They’re not afraid of going backwards in Kingsbridge. Just a few feet, mind. Just enough to allow any reverse averse visitors chance to drive along the narrow roads on their way to and from the South Devon market town.
Kingsbridge is very much the hub of the South Hams. Two supermarkets, a big leisure centre and an independent cinema make it a must-visit to top up supplies or break up beach holidays.
For the locals, the town is part of the weekly routine. Folk from the wide surrounding rural area come in to do their shopping and have a good old catch-up. Earwigging these sorts of conversations - often done across roads or while standing in queues in shops run by their owners - is a lovely window into life in this well-balanced, traditional town that keeps ticking over.
Blessed with a mix of useful independent shops, twice-weekly farmers market, art galleries and regular community-run events, Kingsbridge has kept a strong sense of identity in an area popular with second homers. You can’t blame people for wanting a slice of the South Hams, but it means nearby Salcombe and Dartmouth are overrun in the summer and can feel a little soulless when the visitors have gone.
Most people are magnetically drawn to the quay, and not just because that’s where a lot of the parking is. This quiet and peaceful area of town is ideal for sitting down or taking a waterside stroll. Or a miniature train ride. The only solar-powered railway in the world – the Kingsbridge and District Light Railway – runs along the water’s edge.
It’s also the place to go crabbing. This simple and free pleasure is a great way to entertain the kids and keep the local crustaceans well fed. Rumour has it one lucky participant once caught 100 crabs in 30 minutes.
If you’re after more water (and crabs), there are loads of beautiful beaches not far out of town. South Milton Sands, Bigbury and Bantham are just a few of the local gems within a short drive, admittedly along those narrow roads again. Just think of it as good reversing practice.
There are some exciting offerings here, as well as some go-to classics. Twenty Seven (Mill Street) is an award-winning restaurant in the heart of town, run by local chef Jamie Rogers. Jamie, who was a semi-finalist in the BBC’s MasterChef: The Professionals, worked in kitchens all over the South Hams before setting up his own place here in 2018 when he was 27 years old (hence the name).
The Old Bakery (Promenade) is one of the best places to enjoy tapas in the area. The rustic eatery has a modern, Middle Eastern and Mediterranean vibe.
The Old Warehouse (Prince of Wales Rd) taproom and kitchen is a popular spot for residents and visitors, with locally brewed beer, burgers, crab sandwiches, mussels and more. It’s the home of Moonhoney Mead and they often have live music here, too.
Maha Bharat (Mill Street) is a former winner of ‘Asian Restaurant of the Year South West’ in the Asian Curry Awards. This popular establishment is well-loved. The very mention of it to my local pal made him want a Maha Bharat special chicken jalfrezi and a pint of Cobra.
The Seven Stars (Mill Street) is authentic pub food in a lovely setting.
There are some fabulous self-catering properties in and outside of town. The Boathouse (theboathousekingsbridge.co.uk) is a luxury retreat for two with views towards the estuary
Black Barn (toadhallcottages.co.uk) is hidden away down a quiet alley in the centre of Kingsbridge and sleeps up to ten. Cliff Crest is right on the banks of the estuary. It has a huge terrace and direct access to the foreshore.
Hotel-wise, stay out and come in. There are some really special luxury breaks to be had outside of town. Thurlestone Hotel (thurlestone.co.uk) has beautifully styled rooms and suites, plus a spa. There are often offers and special breaks on their website.
The four-star Soar Mill Cove Hotel (soarmillcove.co.uk) is in a stunning coastal spot and also has a spa with a spring-fed heated pool.
Lower Coombe Royal has glamping and holiday cottage options set in eight acres of gardens and woodland. They welcome dogs. See lowercoomberoyal.co.uk
MORE TO SEE
The Kingsbridge and Cookworthy Museum is housed in the town’s old grammar school building. One of the highlights here is a fascinating collection of photographs from 1870 through to the present day. The Cookworthy Room is the old schoolroom, where generations of boys carved their initials into its wood panelled walls. Kingsbridgemuseum.org.uk
Arty vibe
Velarde gallery has six major contemporary art exhibitions each year, featuring work by British and international names. For more creative inspiration go to Harbour House which brings in exhibitions alongside performances and educational activities. Check out Mayne Gallery for work to buy from some well established big names and also emerging artists.
