Approaching Teignmouth is exciting, whichever way you choose. You can come over Shaldon Bridge by car, take a scenic train ride beside the sea or arrive via the oldest passenger ferry in England. And then prepare yourself for a good time in a seaside town that still feels real. Teignmouth is surrounded by water and beaches, with all the benefits that brings. There is a distinctive holiday vibe - what with the dinosaur-themed crazy golf, the Victoria pier and lido. But life goes on here, too. This is still a port town and a key hub for the construction, agriculture and ball clay markets, handling around 460,000 tonnes of cargo each year.
The fishing trade, which grew from the Newfoundland cod industry back in the day, is ever present with trawlers heading in and out on the estuary tides and fishermen taking a break outside the cafes and food huts on Back Beach.
That’s another thing about this town. Teignmouth’s community is nicely visible and doesn’t disappear in the winter. You can visit all year round and see locals in their natural habitat, popping to the shops (there are some good independents) or going out to sea. The local rowing club is one of the largest in the UK. Some members of the River Teign Rowing Club recently completed a crossing over The Channel to raise funds for Wetwheels Torbay and Children’s Hospice South West.
Teignmouth is also home to a thriving creative community and arts scene. Laura Wall, award-winning artist, illustrator and author has a studio and gallery in town. Last year, the Teignmouth Arts Action Group (TAAG) completed the first stage of a major renovation project on its HQ in Northumberland Street. The community hub provides exhibition and workshop areas, with studio spaces planned as part of the final stage of the project.
You can see why creative types like it here. The town is visually interesting, with rows of colourful Victorian villas that have been scrubbed up in recent years. As a Victorian villa fan, I used to park myself on a seafront bench and face inland to admire the view while the kids played in The Den, an award-winning green space with a decent playground, food kiosk, football pitches and more. By the way - parents of young children might want to note that you can easily make a full day of it in Teignmouth. By time you’ve done The Den, the brilliant seafront skatepark (designed with little skaters in mind), the town’s two beaches, had some chips and doughnuts and an ice-cream, they’ll be goosed.
You can then head back to the car/train/boat, safe in the knowledge that you’ve had the full Teignmouth experience.
Food & drink
Fresh local seafood at the Crab Shack (Queen Street). It’s something of a Teignmouth institution because of the awesome menu (whole lobster – yum) and the fact you get to eat it on the beach in the sunshine. Talking of lobster, the Lobster Lounge (Northumberland Place) does an array of Mediterranean tapas/small/large plates, expertly prepared and fabulously presented. Ye Olde Jolly Sailor (Northumberland Place) is traditional and olde and in a top location on Teignmouth Quay.
The Royal Indian (also Northumberland Place) is no messin’ good curry.
LJ’s Beach Shack (Lifeboat Lane) for burgers and dirty fries and more. They have live music every weekend (weather permitting). They also offer a safe space to talk about mental health.
Halulu Bar (The Seafront) runs an after-work club, with deals on classic cocktails from 5 to 7pm. The Blue Anchor (Teign Street) and Molloys (Teign Street) are within pub crawling distance of each other.
Where to stay
The five Riviera Apartments command the best views in town. The collection of penthouses has been built on top of an historic listed building, built in 1812 and once the town’s reading and assembly rooms. It was also a hotel and a cinema. Think about that as you sip your sundowner on the balcony.
The family and pet-friendly Cliffden Hotel is a good all-rounder, set in seven-acres of gardens and just a 200-yard stroll from Teignmouth beach.
Head over the water to cosy little Shaldon for some great accommodation in this friendly fishing village. You can keep a watchful eye on Teignmouth from The Gun House, a former Secon World War watchtower which has been converted into a heavenly hideaway (available through marsdens.co.uk).
Potters Mooring is a four star AA rated 17th century family-run guesthouse on The Green in Shaldon. There are six cheerful rooms, plus a smugglers’ cottage. Views are over the bowling green or the estuary and there’s a great pub next door (The London Inn).
MORE TO DO
Take a deep dive
Teign Diving Centre runs regular PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) Discover Scuba Diving experiences. This is a two-hour taster dive with full scuba equipment in the safe confines of a swimming pool.
Hit the right note
Tunes on the Teign is an exhibition at the Teign Heritage Centre celebrating the amazing range of musicians that have performed in town, from The Beatles to the local and now globally famous band Muse.
