I do love the colour green. It makes me feel nurtured and more alive to the world around me. But it’s also calming and natural.
My appreciation of green is purely personal, but I think anyone would agree that its use in the decoration of River Cottage Kitchen and Store is an excellent choice.
The cafe and shop, which opened last year, has been created out of the River Cottage headquarters, which sits on top of the hill overlooking the valley which is home to the famous River Cottage farm.
It’s easy to get to, not far off the A35 near Axminster, and there’s plenty of parking. It’s a perfect stop off after (or before) a ramble around the neighbouring Trinity Hill Nature Reserve, and ideal because you can bring your dog too.
You reach the restaurant by going through the shop area. One side of the building has big glass windows, making the most of the wonderful view. There’s a large outdoor terrace for sun lovers but inside is equally outdoorsy-feeling, thanks to those deep green painted walls, wooden panelling, simple tables and chapel chairs. On the tables, and indeed dotted throughout the building, including the shop, are pots of ferns, bringing an earthy (and green again!) freshness.
It feels wholesome and natural, yet with a menu devised by Gelf Alderson, culinary director of River Cottage, you also know the food will be innovative and exciting.
The kitchen is open every day, from 9am to 5pm, with breakfast served from 9-11.30am - which is when I pitch up.
On the menu are various options on toasted sourdough, including sausage bacon and egg or garlicky mushrooms and smoked onions or, my choice, spicy beany chachouka with poached eggs. It was packed with deep flavours of tomato, spice and herb, with a nice heat too.
There was also a barley and smoked haddock kedgeree with poached egg, as well as lighter options including granola or drop scones, fruit compotes and kefirs.
Many of the breakfast choices include River Cottage’s new range of ketchups, too tricky to choose which one to go for, as you’ll want to try them all, they include rhubarb, beetroot, mushroom and squash, as well as regular tomato.
As well as excellent coffee, there are tempting juices and soft drinks and a range of organic kombuchas, which provide a healthy kick to start the day. These fermented tea drinks are the result of a collaboration between River Cottage and Equinox Organic Kombucha, and are infused with natural flavours. The range makes you want to try them all – orchard, garden, hedge, or how about meadow, which is made with green tea, nettle, dandelion and meadowsweet?
Nearly all the ingredients used in the kitchen are organic, including all the dairy, meat and eggs and fish comes from local boats. Much is produced on the River Cottage farm as well as other local farms and market gardens, including Trill Fram, Haye Farm and Riverford.
You can’t book for the kitchen, but because it’s a busy place with a constant turnover, getting a table shouldn’t be a problem. You can while away some time in the shop which has those River Cottage specials, as used in the kitchen - the kombuchas, kefirs, yoghurts, as well as its own ciders, beer and wine. There are some lovely gift items too (soaps, T-shirts, blankets) as well as the extensive range of River Cottage books.
If I was local I'd be very tempted to pop in for breakfast on a regular basis, especially after a dog walk, and as a visitor it’s a great way to enjoy the experience and take time out to enjoy those views over east Devon. Then of course there’s also lunch - and that menu also looks very inviting...
