It’s easy to see why Enid Blyton returned again and again to Knoll House Hotel in Studland. The location is stunning. The creator of The Famous Five and her husband Kenneth Darrell Waters often stayed in Room 40 which has panoramic sea views.
Beyond the maritime pines in front of the hotel, Studland Bay sparkles in the sun. When Stu, our dog Rosie and I checked in for a two-day break, we might have been on the Cote d’Azur.
On the verandah, with a gentle breeze wafting the scent of wisteria over us, we tucked into a five-star afternoon tea which would have had the Famous Five in raptures. Stu’s vegan option was just as sumptuous as mine. Finger sandwiches were deeply filled, warm scones with strawberry jam and Dorset clotted cream came plant-based for Stu. But those cakes...oh my! Viennese whirl with vegan raspberry cream, carrot cake, pistachio sponge...all homemade.
Fit to burst, we set off for a walk. Knoll House is very dog friendly – there were crossed dog chews in front of the towel swans on our bed and we met lots of canine chums during our stay. A woodland path takes you to gorse strewn heathland; Agglestone Rock is a mere 20-minute walk. From the front, the grounds lead to the sugary sands of Knoll Beach (dogs on leads 1 May to 30 September) and a two mile walk along the coast to Old Harry Rocks.
Knoll House was built around the turn of the 20th century as a summer retreat for the Bankes family (owners of Kingston Lacy), then subsequently leased to well-heeled types during the 1920s. Huge paintings of elegant women from that era gaze down from the walls, looking like they’ve stepped straight out of Downton.
In 1931, Chris and Poppy Smith bought Knoll House and opened it as a family hotel. There was even a separate dining room for children and their nannies. This is now a café area with a playroom filled with toys and games; there’s also a ‘pirate ship’ and adventure playground.
The hotel was requisitioned by the army during World War Two, then reopened in 1946. Its current owners took over in 2017. There are several displays about Enid Blyton, including a whole cabinet dedicated to Noddy’s Toy Town, believed to have been inspired by the village of Studland.
There are some parts of the hotel that do look a little tired. However, there are plans for redevelopment. The rooms are comfortable, with lots of fascinating memorabilia in its various lounges and corridors. I rather like Knoll House’s genteel air; it all adds to its charm. Fires are lit in the evening in the communal areas, where books and board games abound – anyone for Knolopoly? Huge sofas invite you to while away an hour or so, resisting the temptation of a game of pitch and putt with views of Old Harry Rocks.
Knoll House certainly retains ‘the charm and comfort of the English home’ that it proudly declared in its early publicity, which is framed on the walls. A haven for those seeking a holiday ‘without the questionable advantages of dancing, cocktail bars and wireless’.
I pondered this as I browsed the Gin Menu before dinner. Head chef, Charles Hewitson, has created a classic British-French menu sourcing locally and organically where possible. This included my starter of a Dorset Blue Vinny salad. The Studland Bay seafood stew looked great, but post afternoon tea I took the lighter option of a succulent free range chicken breast with jumbo couscous, heritage tomatoes, garden herbs and a cracking rose harissa yoghurt dressing. Stu’s beetroot gnocchi with wafer-thin discs of candy-striped heritage beets, toasted hazelnuts and vegan feta went straight to my Instagram feed. Gold stars for flavour and texture, a quality often lacking in vegan dishes. Dessert was a couple of scoops of blood orange sorbet (divine), though the chocolate dome filled with white chocolate mousse, almond sponge and apricot was tempting. Diners can opt for the Set Menu or A La Carte. We had plenty to choose from, with some interesting dishes showcasing local seasonal ingredients.
Following a final dog walk digestif, with the shadowy outline of deer on the field’s edge, we sat on one of our balconies (Room 51 has two) under starry skies. At breakfast we browsed chafing dishes piled with bacon, scrambled eggs, breakfast bangers - meat and vegan, hash browns, mushrooms and beans – fueled up, we were raring to go.
Studland is brilliant for walkers, dogs, cyclists, water sports enthusiasts, and wild swimmers like me. Knoll Beach is a ten-minute walk along the road, or less via a steep woodland path, and it was here that I booked my first beach sauna. Studland Sauna Hut is a converted beach hut on the water’s edge run by Studland Water Sports (who also hire out paddleboards, kayaks, dinghies and aqua trikes). Paul, whose family owns the business, told me to consider the sea as my plunge pool – a bracing 13°C in mid-May - the sauna was a steamy 90°C. My sauna buddy was a ‘Yorkshire Dales Dipper’ I met at the hotel. We ran into the sea hooting with laughter before dashing into the sauna. Partners and dogs looked on bemused as we repeated this several times during our hour-long booking. A fabulous first sea swim of the year!
A leisurely light lunch on the verandah (rose harissa houmous with crisp falafels, pitta bread and toasted pine nuts) was followed by an afternoon dozing by, and dipping into, the 23m outdoor heated pool. That night at dinner we sat at Blyton’s table (the corner one with views) and reflected on what a special place this is.
For me it was a hidden Dorset gem. I love its quirkiness and its rich history. And its location, for humans or canines, is utterly sublime.
Find out more at knollhouse.co.uk or call 01929 450450
Let’s Go!
The Knoll House Weekend: From £300 includes bed and breakfast for two nights, and dinner on Saturday.
Day Retreat: Access to all hotel facilities including indoor and outdoor pools, steam room, sauna, outdoor sports and lunch (April – October) £38 pp/£75 couple/£95 family (2 adults/2 children)
Afternoon Tea: Best to pre-book, Friday-Sunday 2.30pm-4pm, £18.50 pp (vegan and gluten free options available). Teddy Tea for younger diners £9.50.
Studland Sauna Hut: Open Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday throughout the year, half hour and hour sessions, for up to six people. Pre-book on 07890 581396 or info@studlandwatersports.co.uk
