Morris dancing makeover with Beltane Border Morris in Devon

If there’s one tradition that captures the essence of this scepter’d isle, it is Morris. The light-of-foot, carefree dancing, laced with the burble of bells and a quiver of hankies is as quintessentially English as cream and scones. Yet in recent years, this ancient folk ritual has seen a comeback, thanks to a 21st century makeover - and it’s happening right here in the county.

Today Morris dancing has 21.4 million posts on TikTok, Boss Morris an all-female troupe danced their way through the Brit Awards last year, with nearly four million people tuning in. There is now a string of exciting groups that are more diverse, embracing a younger, hipper crowd.

Whether it’s Beltane Border Morris here in Devon or the WAD in Cornwall, London’s Tower Ravens, with their rapper sword dance, or Acid Morris, with their techno infused folk grooves, the revival is wide and vibrant - this is now Morris’ cool period.

‘The renewed interest is generational. There was a massive folk boom in the 1970s, think Steeleye Span or Fairport Convention, and that stimulated a lot of interest in Morris. That age group is now reaching the end of its natural lifespan and is leaving the way open for some more inventiveness from a new generation,’ says Michael Heaney, who’s researched Morris for over 40 years and author of The Ancient English Morris Dance.

The moor plays an important part in the lives of the Beltane Border Morris. (Image: Gavin Kitty) Creativity is therefore erupting in spades. Blame Covid lockdowns and the need to reconnect with real people, Brexit and questions over identity, the internet and its ability to link likeminded souls, or a renewed interest in folk traditions - the reasons touted for Morris’ renaissance are legion. What a number of teams are actively doing is hacking this five-century-old spectacle so it’s relevant for the modern age.

Take the video of Beltane Border Morris and their misty dawn performance at May Day on Hay Tor, it has been viewed nearly two million times. At the Stoke Gabriel Wassail, a string of onlookers asked if they could join the Dartmoor-based group, agog at their spine-tingling performance. They were dressed in tatty coats, feather-spiked hats and painted faces with talk about celebrating the ‘dark side of folk’.

‘The important thing about keeping a folk tradition alive is to make it interesting. Morris, has to sound good and look good, but also feel good, as well as be vigorous. This is what we work hard on,’ says Ant Veal, squire of the Beltane Border Morris.

Beltane recruits new dancers each year, aged 19-75 from a range of backgrounds (Image: Richard Hammerton) Their dancing is infectious. This is not Morris as you thought you knew it. Stereotypes are instantly shredded. Gone are the bell pads and the flutter of white cloth from portly, bearded, middle-aged men. Replaced by fish-net stockings and black top hats, as well as many younger spritely dancers. What you also notice is that many women are performing. Let’s not forget the Morris Ring, one of their hallowed associations, only gave its blessing to female dancers six years ago.

‘Morris dancing has always evolved, responding to the interests and concerns of the time,’ says Michael. ‘There's now a greater awareness of it being a performance art, more than just a hobby. People tend to associate it with a wider variety of different cultural connections including neo-pagan and local folklore.’

‘On the whole I welcome innovation, my only caveat is that it should be organically linked with what’s gone before,’ he stresses.

Beltane Border Morris is doing just that and with attitude. Dances are backed by a plethora of drums, fiddles, pipes and lutes, as well as an amplifier – which would have traditionalists cringing, but not Beltane. Such accompaniment puts fire in their belly, allowing the dancers to conjure up the wilds of Dartmoor, as well as its legends.

Beltane have won awards for 'the energy and uniformity of their wild and free dancing style' (Image: Wendy Searle) Dances with names like Tolmen Stone - named after a mystical river rock above Chagford, Ravaged Oak and Stone Circle say a lot about what Beltane are trying to achieve. Rooting their performance deep in Devon’s soul, but with a contemporary twist. It’s why they won the Tradfolk Award for Best Morris dance performance two years ago. The judges called their performance ‘atmospheric’ and praised the ‘energy and uniformity of their wild and free dancing style.’

‘It's our serpentine move that excites the viewer. It’s exhilarating to do. The dance is not only a nod to Scottish reels, but the cascading waters high on Dartmoor weaving among the rocks. The moor is such an important part of all of our lives in the group,’ says Ant.

‘We’re teaching new dancers this flowing movement that is influenced by our sense of place. It's the essence, really, of the Beltane personality,’ he adds.

The important thing about keeping a folk tradition alive is to make it interesting' says Ant Veal. (Image: Richard Hammerton) It’s no wonder that Beltane’s dances have been used by nearly 40 Morris sides around the UK and globally including various U.S. states, Canada, Australia and New Zealand. The group are also popular, there are an incredible 50 or so active members. Beltane recruits around half a dozen new dancers each year, aged 19-75 from a range of backgrounds, one is a meteorologist, a financial analyst, a prison officer, another a radiographer. Their popularity means there’s no lack of interest.

If you are wondering where the Border tradition comes from, it originated in the villages bordering Wales. Dances are traditionally performed with sticks, while dancers wear tatty coats and painted faces as a form of disguise, since historically it was seen as a form of busking, or to give the appearance of foreign Moors, hence the origin of the word Morris.

Beltane’s sticks are sourced by sustainably coppicing hazel on Dartmoor. They're carefully seasoned for 18 months until they're dry enough to make a perfect 'ring' when struck, the troupe get through about 100 a year.

Beltane Border Morris are on fire. (Image: Peter Bigglestone) Beltane has been key to spreading Morris and its border style, seeding four other sides in Devon and Cornwall. The area now has the highest concentration of border dancers per head of population in the world. There are currently 43 Morris sides in Devon and Cornwall and more than half at least perform some border dances.