Even if we live near the coast, very few of us are so close that we can both go to sleep and wake up to the sounds of the sea.
Eyes closed and listening to the gentle washing of waves on the shore must be one of the most natural ways of relaxing, of letting go.
So, the nearer a hotel is to the sea the better, and you can’t get much closer than at Watersmeet Hotel in North Devon. It sits low, just up from the beach, in the fold of the land between the sandy expanse of Woolacombe beach and the legendary shipwreck sea cliffs of Mortehoe. It is a stunning location, with views down this dramatic coastline, across Woolacombe Bay to Baggy Point, and Hartland in the far distance. Much of the land around here is owned by the National Trust, so the area has escaped the unfettered building development that would otherwise have surely happened in this beautiful, wild location.
The hotel, which is privately owned, has a loyal following with its guests but also the walkers who come here and the locals, who make the most of popping in for lunch, a special afternoon tea or Sunday lunch.
It’s a well established hotel, but despite its longevity it has a very vibrant, fresh feel. The decor in the rooms is quietly contemporary, with quality furnishings and those all important details – supremely comfortable beds, luxury bedlinen, stylish bathrooms and big fluffy towels.
All but three of its 28 rooms and suites have sea views and several have balconies or terraces, from which you can revel in those views from your sun lounger, glass of fizz in hand, or watch the comings and goings on Combesgate beach, just beneath the hotel.
The hotel has some lovely lounge areas, both in and outside, including a new alfresco dining area alongside the lawn. On a hot summer’s day, with guests making the most of drinking and dining on the different terraced areas, and enjoying the swimming pool, there’s a definite Italian riviera feel.
Watersmeet Hotel was named Condé Nast Johansen’s Best Waterside Hotel for UK and Ireland 2024, which is quite an accolade, and one of which the team, some of whom are long serving members, should be very proud. Everyone is very welcoming and attentive and one of the newer staff members, head chef John Cairns, is creating some exciting dishes for the hotel’s Rocks Restaurant.
John, who was at the Michelin-starred Olive Room in nearby Ilfracombe, is well versed in the local produce that’s available and has a particular passion for seafood. So, on the specials is a chermoula mackerel dish; bang on season, it’s served whole and grilled to perfection, slightly smokey chunks of fish complimented by the Middle Eastern flavours of mint and coriander and chilli-hot giant couscous.
There’s also a short ribs croquette on the specials board, enhanced with pickled radish and a horseradish mayo.
The restaurant has its regular favourites too – wonderful fish cakes with pickled cucumber, dill and lemon mayo or there’s the king prawn and monkfish curry.
Desserts live up to the quality of the savoury dishes, especially a raspberry and pistachio souffle with lemon curd custard and raspberry sorbet. It made for a fabulous finale to the meal.
The restaurant is airy and bright, wooden floors and tables, splashes of intense blue from water glasses and oil lamps, it has a buzzy atmosphere and is a perfect place to while away an evening. The big glass windows make the most of the expansive views, out across the sea to Lundy island, silhouetted on the horizon.
As the sun sets, the rocks below us, a backdrop to the beach, glow almost red, it’s an intensely beautiful and romantic scene – the sort that will surely linger long in us and our fellow diners’ memories.
watersmeethotel.co.uk
