Kimberley Hammond enjoys a little glamour The New London in Chelmsford on a winter's evening
It was a beautiful night in the depths of winter; the kind of evening when the sky is clear and the air is freezing. Wrapped up in scarves and gloves, we could see our breath in front of our faces. Now, I am a big fan of winter and nearly all that comes with it, but dragging oneself away from the woodburner and out of the house can feel rather painful. Yet, the promise of good company and the possibility of a tasty dinner are strong motivators!
Tonight’s location, close to the city centre in a historic area of Chelmsford, is The New London. The restaurant has been welcoming diners since 2013. Before that, the building was a rather more modest establishment called The Red Lion.
We slipped inside the Victorian Grade II listed building and had a look around. They certainly hadn’t been shy with the colour selections; the walls and ceilings are painted with dark tones of grey and forest green. Luxurious wallpapers and soft velvet fabrics create an elegant first impression. A waiter promptly appeared and took our drinks order, ‘Two glasses of Réserve Saint-Marc Grenache Blanc, please.’
For starters, I opted for the pan-fried scallops. Boy, did they look fancy! Seared to perfection, the three sweet scallops were complemented by a smooth and silky cauliflower purée and a very cheffy brown butter foam. The addition of pickled cauliflower on the plate cut through the richness perfectly. A beautifully executed starter and the star of the evening.
For my main course, I had a generous portion of roast duck breast, which was served nice and pink and topped with tangy blood orange segments. The fondant potato and glazed carrot didn’t blow my mind, but were enjoyable nonetheless, while the buttermilk jus was delicious and I would have loved more of it. My guest had the goats cheese and beetroot tarte tatin which was scrummy, a classic flavour combo, although the meal seemed a little small for a main course.
We definitely had space for dessert, and after some persuasion from me, my guest ordered the pineapple upside down cake. Both our eyes lit up when it arrived – a gorgeous modern take on a retro dish. The sponge was sweet and gooey and the peanut tuile and spiced rum ice cream completed the dish perfectly. My rich dark chocolate torte was delectable and had the most incredible honey ice cream on the side.
If you are after a little Essex glamour and some tasty modern classics, The New London is a great choice – just be sure to order a couple of side dishes!
The bill came to £94. The restaurant was not told it was being reviewed.
thenewlondon.co.uk / 01245 266 288
