Centuries have passed since country parson James Woodforde wrote his celebrated diary, and Gilbert White, curate of Selborne, so inspiringly observed the natural history of his parish. Theirs was a different England, an England without cars, where the majority of villagers rode or walked to church on Sundays, people lived in harmony with the seasons and life was slower paced.

Fast forward to the 21st century and today’s country parson is a rather different species. For a start ‘he’ is very likely to be a woman – something not generally part of the tapestry in 18th-century England. And with the pastoral care of multiple parishes falling to them, today’s priests are far more likely to be whizzing between churches on four wheels.

Or are they?

In a move beautifully redolent of a bygone age, Revd Claire Curtis, curate of nine rural churches, serves her parishioners on horseback. She and Bertie, her 19-year-old, white-grey Highland pony, have become a familiar sight around the countryside of the Exe Valley Mission Community.

Claire & BertieClaire & Bertie (Image: Matt Prior, Diocese of Exeter)

Claire’s early studies were in occupational therapy, with which she worked in hospitals and communities, but ever since childhood, she felt she had a vocation towards the church. She tells me that, in recent years, it was often suggested to her that she went into the ministry. ‘Especially,’ she says, ‘when I was helping in the local churches as a layperson. One minister said, “Why haven’t you been ordained yet?” I knew I had to get on with it.’

Born into a farming family, Claire has been around animals for as long as she can remember. Prior to ordination, life was extremely full. Married to Andrew, her ‘childhood love’, her days were taken up with three sons, a smallholding, a B&B and a busy dental practice. But the call to ordination was strong and, for Claire, horses were very much a part of that calling.

‘Hearing about John Wesley riding to churches and along byways, to share the fulfilling news about Jesus, was something that deeply inspired me as a child. In my spare time, I would visit my neighbours as a young teenager on my then pony, to catch up on their news, and it always brought welcome and smiles.

‘Riding Bertie feels refreshing and ancient at the same time. It's a natural thing to do and people respond with such pleasure. “Growing in prayer, making new disciples, serving the people of Devon with joy” is the Diocese of Exeter's vision, and this feels like an important part of my ministry. People don't expect to see a woman wearing a dog collar riding a horse, and it certainly makes them smile and engage with me. There’s something very joyful and grounding about it. Riding to each church is like a preparation of the way.’

A baptism at Withleigh Church. A baptism at Withleigh Church. (Image: Andrew Curtis, Diocese of Exeter)

Although I’m sitting in Claire’s lovely rural home to interview her, her gift of listening is very evident. And there is so much laughter – joy and fun are a big part of what she does. Her husband Andrew (my dentist!) tells me that, during a baptism, a small child crawling on the floor lifted Claire’s cassock to see what was beneath – jodhpurs and riding boots!

Claire tells me that she finds riding calming, and the slow pace enables her to be aware of the places and people around her. ‘It’s easy to strike up conversations with those you happen upon, walking or working in the fields, and Bertie has a gentle unassuming manner which makes even the most nervous of souls relax near him, feeling able to give him a stroke or a pat, which he loves.

‘I took him to a school’s assembly as the children there were asking to meet him. The squeals of joy he brought were an absolute delight. I was able to tell them the story of how Bertie was an answer to prayer, when I was searching for a horse to join me - he lives at home with me, on long-term loan from a lovely lady who could see the work he has to do with me. Just by being the beautiful white mythical creature he is, he just sets the Revelation scene.’

Claire describes how Bertie is involved with her pastoral work. ‘I often ride out with other parishioners - the act of travelling in this way also helps sustain the earth. I did one pastoral visit with an elderly gentleman of 84, also riding his elderly horse. He gave me a history lesson around the old green lanes of Cruwys Morchard, such a dreamy unforgettable morning. And the two Ukrainian families who lived with us for a year found Bertie a therapeutic presence and loved to ride him.’

View from Claire's home to Withleigh Church. Claire's converted barn, with this view, makes a lovely space for Alpha courses. View from Claire's home to Withleigh Church. Claire's converted barn, with this view, makes a lovely space for Alpha courses. (Image: Simone Stanbrook-Byrne)

On a practical level, I wonder how Claire manages to cover nine parishes on horseback, the furthest of which is eight miles from home. She explains that, during services on fair-weather days, Bertie tucks into the hay net that Claire has attached to the saddle, while he waits for her outside. In winter, he has access to borrowed stables nearby. ‘He is content just to be,’ she says. ‘He carries a peaceful presence.’ She also tells me that her 12-year-old old son sometimes rides his pony to church with her and occasionally plays the church organ for services. These mother-son rides sound delightful: ‘We can smell the air and hear birds, and we just say, “this is amazing, a special moment”. It’s easy to give thanks together.

‘Bertie,’ continues Claire ‘is super slow, so, for the most distant church, I box him and park nearby, then ride to meet parishioners.’ This helps when Claire needs to take services at two different churches, as Bertie’s daily limit is about 12 miles.

Claire’s approach to her role as priest is so unusual in today’s frenetic world, I wonder how her ‘typical’ day pans out.

‘I’m up at 5.30am lighting a candle and praying. I then check the livestock on our farm. Then, after getting Sam off to school, the rhythm of mucking out and brushing Bertie somehow enables a chance to gain perspective and offer my time to God.

Claire and Bertie getting soaked at Calverleigh Church. Claire and Bertie getting soaked at Calverleigh Church. (Image: Andrew Curtis, Diocese of Exeter)

‘Much of my time is in pastoral care which involves visiting and taking, mainly elderly, folk to events provided by the church. With the best will in the world, I could not whisk them up on Bertie with me to these events, so I have to use the car.

‘As I ride, I imagine conversations with parishioners and possible outcomes, and visualise dreams for the Exe Valley as I look across the countryside and villages. I can make hands-free phone calls on horseback, and I pray ride. I pray as I approach the churches on a Sunday morning, for everyone to meet with God in a deep and meaningful way. I also sing a lot, Andrew and I have started a pop-up Exe Valley choir. There are 30 of us, and when the choir is there services are packed to bursting!’

The Wesleyan heritage and influence are ever-present for Claire, but she’s not averse to introducing technology.

‘I seek inspiration for sermons when I ride. John Wesley could read his bible or a book whilst riding. I haven’t mastered that yet - but I do listen to podcasts as I travel!’

Claire with pet sheep: Forest and his flock. Forest was a poorly lamb, hand-reared in her kitchen and now a permanent resident. Claire with pet sheep: Forest and his flock. Forest was a poorly lamb, hand-reared in her kitchen and now a permanent resident. (Image: Simone Stanbrook-Byrne)

Travelling along ancient green lanes, through the undulating, thickly hedged countryside, Claire’s mission has a timeless quality, the pastoral nature of the area echoed in the way she follows her calling.

‘Maybe others will feel encouraged to ride,’ she ponders. ‘Maybe others will feel drawn to the church. In rural ministry, being a “Riding Rev” feels so sustainable, natural, life-sharing and life-giving.’

In a hugely busy life, Claire makes this rural idyll work in her modern day. Let there be more Claires.