passionate interest in the industrial heritage of the county.
'So far for this year we have 20 exhibitors coming covering such industries as textiles, engineering, shoe making and radio communications. There will also be four speakers presenting short talks on metal working, spinning and weaving in Essex during the 20th century,' explained Tony Crosby, chairman of the EIAG.
'There will also be opportunities to visit a restored village smithy, the Coggeshall watermill and the museum and to follow a self-guided walking trail of the industrial sites of Coggeshall.'
Tony continued: 'We aim to have an exhibition representing a wide range of Essex’s industrial heritage. In the past this has included brick making, museums, windmills, water, transport, industrial air raid shelters, railways and historical books.'
Tony is rightfully proud of Essex’s reputation when it comes to industry and innovation- and who can blame him? Many bright sparks have called Essex home at one time or another- from radio genius Guglielmo Marconi to celebrated electrical engineer Rookes Evelyn Bell Crompton, mathematician and clergyman, Dr John Pell (who came up with the mathematical sign for division that we still use today) and farmer Thomas Darby who invented the ‘Darby Digger’, (a stream powered ploughing machine).
It may be news to you also that the world's first hot and cold drinks dispenser was even invented in Saffron Walden. Named ‘the Wonderful Barrel’, it was created in 1696 by Henry Winstanley, a notable local inventor who worked at Audley End for a time.
But these names are just a drop in the well of industrious ingenuity that Essex has boasted.
'These Fairs are biennial and this year will be the fifth we have held at various venues across the county since 2015,' added Tony.
'The aim of the fairs are to raise the profile of Essex's industrial past as the county is so often seen as being only agricultural and nowhere near as industrial as some of the midlands and northern counties. However we have been home to many nationally important industries such as agricultural engineering, silk textile weaving, metal window making, electronics, radio communications, and ball-bearings.
'We always get people telling us that they never could have imaged that Essex history is so rich in industry.'
As part of the HOD scheme and industrial fair there will also be the chance for visitors to check out Henry ‘Dick’ Nunn's smithy based in East Street, Coggeshall. As well as being the village blacksmith during the Victorian era, Nunn was a social campaigner and champion of working people.
He had an extraordinary life. His mother died of smallpox when he was three and then his father perished due to Tuberculosis. At just 18 years old Dick found himself having to be the sole provider for his family.
The smoke-stained walls, dusty bellows and heat-cracked hearth inside his blacksmith’s forge mean the site is almost exactly how it was left when Nunn died in 1896.
The Smithy will be open to visitors from September 14-15, from 11am-4.30pm each day.
Meanwhile in south Essex, Rayleigh Town Museum will be hosting a travel themed event to coincide with the theme of this year’s HOD
The museum – based in High Street, Rayleigh- will be welcoming in visitors from September 13-15 to see its Essex County Maps display. More than 40 maps will be on show, dating all the way back to the 1600s, including the famous Chapman and Andre Essex maps of 1777.
Museum chairman Mike Davies said: 'Heritage Open days are a wonderful opportunity to showcase Rayleigh’s rich and varied history and heritage. We always try and do something extra special, and this year is no exception with this wonderful visual display on maps of the county of Essex.
'We have the first A/Z map of Essex showing Rayleigh dating to 1675 known as Ogilbys Road Map, as well as small globes and atlases of the world. Another interesting exhibit will be Second World War RAF officer’s escape map in the form of a framed handkerchief!'
Mike added: 'Some of our most popular artefacts are some large-scale Ordnance Survey maps of Rayleigh dating to the 1950’s showing EVERY house in Rayleigh. Some visitors note that 70 years ago their road was not even built let alone their house. It shows just how rural Rayleigh was in living memory.'
For a full run down of what HOD events are on across Essex (all of them free) visit the website heritageopendays.org.uk
Here’s a selection of some of the events planned across Essex for HOD 2024. No pre booking is required unless stated.
EXPLORE BEHIND THE SCENES….
ESSEX RECORDS OFFICE BEHIND THE SCENES TOUR
Wharf Road, Chelmsford
Peruse a range of important artworks from the Essex County Council collection, watch a show reel of historic films and get advice on how to create your own family tree with a special guided tour of the ERO searchroom. The venue is the county archive service for Essex and holds primary sources from more than 1,000 years of Essex history, including written archives, maps and photographs.
Tours will be held throughout the day. September 14. Places must be reserved via chelmsfordhod.co.uk
THE ELECTRIC PALACE CINEMA
Kings Quay Street, Harwich
At the 112-year-old cinema in historic Harwich, you’ll be able to learn about the making of early films and the creativity that was in abundance during the golden age of the silver screen. There will be history slides to watch on the big screen, crafts to make, plus even a cuppa to enjoy. During these special HOD open mornings, volunteers will help bring the cinema’s history to life and a chance to make your own crafts linked to how early films were first made many years ago. Fabulous old equipment and memorabilia will be available to explore and a mini animation workshop for children to enjoy. September 6-13.
RAYLEIGH WINDMILL
Bellingham Lane, Rayleigh
Everyone is welcome to explore this 215-year-old, Grade II listed building. You can learn how the windmill worked, test your knowledge with a quiz as and try on traditional millers’ costumes. You’ll also be able to find out about the legendary castle that once stood nearby on Rayleigh Mount. Julie Kellett, a local artist, will be exhibiting her work at the windmill. September 14 and 15, 1pm-4pm.
BEELEIGH WATER AND STEAM FLOUR MILL
Abbey Turning, Old London Road, Maldon,
The historic mill was once one of the largest flour mills in all of Essex. The site was abandoned after the watermill was destroyed by fire in 1875 although the steam mill survived largely intact, but not operational. Members of the Beeleigh Mill Restoration Group, who are currently undertaking major restoration work to the site, will be providing guided tours of the mill. September 7, 8 and 15, 11am-4pm.
ST GILES MASONIC CENTRE
St John's Green, Colchester
Originally a Norman church, St Giles was built sometime between 1133 and 1171. It was extended in the late medieval period with the addition of a north aisle and a north chapel which was used as the burial place of the Lucas family who lived at St John's Abbey after it was dissolved in 1539. Amongst the graves at the site are those of the Royalist commanders during the Siege of Colchester in 1648- Sir George Lucas and Sir Charles Lisle- who ended up being executed. The building is now the meeting place of the oldest Masonic Lodge in Essex, Angel Lodge. One-hour long tours will be held throughout the day on September 8 and 15.
ST MARY’S-AT-THE-WALLS CHURCH
Church Street, Colchester
St Mary-at-the-Walls has a rich history, both as a church and, more recently, as the Colchester Arts Centre and boasts several interesting monuments. Refurbished in 2021, it has amazing mosaic toilets as well as stunning views from the top of its tower. The original late medieval church was severely damaged during the 1648 Siege of Colchester, being largely rebuilt in the early 18th century and then again by the architect A. W. Blomfield in 1871-2. The church had several notable rectors over the years, including celebrated historian and author Philip Morant who served from 1737 to 1773. Many rooms normally kept closed will be unlocked and visitors can also climb the tower offering fabulous views. September 9. Tours will take place at 1pm,2pm and 3pm.
COLNE VALLEY POSTAL HISTORY MUSEUM
109 Head Street, Halstead.
Home to the second largest private collection of Post Boxes in the UK, this privately owned museum will be opening for some hands-on history. Explore the collection of letter boxes, stamp vending machines, documents, posters, postmen’s bicycles, uniforms and a post box dating back to 1859. Sunday September 25, 10am-4pm.
WALKS AND TALKS
THE WITCH TRIALS TALK
6 Grays Brewery Yard, Chelmsford
Join storyteller Mike Dodsworth on an investigation into the prominence of witch trials and the ruthless execution of women found guilty of the crime of witchcraft in Chelmsford during the 16th and 17th centuries. To broaden the historical context of these events, Mike will be delving into the world of literature and folklore to assist in the understanding of these atrocities.
September 13, 7pm. Places must be reserved via chelmsfordhod.co.uk
CHELMSFORD’S SECRET WATERWAYS
38 High Street, Chelmsford
This short walk takes in parts of the Chelmer and Backwater Canal/waterway, which are largely unknown by most visitors and residents. A short distance from the hustle and bustle of the city and its feeder roads lies this haven of peace and tranquillity, described as Chelmsford's hidden gem. Gently walk from the busy city centre to see the canoe rollers, the Essex Records Office, the site of the proposed new lock, the water meadows and Barnes Mill Lock. September 6, 2pm. Booking required via chelmsfordhod.co.uk
MR MARCONI AND THE BIRTH OF THE WIRELESS
Patch, 5-6 Grays Yard, Chelmsford
Through this one-hour walking tour historian Alan Pamphilon will take you back to the early days of Wireless through the true story of one man from Italy- Senior Guglielmo Marconi. Find out how his creative thinking influenced the working lives of so many people in the then market town of Chelmsford. The technical and entrepreneurial abilities of this man went on to allow the world to communicate by wireless, later called radio. September 11. Pre-booking required via chelmsfordhod.co.uk
BRUTAL BUT BEAUTIFUL: UNIVERSITY OF ESSEX ARCHITECTURE TOUR
Art Exchange, University of Essex, Wivenhoe Park, Colchester
This guided walk led by curator and university academic Jessica Twyman focuses on the brutalist 1960s architecture of the University of Essex. Full of plate glass and concrete, the university’s aesthetic sums up the post-war drive to ‘build a better Britain’. Find out how its architects used concrete and new materials to create powerful, sculptural forms and striking images. This event coincides with the University’s 60th anniversary celebrations and starts at the Art Exchange, which is hosting a linked exhibition. September 15, 2pm. heritageopendays.org.uk
ROMAN RUINS
‘COLCHESTER’S ROMAN CIRCUS 2004-2024’
Roman Circus Visitor Centre, Roman Circus Walk, Colchester
Channel your inner Ben Hur because Colchester's famous Roman Circus archaeological remains – the only Roman chariot racing track in Britain- will be open to the public to celebrate 20 years since its discovery. Find out all the history with a free guided tour at the visitor centre. The circus was used between roughly the second century and late third century CE for chariot racing, amongst other spectator sports. The excavations of the site revealed that it was 450m in length with a race track about 2.5 miles long and had capacity for between 8,000 to16,000 spectators. September 14, 10am-4pm.
MERSEA ROMAN MOUND
Barrow Barn, 7A East Mersea Road, West Mersea
The Roman Barrow Mound is an excavated burial chamber, the contents of which can be viewed at Mersea Museum. They are the cremated remains of a male contained in a glass Roman cremation urn, found with a lead casket. It was excavated in 1912. The Roman burial mound- not normally open to the public- dates to 100 - 120 AD. Before being led in, visitors will receive a short informative and illustrated talk. Visitors can then enter the burial chamber by means of a narrow, gated door into a corridor with low level lighting. There are a few steps down into the actual chamber room which can hold up to ten people on a tour. There is also an opportunity to climb to the top of the mound. September 14 and 15. 10am-4pm.
ROMAN THEATRE REMAINS
Maidenburgh Street, Colchester
Visitors can see a small area of the foundations of the Roman theatre preserved inside a modern building. The theatre could seat 3000 spectators and it was constructed to the standard D-shaped plan, with the curve of the D to the south, forming the auditorium, and the straight part to the north, representing the stage. It may have been this theatre which featured in the destruction of Colchester by Boudica in AD 60. To the rear of the building is a recreated Roman garden with plants of the time. The theatre site was discovered in 1981 during excavations by the Colchester Archaeological Trust
and is now in the care of Colchester City Council. The Roman theatre and garden were refurbished earlier this year and are now looking at their best. September 7 and 8. September 15, tours 11am and 2pm.
COASTAL CAPERS
REDOUBT FORT
Main Road, Harwich
Discover this impressive fort which was built in 1808 to defend Harwich from an invasion by Napoleon. See the 11 guns which sit on the battlements and get a superb 360-degree view of the Harwich Peninsula, the Stour and Orwell Estuary from the top. The fort has been lovingly restored and holds many interesting artefacts in the lower rooms that will be on display. Open September 14-15.
THE FISHERMAN’S CHURCH, OPEN DAY
St Mary's the Virgin Church, Church Street, Maldon
This picturesque church and its tower has, throughout its history, acted as a beacon for the town’s community and visitors. Known as the Fishermen’s Church its tower has guided countless sailors and their craft into the Hythe. The door to the church is always open from early morning to dusk and the visitors’ book bears witness to those who find peace and solace in the spiritual beauty of St Mary’s historic and welcoming space. Open every day in September.
THAMES BARGES: THE THISTLE AND HYDROGEN
Cooks Yard, The Hythe, Maldon
Climb aboard these two iconic vessels and explore the heritage that is The Thames Barges - synonymous with Maldon. Enjoy looking around both barges while they are docked at the Heritage Harbour, have a cup of tea and find out about the history of Thames barges which were a type of commercial sailing boat once a common sight on the estuary due to their flat bottoms. September 15, 11am-4pm.
HISTORIC HOMES AND CHURCHES
ST MARY’S CHURCH PRITTLEWELL
East Street, Southend-on-Sea
For more than a thousand years there has been a church on the site of Saint Mary’s, Prittlewell. The church and tower will be open especially for the HOD scheme offering self-guided tours. Visitors can climb the tower and see amazing views across Southend. There will the chance to see the church’s famous bells and stained-glass windows, while family events will run across both days.
September 7 and 8.
HYLANDS HOUSE OPEN DAY
London Road, Writtle
Look around this gorgeous Grade II listed Neo-Classical mansion which has meticulously restored period rooms from both the Georgian and Victorian eras. Originally built as a modest red brick Queen Anne style home in 1730 by local MP Sir John Comyns, the house and parkland was redesigned by famous landscape designer and architect Humphry Repton. Hylands House was rescued from ruin by Chelmsford City Council and restoration was completed in 2007. Steeped in history and set amongst beautiful surroundings, the house will be hosting a special ‘Hylands Families’ event where members from the Essex Society of Family History will be present and children can have fun creating their own family tree. September 15, 10am-4pm
