Donning her boots and thick winter layers, Simone Stanbrook-Byrne sets off on her mission to find walks where a cosy pub is the reward at the end…
When I first discussed this idea with our lovely ed the UK was experiencing summer temperatures like we had never had before. But by the time you read this the seasons will have turned and a cosy pub, perhaps with a welcoming fireside (or, possibly, a greener alternative) will be just what we need at the end of a bracing walk. So, pick your place, wrap up against the treachery of winter weather, be prepared for plentiful mud – and make the most of what the season has to offer.
THE WALKS
Dartmoor – the Warren House Inn
(01822 880298)
Map: OS Outdoor Leisure 28, Dartmoor 1:25 000
Start point: Various parking places shown on OS map near Warren
House Inn Grid ref: SX674809; postcode: PL20 6TA
What better place to start than at a pub where the fire hasn’t gone out for almost 180 years? In fact, it could be even longer, as when the new premises was built in 1845 it is said that smouldering peat from the old grate, where there had been a fire burning for ever, was transferred to the new building to start the fire there.
This is a place of traditional rustic charm with hearty food to fuel you. In very bad winters snow can render the place inaccessible for many weeks – indeed, for three months in 1963! Not a bad place to be snowed in.
To walk on Dartmoor requires preparation and common sense: the weather must be clear with good visibility and please avoid wandering into bogs and disused mine working. GPS and/or a compass are very useful as the paths are not always distinct underfoot, so you need to keep your wits about you. Mists and rain descend on you very fast.
The moor offers vast miles of walking through an historic landscape.
There’s a good four-mile route starting from Bennett’s Cross, a medieval waymark and boundary marker shown on the map just north of the Warren House Inn. The Two Moors Way heads east to a small road, and to the east of this road paths lead up to Hookney Tor, from whence you can drop down (southish) to visit the Bronze Age settlement of Grimspound. Ponder its antiquity. From Grimspound head west back to the small road, then continue west past Headland Warren Farm. Follow the bridleway shown on the map, heading generally westwards through a prehistoric landscape with evidence of more recent mining heritage. At the junction of bridleways (near grid ref: SX682809) continue westwards to reach the road near the inn.
Exmoor – the Hunter’s Inn, Heddon Valley
(01598 763230)
Map: OS Outdoor Leisure 9, Exmoor 1:25 000
Start Point: Outside the Hunter’s Inn – car parking is shown on the map, along the lane through the valley: Grid ref: SS6550480; nearby postcode (it covers a wide area): EX31 4PY
Those of us who enjoy an open fire or wood burner are probably feeling concerned about the carbon cost of this form of heating. The Hunter’s Inn does have an open fire but the National Trust, which bought the inn in 2018, has recently installed a ground source heat pump to augment the heating, saving an estimated 48 tonnes of carbon per year.
The pub is great and the walking in the area quite superb – as with Dartmoor, you need a fine-weather winter’s day to enjoy the views, and not too much wind, to be safe on what can be quite edgy paths. There are lots of walks to choose from: one possibility is to walk along the River Heddon towards the coast. Part-way along the valley join the South West Coast Path heading east to Woody Bay, then return along the higher bridleway – a strenuous and hilly walk of seven-and-a-half miles, during which I once encountered the astonishing beauty of a frozen waterfall. If you fancy an easier option then just amble along the valley for a mile to enjoy the coastal environs of Heddon’s Mouth.
Mid Devon – The Lamb, Silverton
(01392 860272)
Map: OS Explorers 114 Exeter and the Exe Valley 1:25 000
Start point: Coach Road, Silverton. Postcode EX5 4JY. Grid ref SS959031
A lovely, recently refurbed and friendly village pub with squashy chairs near the fire and a good menu.
This is a walk of just over four miles that, at its highest point, offers superb views – to Dartmoor, Exmoor and the sea – so you need to be prepared for some long uphills on the outward journey. On the plus side, most of the return trip is downhill on a quiet country road, avoiding winter mud.
From Coach Road take the footpath that runs up beside the school. Follow this towards Livingshayes and then onwards to Greenslinch (there’s a new footpath layout on the way not shown on the OS map, at grid ref SS9654034 – keep ahead until you reach Greenslinch). From this hamlet take the ancient green lane that climbs steadily uphill to the ridge road. Turn left along here to reach Christ Cross, one of the English ‘Marilyns’ – a hill with a relative height of at least 150m. I’ve attempted this lane in the deepest of snowy winters! From Christ Cross follow the road downhill towards Silverton. It will lead you straight back to the heart of the village and The Lamb Inn on Fore Street. If you prefer, you can leave the road on the footpath after Roach Farm, for an alternative view-rich descent into the village, arriving back at the school. From here,
The Lamb is reached by following the footpath opposite the school, and then Parsonage Lane, which leads you straight there.
East Devon – The Tuckers Arms, Dalwood
(01404 881342)
Map: OS Explorer 116, Lyme Regis & Bridport 1:25 000
Start point: Village centre, near the war memorial. Post code: EX13 7EJ. Grid ref: ST247004
The twelfth century Tuckers Arms is a fabulous, thatched inn with inglenook fireplace – and an eye-catching array of ‘miniatures’ in the back bar.
The suggested walk from here is a fairly hilly five-and-a-half miles and starts with some road walking to get to the footpath to the north of the village (shown on OS map near Baggaton Farm). This rises to the road from which you join the bridleway going up Horner Hill. At the bridleway junction (grid ref: ST250018) keep right, soon passing ruined cottages.
The first time I came this way I chanced upon a team working on consolidating these old buildings, which were inhabited until the early-mid 20th century. They are now preserved as monuments to a lifestyle long-gone when, during the 1930s, a horse-drawn baker’s cart would deliver bread to the occupants. When you reach the road turn right and follow it south-east until you reach the turning on the left to Yarty Farm.
Beyond the complex of buildings join the footpath to Beckford Bridge, which is just wide enough for your packhorse. From the bridge head south-east, following either the footpath, or the track called Dalwood Lane, back towards the village. When you reach the road go left, and soon another footpath heads right, taking you back to the village centre.
The South Hams – The Ship Inn, Noss Mayo
(01752 872387)
Map: OS OL 20 South Devon 1:25 000
Start point: Noss Mayo village (there is a car park near the tennis courts). Grid ref: SX547474. Nearby postcode: PL8 1EG
Much as The Ship Inn is a fabulous al fresco pub in summer, it has a really inviting and interesting interior for the cold months, welcoming you in. A good place to partake; an easy place to linger….
I have many favourite South Hams walks and this five-miler is one of them. From the tennis courts follow the lane, then the footpath past Brooking Down Wood, all the way to the coast. Turn right, sea to your left, and follow the South West Coast Path – an absolutely glorious stretch of walking that eventually brings you in from the coast to reach Ferry Wood. A permissive path then follows Newton Creek to bring you back to Noss Mayo. Lovely!
Note: these walks are précised suggestions, so make sure you have the correct map – and check opening times of pubs before setting off.
Simone Stanbrook-Byrne is the author of a series of walking guides, including Circular Walks in East Devon
