These two same-but-different destinations like to live life on the edge. Nicknamed ‘Little Switzerland’, Lynton (up) and Lynmouth (down) sit surrounded by some of the most magnificent scenery available in north Devon.
Visiting this area of the world requires stamina and a good set of knees, especially if you’re planning on making your own way around. For everyone else, there’s the wonderful Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway, which connects the two locations and has been a feature here since 1890.
Passengers can glide effortlessly up and down the 862ft of steep track, with an elevation of 500ft, taking in the views and the mechanical whirring of this, the UK's only fully water powered railway and one of only three examples of its kind left in the world.
Once the excitement subsides, you’ll be ready to explore. Lynmouth is a pretty little unspoilt fishing village with a harbour, dominated by its famous Rhenish. It was built in the 1800s by General Rawdon to store salt water for bathing which was pumped into his house nearby. An electric light was added a beacon for passing ships. In 1952, it was washed away by the Lynmouth flood disaster before being rebuilt two years later. It’s called Rhenish because it is a replica of towers on the River Rhine.
The village itself is a lovely place to amble about, with a pedestrian-only high street making it easy to visit the shops and art galleries.
More of this awaits up, up and away in Lynton. Also, check out the Town Hall, a strange mixture of mock-Gothic, neo-Tudor and art nouveau design. Opened in 1900, the hall was presented to the town by publisher Sir George Newnes (his name crops up a lot around here).
Lynton also has its own cinema. It’s thought to be the smallest town in the country to have such an asset and the cosy venue has been mentioned as one of the top 50 cinemas in the UK and Ireland.
Walking is the main pastime in Little Switzerland though. Lots of visitors base themselves in Lynmouth and Lynton to make the most of one of the best things about venturing all the way here – Exmoor. The dramatic landscape is all rocky headlands, cliffs, soft green valleys and woodland - and then it meets the sea. That’s when things start to get really spectacular. The Valley of the Rocks (or Valley of Rocks), just west of Lynton, is famous for its geology, views and herd of feral goats. The Exmoor National Park Visitor Centre is next to the cliff railway and has lots of information about walks in the area.
FOOD AND DRINK
It’s quality not quantity. Lynton and Lynmouth’s offerings are concentrated into a few really good cafés, delis and restaurants. They’ll be busy in the summer, so be prepared to queue on sunny days. There’s a surprising mix, too.
The Oak Room (Lee Road, Lynton)is an award-winning tapas restaurant, combining modern and traditional dishes. Nartnapa Thai Kitchen is based at the Cottage Inn Pub in Lynbridge. Thai curries and Asian small dishes, such as salt and pepper squid are on the simple but mouth-watering menu.
Little Deli (Queen Street, Lynton) specialises in homemade treats, goodies and gifts. Look out for delicious homemade bread, Spanish magdalenas, cinnamon rolls and foccacia from Lucho Bakes. Former NHS worker Luciano Soto Rodriguez began making sourdough during lockdown and the rest is history. His products are sold in A Little of What You Fancy (same people as A Little Deli) and at other local shops.
Good pubs include the Ancient Mariner in Lynmouth Street(which has a full-size torpedo inside, just saying) and The Crown (Market Street).
WHERE TO STAY
The Sandrock Hotel (Longmead) is close to Lynton town centre and just a short walk from the Valley of Rocks.
The Rising Sun, right on the harbourside in Lynmouth is a fine choice, with a blend of modern comfort and 14th-century charm. Queen Street Lofts are two stylish, modern self-catering apartments in the heart of Lynton’s old town. Both enjoy great views over the hills and rooftops.
Loft 4 is available for immediate booking, while Loft 1 will be ready later this year. East Lyn House B&B is in an ‘ansome-looking Victorian villa on the East Lyn River. It’s a great location – good for getting to Lynmouth and some lovely local walks.
Longmead House B&B in Lynton is another Victorian gem. They’re offering a special package for walkers this year. For those of you who prefer sleeping under canvas, the Doone Valley campsite at Oaremead Farm, Malmsmead, is an ideal set-up. Here you’ll find hot showers, toilets, pubs nearby and the opportunity to book a shepherd’s hut, if preferred (always).
DID YOU KNOW?
Beach boulders: Lynmouth has two beaches, both strewn with boulders and large rocks. Lynmouth's Eastern Beach can be accessed by walking past the Manor Green after crossing the river near the Rock House or via Lyndale Bridge.
Walk to Watersmeet: This is a must-do river trek that’s easy to access from Lynmouth. The dramatic gorge and ancient woodland are in incredible surroundings.
Raft race: Lynmouth Raft Race, traditionally held in August, sees locals takes to the water in homemade and very imaginative vessels to race to the buoy and back. Some are more successful than others...
