The waterways and tidal creeks around the estuaries of the South Hams are a delight to explore. Meandering lanes hug the water’s edge and lead to little beaches and coves and hidden villages. Don’t let the slightly scary narrow roads put you off, these areas are perfect for an adventure and there are always plenty of places to stop, rest awhile and take in the surroundings – like the Millbrook Inn at South Pool.
South Pool is down one of those winding lanes along the eastern banks of the Kingsbridge Estuary and it lies at the head of a creek. It’s popular with boating types who glide up on the water and moor at the village pontoon. The amount of time anyone arriving by boat has for exploring will depend on the tides, but I’m sure they all make a beeline for the Millbrook Inn.
The Millbrook has long been a favourite dining destination with a succession of chefs gracing its kitchen and producing top notch food. Its excellence is no doubt enhanced by the pub having direct access to some incredible produce. The Owens family which owns the Millbrook also has Fowlescombe Farm which produces organic rare breed meat along with vegetables and fruit. The farm is just 15 miles away which means super fresh, carefully grown produce arriving straight from the field.
The care and pride that must go into the farm is reflected in the sensitive way the pub was refurbished a couple of years ago, and again in last year’s renovation of the building opposite into two cottages where people can stay.
The pub is centuries old, with stone floors, nooks and crannies, and a welcoming fire. It’s a proper pub, with a proper bar and proper pub welcome but it also feels cared for and contemporary, with its simple, stripped back decor. Windows look out onto a little stream that runs right past the pub walls, a reminder of South Pool’s watery location.
Across the lane Sea and Land, the two cottages, may have been crafted from another old building, but they have a spacious and contemporary feel.
I’m in Sea and it’s a very clever reworking, covering two floors with a private garden on a higher level at the back. The second bedroom and bathroom is on the ground floor with stairs leading up to an attic upper floor, with an open plan kitchen, dining area and lounge and another bedroom and bathroom. It is fresh and bright with high ceilings, white walls, some well chosen artwork and slashes of colour provided by the furnishings – all of which creates an airy and stylish feel. Halfway up the stairs is the access to the gorgeous little private garden with room for outside eating or lounging. The garden is well tended, (you can tell it’s been created with green fingered knowledge) and filled with plants and herbs in beds and tucked in walls and paving. It’s a perfect little suntrap too.
It would be very easy to stay sitting outside, listening to the birdsong, sipping a glass of wine, but South Pool is also blessed with some lovely walks. Even just an amble down to the waterfront, crossing over the stepping stones and making your way along the creekside is pure magic. The tides bring in the boats and also wildlife, so there’s plenty to see. This is after all one of the most beautiful locations in the UK, according to The Telegraph.
It is a dreamy setting and a perfect one for a stay, especially as you have plenty to explore in such a relatively small area. The sea is not far away, and a walk along the coast path from Mill Bay reveals a number of little beaches, all overlooking Salcombe, before you turn eastwards along the dramatic cliffs towards Gara Rock. For shopping there’s Salcombe, just a ferry ride over the water and at the head of the estuary there’s Kingsbridge, an arty and foodie hotspot.
Back in South Pool, a new chapter for the Millbrook has begun, with the arrival of Jamie Rogers as executive chef. Jamie has competed in Masterchef: The Professionals and is a South West Chef of the Year; he’s also the owner of the award-winning Twenty Seven restaurant in Kingsbridge. The Millbrook will work well, giving Jamie the opportunity to develop a simpler style of menu and he’s set to make full use of its Josper indoor oven, using it to show how cooking over fire can bring an added intensity and depth of flavour to food.
There’s always a good reason to visit this area of Devon, but having such a lovely place to stay right next to such an admired dining pub ranks as one of the tops on my list.
millbrookinnsouthpool.co.uk
