Set in Blackmore Vale with the backdrop of Hambledon Hill, a magnificent Iron Age hillfort, Child Okeford is a rather special place. Its village shop won this year’s best in the Southwest, while The Art Stable Gallery, Gold Hill Farm Kitchen, James’s Cheese and the studio of hand-blown glass artist Emsie Sharp cluster around the award-winning Gold Hill Organic Farm Shop. Round the corner is The Saxon Inn, which is celebrating the 75th anniversary of its public license, though drinks have been served here for centuries. Created from three cottages, and originally The New Inn, it was renamed The Saxon Inn 50 years ago. Sarah-Jane Collins and her partner Richard Hutton took charge in January 2023.
Our elderly spaniel Rosie was enthusiastically welcomed by ‘front of house guest greeter’ Herman the resident sausage dog; this is a very dog-friendly establishment. In our spacious ‘Hambledon’ bedroom complimentary treats from The Canine Menu caused tail wags. All four ensuite bedrooms are designed by Sarah, who creates calm and comfort in a modern rustic style throughout the inn.
Sarah heads up the small kitchen team, showcasing locally sourced seasonal ingredients on their menu. The Dorset Grazing Board is a good example with Book and Bucket cheeses, charcuterie from The Real Cure, olives from Olives et al, and bread from Oxfords Bakery.
Celebrating May Day, I opted for a summery pre-dinner G & T of Cotswold Distillery Wildflower Gin with elderflower tonic, while Stu enjoyed an Eight Arch (Wimborne) Square Logic pale ale, which had zesty grapefruit notes.
Stu, a vegan, opted for wild mushrooms with wild garlic in a creamy plant-based sauce on toasted ciabatta. This starter packed a great garlicky punch. I was intrigued by the turmeric eggs - a local hen’s egg gently fried in butter with turmeric and seasoning, served on a cool Greek yoghurt and spinach base scattered with thinly sliced shallots and green chillis pickled in sherry vinegar. Finished with a vibrant salsa verde oil, it was a work of art on the plate and the palate.
One of Sarah’s signature dishes, and my mains choice, is beef wellington. A fillet of grass-fed beef from Jurassic Coast Meat, cooked just the right side of rare, with a layer of earthy mushrooms in a crisp golden pastry case. This was accompanied by fragrant thyme roasted carrots and a rich red wine sauce. I paired this with a glass of house red (Merlot Pay D’Oc) whose plummy notes were a worthy match for this British classic. The beef wellington is very popular so order in advance if your heart is set on this.
Stu progressed to hasselback butternut squash with tahini, herb and lemon sauce, a pomegranate vinaigrette, crispy fried onion, chestnuts and toasted pine nuts. Vegans rarely see such a substantial dish – it was, he said, like a ‘haunch’ of squash, and packed with well-balanced flavours and textures.
Alongside the main menu and daily specials, such as the pot pie soon to be replaced by summer quiche of the day, there are pub classics such as The Saxon beefburger topped with Dorset Blue Vinny or Godminster Vintage Cheddar, and cider and dill battered fish and chips (gluten free).
The portion sizes here are generous. But one of us found room for a slice of Oxford Bakery’s decadent Dorset apple cake for dessert!
After a peaceful night, we grazed on a late breakfast of Dorset delights – local granolas, Sarah’s rhubarb and ginger compote, Meggy Moo yoghurt, and fresh strawberries. Followed by scrambled egg and smoked salmon for me, and mushrooms, spinach and tomatoes on toast for Stu. Washed down with excellent coffee.
But for our elderly dog, we would have worked some of this off with a walk from the Up Hill Down River Ten Walks from Child Okeford book, which was in our room. Instead, we strolled around the village marveling at its facilities, shops and reflecting on a great stay at its fabulous hostelry. thesaxoninn.co.uk
