Ramble across the heathland of this National Nature Reserve with its inland freshwater lake that was once on the coastline.
Heathland once covered 100,000 acres of Dorset supporting a rich variety of
heathland wildlife, now only 14,000 acres remain.
Studland Heath was declared a National Nature Reserve (NNR) in 1962, with freshwater Little Sea and the only area in Dorset where sand dunes are colonised by heath.
Godlingston Heath was declared an NNR in 1980. Jointly covering 1,600 acres, these two areas constitute the largest heathland reserve in Dorset; they are also designated as nationally important Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI).
Agglestone Rock, at about 500 tons, is the largest of several sandstone blocks scattered about the heath. Also known as the Devil’s Anvil, it adopted its current lopsided position in 1970 when it slipped sideways due to continuing sand erosion
underneath.
The coastline of Studland’s beaches has constantly changed over many centuries. Developing sand dunes become stabilised by deep-rooted marram grass and consolidated by couch grasses, bindweed and sheep’s bit. Behind the dunes, heathers colonise the sparse sandy soils and peaty pools have appeared as the
peninsula has widened steadily.
In Studland’s sandy heath, the mile long Little Sea freshwater lake has developed. Its western shore was once the coastline. In 1721, it was a tidal inlet through
a dune but, before 1800 it was a lagoon, although still being invaded by sea-water during spring tides 50 years later. Now, it’s a freshwater lake.
The Sandbanks chain ferry came in 1926, and the new road with it. Prior to this, the crossing to South Haven Point was by rowing boat ferry. Onward travel to Studland village was along a rough track which passed behind, and well clear of, the present Knoll House Hotel. This walk uses this old track.
THE WALK
1. Walk back out of the car park to Ferry Road and turn left uphill to pass the bus-stop with Knoll House Hotel right. In the 1920s, just before the new Ferry Road was built through the gardens at Knoll House, its former owner, the Duke of Hamilton, sold it. It became a hotel in 1930, and the Famous Five’s creator Enid Blyton often stayed here.
Continue along the verge and past the ‘Studland’ village sign. In 100 yards, go
through the right bridleway arrowed fence-gap onto the wide rising grass track. At a right squared-post go left across the field, between two electricity posts, to the hedge-gap and the bridleways crossing. Turn right onto the main track with a left
wood. Passing two right houses and left Wadmore Farm, continue down the Private’ track. This was part of the original track from the rowing-boat ferry to Studland.
Under trees, notice the banks and old layered trees on either side. Through 1½ bridleway-gates into ‘Godlingston Heath’. Fork left and cross the ‘Agglestone Rock’
bridleway wooden bridge. Over, turn left along the rising track.
2. Past the left-fork ‘Agglestone Rock’ footpath, continue up the bridleway-track, becoming flint-strewn through gorse and bracken. Then. becoming sandy, ascend to meet a path coming up from your left. From here take the right fork track with
multiple paths through heather.
On the top, there are views to Brownsea Island, Poole Harbour, Bournemouth and Hengistbury Head. Keep straight on to a tracks’ crossing where go right towards distant Brownsea Castle, following the sandy track over, down and across the
heath. Then, through flowering gorse, continue up the heath, on high level again with Little Sea forward-right. Descending again, meander to 1½ gates at the
‘Godlingston Heath’ information board.
3. Through onto Ferry Road with Greenlands Farm track on your left, cross over into the narrow path with the three-way signpost and the orange-bird post indicating a path to the bird hide.
At the instant track crossing, turn left to continue the walk. But first, a short diversion for a fine view over Little Sea. Walk straight on up the rising bending path, sunken near the top, to the National Trust Studland Base hut and bird hide. There, walk clockwise above the hut to the viewpoint overlooking Little Sea.
Then return to the crossing and take the green track with gorse both sides and with Ferry Road parallel on your left. Soon, past a left roadside cantilever-gate, the track becomes sand and gravel.
When it bends right, keep straight on, becoming green again with Poole Harbour forward left.
Over another track coming from a cantilever-gate, ascend past a tiny pond right and continue across open heath. Crossing a hide-marked path, continue on a
narrow path, closer to the road with woodland right.
4. Then, with fenced right wood and access gate, continue on the roadside verge to the bus-stop by another gate/kissing-gate.
Continue along the right verge with a waterlogged wood right and past another access gate. Reaching ferry toll-booths, walk into the National Trust Car Park where you have a choice.
Option 1: Go through the far left corner onto the roadside path, passing left Sailing Centre and Shell Bay Restaurant to reach the artistic ‘South West Coast Path’ marker sign and the Sandbanks Ferry. Then, turn right along Shell Bay beach.
Option 2: In the far right corner, go over the wooden footbridge through drowned
woodland and reed-beds to ‘Shell Beach and Bay’. Continue over the dunes path to Shell Bay beach and turn right.
Either way, enjoy a level stroll on firm sand near the sea’s edge, and round onto Studland Beach with views to Old Harry Rocks ahead, all the way back to Knoll Beach Café and car park where you started.
COMPASS POINTS
Distance: 5 miles/8 km
Time: 4 hours
Start: National Trust’s Knoll Beach Car Park at Studland (Grid Ref: SZ034825)
Exertion: Quite easy. Some sandy tracks
Map: OS Landranger Sheet 195
Public Transport: Wilts and Dorset 50
Dogs: On leads near livestock and where requested, abide by The Countryside Code
Refreshments: Knoll Beach Café for lunches, snacks and teas and the Knoll House Hotel for lunches and afternoon teas
