Andrew Millham takes us on a walk around Rayleigh Mount, a National Trust reserve that was once the site of an imposing Norman motte and bailey castle
Distance: One-mile round trip
Time: One hour, including time to stop, snack and stare
Snow lay in patches on the ground – now a day old and compacting into treacherous ice. It is a teeth-chattering sort of cold, but from a low horizon, tepid sunrays gild the fine edges of bulbous clouds in a display of defiance against the morning frost.
Winter has announced itself, but still I eagerly stepped out to enjoy my monthly wild walk – this time to Rayleigh, perhaps my favourite town in the world. As I parked in Bellingham Lane car park, both the grand tower of Trinity Church and the white blades of Rayleigh Windmill watched on silently. When entering ‘the Mount’ – as it is known locally – there is a sense that history is gazing down upon you. A castle once stood here, now gone, surfacing thoughts of the passing of time and our small place within it.
Rayleigh Mount is open and free to enter seven days a week, however, on this day as I approached, the metal gate was shut (serve.gained.with). A note from the National Trust was tied onto the gatepost, which read: ‘For visitor safety, the Mount will be closed in icy conditions.’ Since the ice was due to stay for a while, I will instead write about this walk from memory, for I have walked its paths numerous times, in all seasons.
Upon entry, the path slopes downwards through rainforest-like greenery with ferns and ancient oaks on all sides. You can turn right or left at the bottom as it is a circular path (although a left turn will take you past the duck pond). At every available opportunity, follow paths upwards until you reach a set of wooden steps leading to the top of the Mount (apple.expect.hoot).
Atop this green hill, the imagination runs wild with thoughts of the gallant knights and soldiers that may once have been here. But, today, birds sing year-round whilst colourful wildflowers like smoky purple fumitory line the borders in summer like a festival of lights. Winter crocuses and irises poke their nodding heads up through the soil in late-winter.
The view, framed by branches, stretches across to the lowlands of Sweyne Park and all the way to Battlesbridge. A house sitting on the hillside directly below (on land once part of the outer bailey) has a beautiful red trim, and my brother and I, like clockwork, always note how Christmassy it looks.
This high vantage point must have been perfect for spotting enemy advances, but now it is the ideal spot for a picnic as the view is not obscured when sitting on the ground. Once you have wandered back down, there are plenty of pubs and cafes in Rayleigh high street to choose from – one of my favourites is a tearoom called Squires (trades.activism.either), a fitting name after such a royal walk.
Potted history of Rayleigh Mount
Rayleigh Mount, on the site of a Norman motte and bailey castle, is the only castle to be mentioned in the 1086 Domesday Book. It was commissioned by the lord of the manor, a man named Sweyne, and built using timber. As Rayleigh Castle stood between the Rivers Crouch and Thames, it was the first line of defence against invading armies marching on London. However, Rayleigh was never attacked in its 300 years of military use, and by the 17th century, the land was used for sheep and cattle grazing. Today, the mount remains as a sanctuary for wildlife.
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