‘I’ve been fortunate enough to work in some outstanding kitchens around the world but launching The Kenmuir Arms was my most exciting challenge yet.’ Chef patron Christopher Dougan tells Carol Hogarth why he’s loved creating a new dining destination for D&G that’s winning awards and bringing guests to New Luce from far and wide
The closure of hundreds of village pubs every year rips the heart out of communities up and down the country.
But, five years after their pub closed, New Luce villagers took matters into their own hands and now have a thriving, multi award-winning pub restaurant with rooms, on their doorstep.
A community buyout, with windfarm funding, allowed the complete renovation of The Kenmuir Arms, which is now leased and run as a restaurant, bar and hotel by chef patron Christopher Dougan and his partner Beth.
Christopher has been Head Chef at prestigious Cumbrian hotels (The Scafell in Rosthwaite and Armathwaite Hall, Bassenthwaite), established a gastro pub in Singapore, and has worked with legendary chefs including Marcus Wareing and Paul Kitching.
Using money from the Killgallioch Community Fund, provided by ScottishPower Renewables’ Killgallioch Windfarm, the New Luce Community Trust completely renovated The Kenmuir Arms over two years.
In August 2022 the Trust advertised for a tenant and Christopher’s was one of several expressions of interest. After the chaos and uncertainty of the pandemic, and its devastating effect on the hospitality industry, he was looking for a place of his own.
“My agent told me about this project in New Luce. I had never been to the area before, but I was doing some relief work at the Cally Palace in Gatehouse, so I went to have a look.
“It looked like a building site at the time, but I could see it was a fantastic opportunity.”
The Kenmuir Arms re-opened with Christopher and Beth at the helm in May 2023.
“Without the New Luce Community Trust, I could never have had my own business,” Christopher says. “We’ve worked closely with the Trust, and we could not be more grateful for their continued support.”
The new-look Kenmuir Arms has a glass-fronted restaurant with capacity for 24 diners, a snug bar with wood burning stove, where locals are encouraged to meet, enjoy a drink and watch sports on television, and three comfortable, modern bedrooms.
“I have a gastro pub background which is what I’m trying to do here,” says Christopher. “I’m trying to bring the concept of a country gastro pub to Scotland, like those you get in Yorkshire and Cumbria. We do the likes of burgers and fish and chips, but really well.”
In February 2011, Christopher, who is originally from Lanarkshire, was hired for a year to establish, from scratch, a British-style gastro pub in Singapore.
Before that he had been Chef de Partie for Ribble Valley Inns and in 2006, for Manchester’s only Michelin-starred restaurant at the time, Paul Kitching’s Juniper Restaurant.
From 2004 to 2006 he worked under Marcus Wareing at the two Michelin-starred Petrus London, part of Gordon Ramsay Holdings.
Returning to Scotland from Singapore, Christopher again worked with Kitching at his Edinburgh restaurant 21212, and had long-term relief roles at the Glenmoriston Hotel in Inverness, La Garrigue bistro in Edinburgh, and Dalmahoy Hotel & Country Club south of the city.
“I’ve been fortunate enough to work in some outstanding kitchens around the world but launching The Kenmuir Arms was my most exciting challenge yet.” he says.
He enjoys being creative while also firmly believing in the importance of fresh, local produce and “good home cooking”.
“Our aim was to create a beautiful space which offered exquisite fresh and local food with warm and homely rooms.”
The daily changing specials board of pub classics showcases top quality producers including Barsolous Farm, Stranraer; Barnbarroch Organic Meat, Whauphill; The Ethical Dairy at Gatehouse, and butchers Frasers of Stranraer.
A tasting menu features tartare of Belted Galloway Beef, home-cured salmon, barbecue mangalitza pork loin and Ecclefechan Tart.
Sunday lunch at The Kenmuir Arms includes a variety of snacks and starters, from crispy pig’s head to Scotch Broth, followed by roast beef, pork or lamb, all family-served in the centre of the table.
Guests lucky enough to be staying in one of the hotel’s three rooms are treated to a full Scottish farmhouse breakfast.
Awards have been coming in thick and fast over the past year. The Kenmuir Arms was named county winner for Dumfries & Galloway in the National Pub and Bar Awards and was named Best Newcomer in the Scottish Entertainment and Hospitality Awards, where it was also a Best Family Restaurant finalist.
In the National Hotels of the Year Scotland Awards 2023/24, The Kenmuir Arms was named Dining Discovery of the Year and Christopher won the award for Chef Patron of the Year.
The restaurant received its first AA rosette in July 2023 and The Kenmuir Arms is rated an AA five gold star restaurant with rooms.
Situated in a tiny village, seven miles off the A75 in rural Galloway, The Kenmuir Arms is reliant on a great reputation and word spreading about it being worth a detour to find.
Christopher says most guests currently come from within a 60 to 80-mile radius, with some stopping on their way to, or from, the Irish Sea ferries.
“They often don’t expect much coming to a small country pub so it’s great being able to under promise and over deliver,” he says. “We want to continue to let people know there’s something here worth coming for. We need to build that awareness for people to turn off the A75.
“Dumfries & Galloway’s reputation is growing. It’s becoming more popular as a visitor destination and it’s great for us to be part of that journey.”
